Bolivia - Los Volcanes

A rather slow morning’s birding along the trails began with a Chestnut-tipped Toucanet near the lodge, followed by very brief views of Amethyst Woodstar. As we entered the trails it began to rain but this didn’t deter us and we had Black-goggled Tanager, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Tropical Pewee, brief Yungas Manakin, Masked Trogon and Plain Antvireo. A pair of Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaners were feeding along the river and a Channel-billed Toucan called from the treetops. As we slowly headed back a White-backed Fire-eye gave outstanding views, and Ochre-faced Spinetail was typically elusive and Streaked Xenops and was also seen. 

Masked Trogon

Over lunchtime and during heavy rain we had a flock in a big tree across the river which held a pair of lovely Blue-browed Tanagers, Yellow-olive and Pale-edged Flycatchers, Rough-legged Tyrannulet and White-winged Becard along with some commoner species. The tree outside our rooms held a White-bellied Hummingbird and a probable Sapphire-spangled Emerald as well. With dark clouds overhead it wasn’t long before the rain came back after a short break, so in the meadow we had a Masked Yellowthroat, a flock of Hooded Siskins and a Giant Cowbird. 

Los Volcanes

Walking along the dirt road it was very frustrating as we had to take shelter from several heavier than normal downpours but we still managed Squirrel Cuckoo, White-necked Thrush, Two-banded Warbler, and Swainson’s Thrush. 

White-backed Fire-eye

So by now we had had enough and walked back to the lodge and sure enough the weather cleared up! So after a bit of phaffing we decided to return to this morning’s trails – a brilliant move as it turned out. First of all a startlingly bright crimson White-winged Tanager was scoped at the top of a tree and then a random piece of good fortune saw everyone get Grey Tinamou onto their lists! It was quite funny really, as whilst the others were struggling with a manakin I walked around the next bend in the trail and BANG!! there was the tinamou. John was nearby so i motioned to him to come over and we followed it along the trail, and the stupid bird didn't have the gumption to run off into the forest. So I raced back and got everybody else who then legged it along the trail in hot pursuit of one of the dumbest birds on the planet. Amazingly, they all caught up with the bird which had criss-crossed several trails and didn't stray off into the forest. So I took the short cut back to the lodge and not only bumped into the same individual or another Grey Tinamou but also had Brown Tinamou as well. Not too shabby huh! 

Bolivia - Day 3

Ok been without wifi for a few days so can post a few things now.....

Another 4.30am breakfast and drive back to Santa Cruz airport this morning, but we weren’t flying. Instead we patrolled the surrounding area from the coach in search of Red-winged Tinamou, which sometimes feeds out in the open along the approach road. After a few minutes we picked up a bird feeding at the edge of some tall grass and on closer inspection it turned out to be a Darwin’s Nothura, a most unexpected bonus! 

Darwin's Nothura

Darwin's Nothura

In fact we found another couple in the same area as well, as we continued our tinamou search. With nothing much happening we decided to head out into the vast expanse of grassland, and this proved to be a very good move as a number of good birds were discovered. A Great Pampa-finch was perched up in a spindly bush despite the near gale-force winds, Upland Sandpiper, Nacunda Nighthawk, Buff-necked Ibis, White-tailed Hawk and Red-breasted Blackbird also put in an appearance as well. Eventually, after a longish walk across the grassland we had several flight views of at least 4 Red-winged Tinamous before leaving and driving to the Botanical Gardens. 

Three-toed Sloth

Upon arrival a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth was found walking across a flower bed and we had the most amazing views, but it was only when it began climbing a nearby tree did we realise it was carrying a baby which was clinging to its belly! At the lake we saw Anhinga, Amazon Kingfisher, Green-backed Heron and Black-crowned Night-heron. Whist nearby, Red-crested Finch, Crested Oropendola, Variegated Flycatcher, Black-backed Grosbeak and Picui Ground-dove were found. The trail then took us into some decent gallery forest and then more drier thorn scrub where we finally found a Bolivian Slaty-Antshrike that performed very well for several minutes at point-blank range. A nearby Plain Tyrannulet was less appealing and a Fawn-breasted Wren only slightly better! 

Bolivia Slaty-Antshrike

The walk out produced Red-crested Cardinal, Creamy-bellied Thrush and the rather incongruous sighting of a Thrush-like Wren feeding a young Shiny Cowbird in its nest. From here we drove towards our next base at Los Volcanes, stopping en-route for some cold drinks and to eat our picnic lunch. But I don’t think anything could have prepared us for the amazing view as we approached the turn off to the lodge. 

Los Volcanes

Huge sandstone pillars surrounded a small grassy area far below us in the valley where we could just see the lodge – such an impressive sight. So we loaded our luggage into two jeeps and set off walking down the very steep dirt track, leaving our coach behind and birded the first section of hillside. It was admittedly quiet but we picked up Mitred Parakeet, Slaty Elaenia, Swainson’s Thrush, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Two-banded Warbler and Plush-crested Jay. Once down at the lodge we had some time to take in the scenery and enjoyed a superb Military Macaw flying around us, as well as a huge Andean Condor soaring over majestically. 

Toco Toucan

Black-chested Buzzard-eagle

A few Blue-fronted Parrots posed nicely for us in the treetops, a group of at least 8 Toco Toucans moved through the trees nearby, several Black-chested Buzzard-eagles soared around the cliffs and were mobbed at one point by a Cliff Flycatcher. A little later a White-tipped Swift flew over, as did a King Vulture to end the day nicely….....  

