Yunnan Day 2 - Zixi Shan

Watching it rain ‘cats and dogs’ from the hotel lobby at 7am this morning I wasn’t feeling too hopeful, but as luck would have it within an hour of arriving at our favourite spot on Zixi Shan we had blue sky overhead. A male Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush greeted our arrival, as well as our friendly neighbourhood Chinese Thrush at the same spot we saw it at yesterday. Black-headed Sibias were everywhere and thoroughly enjoying the sunshine, as were Blue-fronted Redstart and a cracking Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker. 

Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker

Our first Russet Sparrows were scoped before things got really tasty when a Giant Nuthatch began calling nearby and pretty quickly we had a pair teed up in the scope. What a bird this is! Walking to get a closer look resulted in a pair of Godlewski’s Buntings showing nicely, along with Mountain Bulbuls and a few Japanese White-eyes. 

Godlewski's Bunting

A pair of skulking Spectacled Fulvettas showed to most of the group, but a gang of Yunnan Fulvettas posed nicely alongside a pair of Rufous-capped Babblers, Buff-barred Warbler and a pair of Rufous-breasted Accentors were a great find by Mark.

White-collared Yuhina

Following this productive session we walked a different trail and came across our first White-collared Yuhinas, followed by a magical little spell with a group of Spectacled Fulvettas numbering at least 5 birds, being joined by several Rusty-capped Fulvettas just a couple of metres below us. 

Spectacled Fulvetta

A fantastic Mrs Gould’s Sunbird gave point-blank views at the same spot and Oriental White-eye and another Blue-fronted Redstart was also in the vicinity. Walking on we found a group of Olive-backed Pipits and another Godlewski’s Bunting before bumping into several mixed species flocks. The first one held both Blue-winged and Red-tailed Minlas, the next a large gathering of Black-throated Bushtits and a Pallas’s Warbler. 

Mrs Gould's Sunbird

Oriental White-eye

More Yunnan Fulvettas appeared, as did  White-bellied Erpornis, some showy Chestnut-vented Nuthatches and a female Blyth’s Shrike-Babbler. 

Yunnan Fulvetta

Lunch at the little restaurant was surprisingly good, which was more than could be said about our walk along the road in near gale force conditions. Giving up here was an easy decision to make and we drove to another spot where Yunnan Nuthatch was positively common, and we also saw a pair of Buff-throated Warblers, Pallas’s Warbler and Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler.

Yunnan Nuthatch

The next hour or so was pointless as we birded some open areas with only a Daurian Redstart to show for our efforts, but eventually we hit gold from a viewpoint across fields, a pool and some reeds. Pride of place went to the pair of Spot-breasted Parrotbills parading around below us, but Alpine Leaf Warbler, Brown-flanked Bush-Warblerand several Crested Buntings were not far behind in terms of appeal. There were also Common Kingfisher, Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts, groups of Scaly-breasted Munias, Eurasian Tree Sparrows, White-browed Laughingthrush, Hill Prinia and Eastern Stonechat. A pretty successful day in all.

Yunnan Day 1 - Zixi Shan

Headed up to Zixi Shan. The weather was a trifle worrying as it was raining and the pattern for the afternoon was one of us repeatedly retreating to the bus to shelter from heavy showers. But in between we saw some really good birds, beginning with a large flock of Olive-backed Pipits feeding beside the road. We began walking from here and around the first corner found a pair of Yunnan Nuthatches calling from the top of a bare tree. Wow! 

We followed this with Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Grey Bushchat, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Buff-throated Warbler, at least 4 Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babblers, Ashy Drongo, and 3 Blyth’s Shrike-Babblers. A Giant Nuthatch was heard calling in the distance but we just couldn’t locate it. 

Chinese Song Thrush

With mist and more rain moving in we decided to drive to another spot in the hopes of better weather, but we just couldn’t escape the rubbish weather. But the good birds kept on coming with several Black-headed Sibias, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker, Mrs Gould’s Sunbird, Chinese Thrush, Japanese and Green-backed Tits, Great Spotted Woodpecker, a flock of Black-throated Bushtits were joined by a few Black-browed Bushtits, and a Japanese White-eye appeared. We walked a little further along the road and came across an Orange-bellied Leafbird, followed by a sizeable group of White-browed Laughingthrushes, and whilst watching them a Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler showed reasonably well. And that was our first day!

Madagascar Day 11 - Nosy Ve

This morning we visited the island of Nosy Ve in the Mozambique Channel about an hour from Tulear. This entailed leaving our main suitcases in the coach, taking an overnight bag and hopping onto a Zebu cart across the sandflats at low tide to a large speedboat. Once on the island, and boy was it hot, we saw a Greater Sandplover, Ruddy Turnstoneand Common Whimbrel before walking along one of the trails. Pretty soon we were looking at a Red-tailed Tropicbird sat on its nest in the shade of a low bush. 

