NE Brazil Day 3 - Quixadá - Serra de Araripe

We had a quick walk around the grounds of the lodge seeing a few new birds such as Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Glittering-belling Emerald, and a flyover Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture.

Leaving here we drove for a good 5 hours, stopping beside a decent sized lake where we saw our first Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and Muscovy Ducks, as well as Cocoi Heron, Striated Heron, Purple Gallinule, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, and quite a few commoner species. 

Masked Duck - phonescoped

On the other side of the road a Dark-billed Cuckoo posed nicely and we were surprised and elated to see a White-naped Xenopsaris fly into the same tree. Scanning from the same spot also revealed Brown-crested Flycatcher, White-throated Seedeater, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Savanna Hawk, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Grey Pileated Finch, and a stunning endemic Campo Troupial.

An hour later we pulled off the main road and drove for quite a while along a dirt track to our lodge. This place was a little rustic but was situated in the middle of nowhere. There were some feeders here with stacks of endemic Red-cowled Cardinals coming down, as well as endemic Pale Baywings and Shiny Cowbirds. 

Pale Baywing

Red-cowled Cardinal

After a siesta we walked along the trails and out into the Caating habitat. Close to the lodge we scored with a pair of Stripe-backed Antbirds and a pair of endemic Red-shouldered Spinetails. There was also a pair of Great Antshrikes here and despite the dense habitat everyone managed to see these birds. Nearby we saw both Lesser and Greater Wagtail-Tyrants in the same open area – both of which are due to be split in the near future. Continuing our walk we found Lined Seedeater, a Rufescent Tiger-Heron eating a huge frog, Hooded Tanager, and best of all a group of stunning endemic Scarlet-throated Tanagers. Initially only seeing a flock of females we eventually had a male fly in to the tree in front of us. 

Rufescent Tiger-Heron

Scanning from beside a large lake was good with White Woodpecker, Western Osprey, Snail Kite, Limpkin, Neotropic Cormorant, and White-winged Swallow all being new additions to our list. Walking back to the lodge we saw a few Masked Ducks in a small pool, both Green-backed and Crested Becards in the same tree and an impressive flock of endemic White-bellied Seedeaters.

White-bellied Seedeaters

We ended the day with a close perched Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture at the lodge, quaffed a few beers and watched several Least Nighthawks flying overhead.

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture

NE Brazil Day 2

We set off at first light to walk another trail through yet more excellent forest and the first bird of the day was a Red-cowled Cardinal perched by the minibus. We had just started along the trail when a Pale-legged Hornero appeared and shortly after seeing this we began a protracted but ultimately frustrating battle with an Ochre-backed Woodpecker. It showed several times but never out in the open, leaving most of the group with untickable views.  So moving on we saw Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Common Waxbill, Caatinga Puffbird, Blue-winged Parrotlet, Orange-headed Tanager and Grey-headed Spinetail all quite well despite the low cloud and dull visibility. 

Blue-winged Parrotlet

Caatinga Puffbird

A Sooty-fronted Spinetail skulked low down in some bushes, a Plain Antvireo played hard to get, but a male Band-tailed Manakin showed very well. A Gray-lined Hawk flew around the hillside, and the next section of trail produced a Gray Elaenia that came in to check us out, there were further views of Ceara Gnateater, a stunning Red-billed Scythebill showed really well, Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper would have blotted the sun out if it was indeed out, a few Burnish-buff Tanagers appeared, followed by a Large Elaenia, and the action never slowed. 

Ceara Gnateater

We did battle with Ochre-cheeked Spinetail once again but this time it actually showed at eye-level for a little while, and on the return a male Violaceous Euphonia was perched next to a female Purple-throated Euphonia and a pair of Little Woodpeckers fed beside the path.

After breakfast we left and drove some to hours to Quixada, driving through a scenery of Caatinga with low scrub and bushes. Species such as Savanna Hawk appeared and at a lake we scoped approx. 7 Masked Ducks amongst some White-faced Whistling-Ducks. At least 3 Southern Lapwings were also seen, as well as a pair of Yellow-chinned Spinetails. And then, after a ten minute drive we were driving up onto an escarpment amidst dry, arid caatinga and watching a pair of Pygmy Nightjars at their day roost beside the swimming pool of our hotel! There was also a flock of Biscutate Swifts flying over the hillside and a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle as well. Brazil rocks!

