Mekong Wagtail

A boat trip along the mighty Mekong River was extremely pleasant and a great way to start the day, especially with Irrawaddy River Dolphins coming in close to our two boats. At least four animals were playing within 10 metres of us, and several times their heads cleared the surface and we had great views of their piercing eyes. In fact we spent ages observing these gentle creatures, but not before securing the main target species here. In 2001 a new species of bird was first described to science, Mekong Wagtail. And we were privileged to find at least 3 birds amongst the numerous small islands in the middle of this huge river with a male singing its distinctively different song from the top of a bush. With a colony of Pale Sand Martins breeding in a sand bank giving us reasonable views as they came in to their nesting holes we were finished here, so headed over to a different area of rice fields from the previous afternoon. The heat was on in more than one sense as we needed Asiatic Golden Weaver and fortunately it didn’t take too long to find a breeding plumaged male perched next to a partially built nest in a tree on the opposite side of the fields. Through the scope we had great views and it really glowed like a yellow light bulb against the green foliage. So that was it and we had to leave and set out on the drive to Phnom Penh for our final meal together before a few of the group head back to the UK tomorrow, whilst the rest of us continue on to Fraser’s Hill in Malaysia.

Irrawaddy River Dolphin

Irrawaddy River Dolphin

Mekong Wagtail

Bar-bellied Pitta

A return to the ONP Trail early this morning started off quietly except for our sighting of a Heart-spotted Woodpecker as we made our way to the breakfast point. We then sat down just off the trail and watched and waited and just listened to the sounds of the forest coming to life: Germain’s Peacock-pheasant, Orange-breasted Trogon, Banded Broadbill, Asian Paradise-flycatcher, and Pale-legged Leaf-warbler amongst others were all calling. So we decided to split up and were able to cover more ground. A pair of Large Scimitar-babblers were particularly showy for this usually very shy species and the fabled Orange-necked Partridge was also heard, but it was our sighting of a male Bar-bellied Pitta flying along the path in front of us that stole the show. That was until it hopped across the path in front of us and freezing in the shadows allowing us to scrutinize its intricate and beautiful plumage for a couple of minutes before melting away. Further brief glimpses followed but never out in the open, so we returned to the lodge where we had a tasty lunch before driving a couple of hours to Kratie. The rice fields on the edge of town were pretty busy with numerous Yellow Bitterns flying over the marsh, a brief Cinnamon Bittern, Watercock, White-browed and Ruddy-breasted Crakes, Black-crowned Night-heron, Lesser Coucal, Dusky Warbler, and several Pallas’s Grasshopper-warblers also being seen. 

Bar-bellied Pitta

Seima

We birded the ONP Trail for most of the morning, after firstly visiting the pond near the Research Centre where several Silver-backed Needletails were coming down to drink. There was also a Drongo Cuckoo perched up nicely in the scope, Laced Woodpecker, Chestnut-capped Babbler in the grass and Vinous-breasted Starling on the telegraph wires. We hit the trail a little later and turned up some really good birds including Scaly-crowned Babbler, Orange-breasted Trogon, male Banded Kingfisher,  Puff-throated Babbler, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Great Slaty Woodpecker, and had a calling Germain’s Peacock-pheasant that was so close but remained invisible until it dashed across the path. After lunch the group crashed out so I walked the trail again and despite the heat called in a Bar-bellied Pitta which initially was calling maybe 100m away, so i walked off the trail and sat down amongst the ants and had the wee beastie circle me in full view before disappearing - unbelievable and my first bbp! The trail was very birdy and Sophoan and I also had 3 Large Scimitar-babblers, White-bellied Erpornis and Pale-legged Leaf-warbler in the hour and a half we had spare before meeting up with the group.  Sophoan also called in Orange-necked Partridge which remained hidden despite being extremely close. Then we went with the group and drove further up into the forest and found Blue-winged Leafbird, Collared Falconet, Great Hornbill, and finished up with 3 female Green Peafowl – real wild birds compared to those plastic things in northern Thailand! Also heard Banded Broadbill and Great Eared Nightjar as well.

Kampong Thom to Seima Protected Forest

A quick check of the marsh this morning produced all the usual goodies including Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns,  3 Bengal Floricans, Pied Harrier, Streaked Weaver and a confiding Lanceolated Warbler. We then left on the long drive to Seima Protected Forest where we arrived by late afternoon and just had enough time to bird along the road. Fortunately we had a couple views of Red-vented Barbet, as well as Vernal Hanging-parrot, a pair of Golden-crested Mynas and a cracking pair of Collared Falconets. We finished the day with Great Eared-Nightjar flying along the road straight towards us before returning to the lodge.