Rufescent Screech-owl

Well until a Rufescent Scops-owl was called in and landed right in front of us after our excellent pizza dinner!

Bolivia 2nd Day

After a great night’s sleep everyone assembled for a 4.30am breakfast (well we were in bed before 9pm last night!) before driving jus a few minutes away and spending most of the morning birding from a sandy track through some good forest. It was great to get excellent scope views of a Gilded Hummingbird perched on a telegraph wire for several minutes after yesterdays brief show. As we watched this little gem, a pair of Lettered Aracaris flew into a nearby Cecropia tree and again the scope came in handy. Just behind us a narrow trail led into a clearing in the forest and we eventually lured in a stunning male Band-tailed Manakin. The same spot was also good for White-backed Fire-eye, with one bird circling us several times before giving himself up! As we returned to the main path a pair of White-eyed Parakeets showed well in a tree close by, although we’d get even better views later in the morning. Another side trail just ahead produced Blue-crowned Trogon and Amazonian Motmot, Golden-crowned Warbler, and a tricky Flammulated Pygmy-tyrant. By now the temperature was beginning to soar and with that the raptors appeared, with a nice close trio of Hook-billed Kite, Grey-headed Kite and Plumbeous Kite all passing overhead in quick succession. Beside us in a scrubby patch a pair of Chivi (Red-eyed) Vireos were feeding on berries and Silver-beaked Tanager and Blue Dacnis also put in an appearance. Continuing along another path a Reddish Hermit didn’t really show at all, but Creamy-bellied Thrush, Masked Tityra and more Grey-crowned Warblers were all crowd pleasers. 

Golden-crowned Warbler

So eventually we reached the coach and set off along a bumpy, dirt road for the next couple of hours and stopped when we saw something. First up was a pair of Blue-winged Parrotlets perched on some telegraph wires which allowed a close approach as they may have had a nest in a termite mound at the top of a telegraph post. 

Blue-winged Parrotlet

A Thrush-like Wren was then found just across the road  and a Roseate Spoonbill flew over. 

Thrush-like Wren

A fluke finding of a Common Potoo by Miguel was possibly the highlight of the morning and what stunning views we were treated to! With Grey-necked Wood-rail, Solitary Sandpiper, American Swallow-tailed Kite, Cocoi Heron and an Osprey to finish off the morning session we headed back to the lodge for another nice meal and siesta.

Common Potoo

In the afternoon, we searched a different forested road and came up with a fine calling White-throated Toucan, Black-tailed Trogon, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Black-fronted Nunbird and a Crowned Slaty-flycatcher. 

Bolivia - The First Day!

Due to poor wifi service and human error (!) this is a belated first day post.....!

Following a lengthy flight via Miami and a lengthy delay we eventually arrived in Santa Cruz some 4 hours behind schedule. This meant that we couldn’t bird the Botanical Gardens until a few days time and instead drove north towards our lodge for the next couple of nights at Buena Vista. It’s always extremely exciting to be in a new country and have a long list of potential lifers on offer almost immediately. So we began with a quick check around the airport perimeter for Red-winged Tinamou but it was just too hot, so we didn’t linger.

Burrowing Owls

However, just along the road a pair of Burrowing Owls posed nicely, and we saw the first of many Chopi Blackbirds and Southern Lapwings, plus a few distant Fork-tailed Flycatchers. Further on a roadside pool warranted our next stop as some largish shapes proved to be a group of White-faced Whistling-ducks plus a couple of Brazilian Teals. The scope was handy to identify a couple of shorebirds skulking at the far end, which turned out to be one each of Solitary and Pectoral Sandpiper. Then a pair of Sayaca Tanagers flew in and landed on the fence wire, a Rufous Hornero walked past them and a Wattled Jacana posed on the bank as well. Continuing our drive we had plenty of Southern Caracaras, a few Yellow-headed Caracaras, both Black and Turkey Vultures, Purplish Jay, Picui Ground-dove, a close Limpkin, Guira Cuckoo and immature Snail Kite.

Greater Rhea

We made another stop beside a field for our first group of 5 Greater Rheas, and we’d see plenty more along the way this morning. A large pool then caused us a rush of excitement as a stately Maguari Stork was stood in the middle, and then a Savanna Hawk flew in and a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture appeared close by.

Maguari Stork

We reached our lodge by early afternoon and whilst waiting for lunch we took the opportunity to scan the surrounding area from the veranda. A pair of Rusty-margined Flycatchers were quite active in the shade of some Palm trees, whilst it was apparent there was a heavy southwards movement of Eastern Kingbirds, with small flocks passing overhead all afternoon. A Short-tailed Hawk was scoped nearby, Rufous Horneros patrolled the lawns, and a Streaked Flycatcher was also seen. After a wonderful lunch and a short rest we drove to a nearby area and birded from the quiet road. We did really well with Blue-headed Parrot, Dusky-headed and White-eyed Parakeets and several Chestnut-fronted Macaws flying over. We also had Roadside Hawk, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, and lots of Yellow-headed Caracaras to bump up our raptor list.

Chestnut-eared Aracari

A pair of Fork-tailed Woodnymphs appeared at the same time as a Gilded Hummingbird, and at the same spot a pair of Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers flew in, a Chestnut-eared Aracari was scoped in a Cecropia tree and a Black-billed Thrush flew onto some power lines.

Southern Screamers

We finished the day with Southern Screamers, Laughing Falcon and Buff-necked Ibis to round off a very good introduction to Bolivia’s vast birdlife.