Pygmy Nightjar

After a little siesta we walked along a trail and found Scaled Doves to be common, a pair of Common Tody-Flycatchers, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Variable Oriole and a pair of nesting Crested Becards. Luckily we dallied to watch the cuckoo as just then a pair of endemic White-browed Guans were spotted feeding across the pond and gave great views in the scope, along with endemic White-naped Jay and some White-tipped Doves. Walking up the hill we had several views of the endemic Ochre-backed Woodpecker, as well as Grey Pileated Finch, a pair of awesome Black-bellied Antwrens and a Rufous-browed Peppershrike. Scope views 

of the endemic Cactus Parakeet followed as we walked back down the track and just around the corner a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl stared down at us from some bamboo. We walked to the edge of the escarpment and scoped a pool below where several Least Grebes could be seen and a Savanna Hawk was seen by all. The steep road down was productive with White-winged Becardand Greenish Elaenia in the same tree.

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

The open fields and bushes were alive with birds. A mad half an hour produced White-browed Meadowlarks singing from exposed perches, endemic Caatinga Cacholotes were obvious, Chalk-browed Mockingbird and a Green-barred Woodpecker posed on some fence posts, a flock of endemic White-throated Seedeters were scoped, endemic Pale Baywings flew into some bushes in front of us, a Grassland Sparrow sang from a sparse bush and a pair of Brazilian Teals were seen. 

NE Brazil Day 1

Finally, after much planning and revision today was THE day! NE Brazil is one of those destinations you just have to visit as its packed with endemics, rare and extremely localised birds. Throw in a whole bunch of future/potential splits and it’s high up on the ‘where next to go’ list. So, with everyone arriving a day early we all met in the lobby of our hotel and waited for our guide, Ciro Albano to arrive. At the meeting time he pulled up in our chariot for the next 16 days and we were soon off, getting out of the manic traffic Fortaleza has become known for with relative ease. We drove for just under 3 hours, seeing a few ‘drive by’ birds such as Southern Crested Caracara, Guira Cuckoo, Ruddy Ground-Dove, Neotropical Palm Swift, Shiny Cowbird and other dross!

The final stage of the drive was on a winding road through rolling hills covered in forest and the habitat looked amazing. We parked in a quiet lane and walked maybe a kilometre or a bit less, racking up some incredible birds. First up was an obliging endemic Ceara Gnateater that 

hoisted itself out of the shadows to come take a look at us, followed by Northern Lesser Woodcreeper, Glittering-throated Emerald, a Pale-breasted Thrush bathing in a puddle right in front if us, several Fork-tailed Woodnymphs, and a Guianan Tyrannulet. Then an endemic Buff-throated Tody-Tyrant began calling and was soon lured in for decent views, and pretty quickly after this we saw Planalto Hermit, Variegated Flycatcher, a flock of Red-necked Tanagers, Guira Tanager, and a superb endemic Ochraceous Piculet.  

Buff-throated Tody-Tyrant

Ochraceous Piculet

Finally, just before reaching our minibus we found a couple of endemic Grey-breasted Parakeets perched in the canopy above us and ended the morning session with a perched Planalto Tyrannulet.

Grey-breasted Parakeet

After lunch in a nearby village, we returned to the forest and birded our way in the opposite direction to this morning. A Black-capped Antwren was first up, followed by Pectoral Sparrow, Purple-throated Euphonia, and a magnificent Gould’s Toucanet. We continued walking slowly along the road seeing a few Rufous-tailed Jacamars, Streaked and Short-crested Flycatchers, a superb endemic Ceara Leaftosser that gave repeated views, and an awesome Pearly-breasted Cuckoo posing in the canopy high overhead. I think it is fair to say everyone was enjoying the sheer quality of birding in this corner of Brazil so far! 

Black-capped Antwren

Finally we reached the end of the road and a hotel complex surrounded by great forest. A few Cliff Flycatchers posed nearby, along with a group of endemic Wing-banded Hornero, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, a close Guianan Tyrannulet, and a Masked Water-Tyrant. 