Kampong Thom

The early risers headed out to the main road this morning and followed a quiet forest track where we found a number of new birds that included Indian Cuckoo, Large Hawk-cuckoo, Swinhoe’s Minivet and White-browed Fantail. As well as seeing some other goodies such as a Chinese Francolin scurrying across the road, Black-headed Woodpecker, Plaintive Cuckoo and Burmese Shrike amongst others. After returning to the lodge and getting a nice breakfast we set out on a three hour drive to the town of Kampong Thom where following lunch and a siesta we drove out into the wide open landscape of rice fields and spent the first hour scanning from a small shelter. A male Bright-headed Cisticola was particularly obliging  and our first Red Avadavats were joined by Scaly-breasted Munias and Baya Weavers. Both male Pied Harrier and Eastern Marsh Harriers were quartering the fields, and several Oriental Pratincoles flew overhead. Further along the bumpy track we reached a small marsh and saw Yellow Bittern, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Watercock, Pintail Snipe, Bluethroat, Black-browed and Oriental Reed-warblers, and plenty of Striated Grassbirds. It was a shame the sun had to set as there were plenty of birds to watch and I personally look forward to returning early tomorrow, hopefully getting to grips with a Siberian Rubythroat that gave us the run around today.

Black-headed Woodpecker

Tmatboey - 1st March

Another early start saw us driving along another bumpy forest track, this time to a nice riparian forest along a river where we spent the next few hours scanning from an open area. We hadn’t been here long when one of our local guides came rushing back and told us of a Pale-capped Pigeon feeding in a fruiting tree nearby so we dashed over and sure enough – there it was. An Oriental Pied Hornbill and Green Imperial-pigeon joined in the fun as well. Then an Orange-breasted Trogon began calling and played cat-and-mouse before flying in high over our heads. This spot also had a confiding Abbott’s Babbler calling away from a bare branch and a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher.  Back at the viewing area we enjoyed a really good picnic breakfast and 3 Violet Cuckoos that seemed to be in the process of some type of display as they chased each other across the treetops in front of us. There was also a Stork-billed Kingfisher present along the river, a couple of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, Green-billed Malkoha, Two-barred Warbler and several Van Hasselt’s Sunbirds amongst others. Our afternoon walk was pretty quiet save for another Brown Fish-owl, Brown Hawk-owl, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Woolly-necked Stork, Radde’s Warbler, and 3 Giant Ibis. As we walked back to the vehicles we finally nailed a Burmese Shrike that flew around us calling to add to the Rufescent Prinia and Changeable Hawk-eagle seen earlier – our only new additions to the list this afternoon. A pair of Collared Scops-owls were calling in the evening as we drove back to the lodge, but despite a lot of legwork trying to find them they just didn’t cooperate.

Abbott's Babbler

Tmatboey - 29th Feb 2012

It was a very early start at 4.30am in order to be at the viewing blind well before daybreak to see Giant Ibis. As we waited for the sun to rise the sounds of the forest were all around us and yet even before it was daylight we had 3 Giant Ibis in the scope, albeit in silhouette. Just as the light became good the ibis departed and we hoped for better views later in the day. As it turned out we found another one perched on top of a large dead tree in perfect sunlight an hour or so later and were able to watch it at leisure. However, before that we walked a short distance to a clearing and had a great packed breakfast seeing Common Flameback and a brief Rufous Woodpecker along the way. Several Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers were seen as well and continuing the ‘woody’ theme both White-bellied Woodpecker and a party of 4 very active Great Slaty Woodpeckers were also seen well. A female White-rumped Falcon was a nice find and was fully appreciated through the scope, especially as we took a couple of days to find one on our tour last year. A circuitous route through the forest then produced a pair of Greater Flamebacks, followed a little later by a cooperative Banded Bay Cuckoo calling from the top of a tree and just before reaching our waiting vehicles a Black Baza was scoped in a tree. We then drove back to the lodge arriving mid-morning and because of the heat decided to just ‘chill out’ here and wait before venturing out again in the afternoon. Our first stop then led us to a day roosting Spotted Wood Owl which looked down on us nonchalantly from its hiding place in a leafy tree. Despite the local village guide tempting us closer to get a good photo we declined as we did not wish to disturb the bird – something other groups should heed! A little later as we joined the tarmac road we screeched to a halt as in a tall tree an adult White-shouldered Ibis was seen feeding a well grown youngster in a nest, and we also found a group of Velvet-fronted Nuthatches here as well. Further along we walked through a nice patch of forest which was a little quiet although we picked up several Blossom-headed Parakeets, Common and Large Woodshrikes, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, and a few other common species. Back at the vehicles we had some snacks and spotted a Chinese Francolin across the clearing perched thirty feet up a tree and everyone enjoyed fine looks through the scope. We ended the day with a Large-tailed Nightjar flying past us in the spotlight with a background of spectacular lightning flashes before heading back to the lodge.