Wing-banded Hornero

Cliff Flycatcher

We tried a trail here but it was closed so drove to another trail and hadn’t gone far when a pair of Variable Antshrikes were found, and were joined by another Black-capped Antwren. An Euler’s Flycatcher showed a few times and further along the trail we saw female Band-tailed Manakin, Rufous-breasted Hermit, a pair of Moustached Wrens, and had a brief view of an Ochre-cheeked Spinetail that simply refused to play ball and show itself well enough. 

Euler's Flycatcher

And that was our day.

Moli Rainforest Park - Ruili Reservoir

We visited the delightful Moli Rainforest Park notching up a decent run of good sightings. Our main quarry was Streaked Wren-Babbler, which showed on several occasions at close range giving everyone excellent views. 

Streaked Wren-Babbler

Kristian also pulled the proverbial ‘rabbit out of the hat’ with a cracking Dark-sided Thrush quietly feeding on a leaf-covered slope. 

Dark-sided Thrush

A flock of Red-billed Scimitar-Babblers and White-hooded Babblers, held a few Pale-billed and Rufous-headed Parrotbills but they were a little distant at the top of a slope. There was also 4 species of forktail: Spotted, Little, Slaty-backed and White-crowned, as well as Eastern Crowned Warbler, White-tailed Robin, lots of White-throated Bulbuls, Rufous-bellied Niltava, a pair of Red-headed Trogons and we had a couple great views of Slaty-bellied Tesia as well.

We had lunch at one of the restaurants here before checking out the flowering tree we saw on our walk in to the park where Grey Sibia, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Slender-billed Oriole, Long-tailed Sibia, Maroon Oriole, and numerous Streaked Spiderhunters were seen.

After lunch we paid a visit to Ruili Reservoir, arriving about 4pm. It was still hot but walking alongside the water we found a flock of approx. 30 Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes going about their business in the dense secondary growth. A Burmese Shrike was also much appreciated and there was also Common Iora, a group of 3 Rufous Woodpeckers, Striated Grassbird, Greenish Warbler, Verditer and a female Slaty-blue Flycatcher. Out on the water were quite a few Indian Spot-billed Ducks, a few Mandarins, Little Grebe and both Great and Little Cormorants – the latter species is quite hard to get in China.

Nabang - Ruilli

Following another abortive attempt for Hodgson’s Frogmouth we got the ball rolling with a flyover Jerdon’s Baza, followed by displaying Crested Goshawk, with the distinctive white undertail coverts fluffed up across the rump. At a huge stand of bamboo we had Bay Woodpecker, Red-headed Trogon, Blue-throated Barbet, lots of Hair-crested Drongos, Scarlet Minivet, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Asian House Martin, Yellow-bellied Warbler, a heard only Broad-billed Warbler, and a Mountain Tailorbird.

Bay Woodpecker

Moving on we had Stripe-breasted Woodpecker in a flock consisting of Black-headed and Blyth’s Shrike-Babblers and Rufous-backed Sibias, with some Ashy Woodswallows nearby. Also seen were Crested Finchbill, Grey Treepie, and other commoner species.

Driving to Ruili we stopped on a ridge and found a flock of Grey-breasted Prinias, Hill Prinia, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Eastern Buzzard, and a Little Bunting.

Our best meal of the trip tonight.

Nabang Again

We birded a different area and enjoyed a number of really good sightings. Around the area where the bus was parked Mountain Tailorbirds were calling and a male Hill Blue Flycatcher was spotted by David. The trail we followed wound its way up the hill and we found ourselves in Streaked Spiderhunter heaven! A perched Mountain Imperial-Pigeon was nice but most of the birds we were seeing were all pretty common, however our discovery of a recently established photo hide and feeding station in the forest proved to be a godsend. 

Rufous-bellied Niltava

For the first half an hour there was nothing but all of a sudden birds began to arrive with the first of 3 different male White-tailed Robins. This was followed by a pair of Large Niltavas, Rufous-faced and Marten’s Warblers, male Little Pied Flycatcher, female Snowy-browed Flycatcher, male Himalayan Bluetail, a pair of Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, female White-tailed Robin, Puff-throated Babbler, a pair of White-crowned Forktails, Grey-bellied Tesia 

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch

White-crowned Forktail

and Pygmy Cupwing. A White-crested Laughingthrush skulked in the background but never came in to the feeding station.