Giant Ibis

White-shouldered Ibis

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker

Florican Grasslands to Tmatboey

We headed out of Siem Reap early today and drove to an area known as the Florican Grasslands, a vast open plain which protects suitable habitat for Bengal Florican. As we drove along the bumpy track a Small Buttonquail was seen feeding right out in the open and despite all of us exiting the vehicles in a hurry it remained totally unconcerned by our presence – a most remarkable sighting. Whilst watching this little cracker a pair of Bengal Floricans strode across the plain in front of us a few hundred metres away. What an amazing double whammy! We watched in awe as they made their way across the grassland at a sedate pace and were on view for at least half an hour. Then we walked over to some scrub bordered ponds and spent quite a while trying to call in Manchurian Reed-warbler which did come in but never showed well. Care had to be taken as several Black-browed Reed-warblers were also present. Other goodies seen around the pools included Woolly-necked Stork, Zitting Cisticola, Oriental Skylark, Bluethroat and Striated Grassbird as well as some other previously seen species. Walking back to the vehicles a Savanna Nightjar was flushed from cover and a Lanceolated Warbler shot up out of the grass and flew under one of the cars. Leaving here we drove to Tmatboey, arriving around 4pm having stopped to view a mixed flock along the way which held Eurasian Hoopoe, both Common and Large Woodshrikes, Neglected Nuthatch, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Small Minivet, Large Cuckooshrike and Common Flameback, with an obliging Brown Prinia seen perched on top of a tall grass stem and with Crested Treeswifts flying overhead.. Upon arrival at the lodge we quickly dumped our gear into the rooms and then headed out into the forest in search of White-shouldered Ibis. The first place we checked drew a blank although we’d seen a pair of Brown Fish-owls, Lesser Adjutant, Red-billed Blue Magpie and Indochinese Bushlark but as we walked through the forest to a roost site, Sophoan spotted two White-shouldered Ibis perched at the top of a tall dead tree in the distance. So we scoped them for ages until the light faded, also seeing Grey-capped Woodpecker and Golden-fronted Leafbird, and after hearing a Collared Scops-owl in the distance returned to the lodge.

Small Buttonquail

Cambodia - Ang Traepang Thmor

We spent the day at Ang Traepeng Thmor which is a huge area of low lying fields, marshes, open forest and a huge reservoir which is home to a wide selection of very good species. We began with the usual views of several Lanceolated Warblers as they fled from cover as we walked along the ditches near the road, and one would occasionally offer a few seconds glimpse before it scurried in mouse-like fashion into cover. Moving on we had Pintail Snipe, Spotted Redshank, Bluethroat, and a nice male Plain-backed Sparrow perched beside a pair of Zebra Doves on the telegraph wires, whilst overhead Red-throated Pipits called as they flew, the first of many Oriental Pratincoles appeared and a cracking male Pied Harrier flew past us. We took our packed breakfast overlooking a marsh and were served up a few Sarus Cranes in the distance, along with loads of Asian Openbills and Painted Storks in a feeding frenzy some distance away. After picking up our local guides from the Wildlife Conservation Society HQ where we saw our first White-browed Crake and Plaintive Cuckoo, we made our way towards a nice open patch of forest and along the way found Green-billed Malkoha, Thick-billed Warbler, a pair of Greater Painted Snipes out in full view next to a Watercock in a roadside marsh, as well as a Spotted Owlet. A little later we found a small herd of the endangered Eld’s Deer, and at the same place a fine male Pied Harrier gave even better views than earlier. By now it was getting really warm and raptors were much in evidence, so adding to numerous Eastern Marsh Harriers we had a couple of Greater Spotted Eagles, Black and Black-shouldered Kites, as well as what may well have been an Indian Spotted Eagle – a very rare bird in Cambodia. Possibly the best bird of the morning was the confiding Spot-breasted Woodpecker, a relatively recent split from Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker. Returning to HQ for lunch and a bit of a rest, along with some very bad old tunes from Bennie Hill and George Formby we set out again in the afternoon and checked out a huge marsh full of both jacanas and Black-backed Swamphens, and where flocks of Lesser Whistling-ducks and Comb Ducks flew around after being disturbed by the harriers. Also here were Pied Fantail, a pair of confiding Oriental Reed-warblers and one or two Dusky Warblers. Other species seen today included Cotton Pygmy-goose, Red Collared-dove, White-throated and Pied Kingfishers, Baya Weaver and Scaly-breasted Munia amongst others. Finally back out in the wide open landscape of dried rice paddies and arable fields 8 Sarus Cranes strode majestically across the landscape with a setting sun behind them to round off a fine day’s birding. 

This will be the last post for a few days as we leave very early tomorrow to Tmatboey and a secluded lodge where we hope to see White-shouldered and Giant Ibis amongst others....

Eld's Deer

Spot-breasted Woodpecker