After a few hours here we walked further uphill and found Red-headed Trogon and a group of Red-billed Scimitar-Babblers, whilst around the next bend there was a group of 7 White-hooded Babblers showing well in an extensive stand of bamboo. 

White-hooded Babbler

All of a sudden some Rufous-headed Parrotbills appeared briefly, but not long enough for us to i.d them for sure. We spent a while looking for them again and heard Long-tailed Broadbill and Streaked Wren-Babbler. 

Rufous-headed Parrotbill

After lunch and a flock of Pin-striped Tit-Babblers we walked downhill and found Rufous-headed Parrotbill that showed briefly, a flock of Striated Yuhinas, Hair-crested and Bronzed Drongos, Pin-tailed and Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeons, White-browed Piculet, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, and best of all a Pale-headed Woodpecker. An Asian Emerald Dove was on the track as we drove back to the hotel.

Nabang

We birded the forest near Nabang all day and found a number of interesting birds… We spent most of the day checking out areas of bamboo and near one such patch we found a group of 4 Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeons and a couple of exquisite Pin-tailed Green-Pigeons but best of all was a group of Black-headed Shrike-Babblers and a Spotted Elachura. 

Pin-tailed Green-Pigeon

Along the road a flock of 7 Red-billed Scimitar-Babblersheld at least 1 Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler and a single Rufous-backed Sibia. Later on a Stripe-breasted Woodpecker put in an appearance, whilst a clearing below the road held a few White-browed Laughingthrushes. Other birds seen included Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, White-bellied Erpornis, Maroon Oriole, Hair-crested and Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Black-crested Bulbul, Puff-throated Babbler, and several Slaty-backed Forktails, 

It was yet another beautiful sunny day and that encouraged a few raptors to show themselves and we saw Crested Serpent Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Eastern Buzzard and Crested Goshawk.

Lunch in the nearby town was enlivened by a singing Striated Grassbird and a River Lapwing before we returned to the forest. The afternoon was slow but we did find a Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, a flock of Striated Yuhinas, Golden Babbler, and a large flock of Silver-eared Mesia. In the evening we tried for Hodgson’s Frogmouth in vain.

Baihualing to Laifengshan

We split the group with some of us going back up to the top of the road in search of Gould’s Shortwing, with the same result as last time. We dipped. A pair of Brown Bullfinchesand a brief pair of Mrs Hume’s Pheasants our only compensations for a tricky walk along an overgrown path. The group in the hide were successful with a group of 9 Mountain Bamboo-Partridges performing right in front of the hide, as well as further great views of many previously seen species. After lunch we drove 3 hours to Tengchong.

The next day we birded Laifengshan all morning, a good area right on the edge of Tengchong and we found it to be quite productive. Walking up the paved road to the temple at the top of the mountain we found Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Slender-billed Oriole, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, a pair of Bar-tailed Treecreepers, Black-breasted Thrush, a singing Davison’s Leaf Warbler, Blyth’s Shrike-Babbler, Grey-winged Blackbird and a bunch of common species. 

Bar-tailed Treecreeper

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker

At the top a few of the group got on to White-browed Piculet, whilst Darjeeling Woodpecker showed well and there were further views of the oriole. A flock of approx. 70+ Tibetan Serins were making quite a noise, and there was also Fire-tailed Sunbird and Bay Woodpecker as well. 

Red-billed Leiothrix

Mountain Bulbul

White-tailed Robin

Plenty of action at the drinking pool

Tibetan Serin

Whiskered Yuhina and Blue-winged Minla

Daurian Redstart

We came across a photo blind and feeding station up here that was a  surprise and lots of birds were coming down to the pool to drink and bathe such as Red-billed Leiothrix, White-tailed Robin, all 3 minlas, Mountain Bulbul, Maroon-backed Accentor and even some Tibetan Serins. At 1pm we left on the drive to our next base at Nabang.