Red-tailed Tropicbird

We saw several more birds on the nest, but were more interested in getting close views of the birds flying around this low island. In fact, there were many birds in the air and they looked extremely elegant against the clear blue sky. Once we were done here we sailed just ten minutes to Anakoa and our waterfront lodge where we spent the rest of the day relaxing, swimming and resting. 

A little slice of paradise...

Around the lodge we saw Sakalava Weaver and a Grey Mouse Lemur sleeping in a small tree. In the late afternoon we found a male Littoral Rock-Thrush quite easily and enjoyed fine views, but it wasn’t until much later that we finally laid eyes on Madagascar Nightjar thanks to our guide Jean.

Littoral Rock-Thrush

Madagascar Nightjar

This was a perfect setting to relax and enjoy a swim as our rooms were right on the beach…

Madagascar Day 10

Of course we had to leave the best hotel of the tour where we had stayed for the shortest time out of any hotel on the tour at 5am!! But driving to Zombitse, which was about 90 minutes away was enlivened by a flyby Sooty Falcon. Upon arrival we walked a short distance with our 2 local guides and were shown a Rufous Vanga on a nest, and we also saw a Cuckoo-Roller flying over and a Long-billed Tetraka was also seen. 

Rufous Vanga

But we were after rarer things and it really didn’t take long at all to find the localised Appert’s Tetraka feeding on the ground right beside the path. 

Appert's Tetraka

Then a day-roosting White-browed Owl allowed us some fine views, a Blue Vanga was spotted by Jo, and then a pair of Frances’s Sparrowhawks were seen well. 

White-browed Owl

Frances's Sparrowhawk

But the so-called ‘easiest’ bird had yet to reveal itself and I wondered of the kiss-of-death had been given to Giant Coua. I shouldn’t have worried as across the road we had stunning and repeated views of this ace-looking creature walking along the forest floor in front of us. 

Giant Coua

With all of our targets met, we left and set out on another 90 minute drive to an area where we hoped to find Madagascar Sandgrouse. Sure enough, another local guide and his helpers led us to a flock of 13 sheltering from the blistering heat in the shade of a tall bush. Mission accomplished and we left and drove to Tulear for a siesta and a rest before venturing out again at 3.30pm.

Madagascar Sandgrouse

We headed out into the spiny forest and quickly found a Verreaux’s Coua that kept on moving through the thorn scrub but showed on and off for several minutes. 

Red-shouldered Vanga

Subdesert Brush Warbler

We followed that with a pair of Red-shouldered Vangas and enjoyed amazing views, along with a Subdesert Brush Warbler before returning to the hotel after a rather short session. 

Madagascar Day 9

Leaving the rainforest of Ranomafana behind us we headed out to the arid Anja Park which involced a 4 hour drive. Our main focus was to see Grey-headed Lovebird, Madagascan Hoopoe and Madagascan Buttonquail, all of which we saw quite easily and had good views. 

Grey-headed Lovebird

Madagascan Hoopoe

Tourists come here for the troops of Ring-tailed Lemurs that inhabit the forest at the base of the impressive rocky escarpment. We also saw Oustalet’s Chameleon and Brown Leaf Chameleon as well to round off a nice little walk. 

Oustalet's Chameleon

Brown Leaf Chameleon

Ring-tailed Lemur

Then we set off on another 3.5 hour drive to Isalo, seeing Madagascan Lark, Madagascan Partridge and Benson’s Rock-Thrush before reaching a rather fancy hotel set amidst the rocky landscape. After dinner we had great spotlight views of Torotoroka Scops-Owland a fabulous White-browed Owl.

Torotoroka Scops Owl

White-browed Owl

Madagascar Day 8

We set off on the trails at Vohiparara around 6am and were almost immediately greeted by a pair of Scaly Ground Rollers beside the path, with one bird being rather obliging and coming out onto the path in front of us. 

Scaly Ground Roller

Not long after we were enjoying fine views of a Brown Mesite that crossed the path after some encouragement by our local guide and tracker. What an odd bird, and to my eyes appeared to be a cross between an antthrush and a quail-dove in overall shape and jizz. 

Brown Mesite

Moving on we saw another male Velvet Asity before the first of two attempts at Brown Emutail. This notorious skulker sticks to the forest floor and the first bash at it resulted in a few of the group seeing it but the second spot produced crippling views for all and I really should have done better with my photos.  

Brown Emutail

A pair of Madagascar Yellowbrows were next up and went straight into our top 10 birds of the trip, and the field guide definitely does not do them justice. A few Dark Newtonias were seen by all but a White-throated Oxylabes didn’t stick around long enough for everyone. 

Pitta-like Ground Roller

We continued following a number of trails and found the hiking much easier than yesterday. Birds kept appearing at steady intervals and we saw Red-fronted Coua, two pairs of cracking Pitta-like Ground Rollers, White-headed Vanga, a Hook-billed Vanga on a nest, Blue Coua and finished off with a female Crossley’s Vanga feeding on the forest floor. Not a bad morning at all.

Blue Coua

White-headed Vanga

Following lunch and a siesta we opted to stay out of the forest and visit some nearby ricefields, which didn’t really produce anything of note. However, along the main road we had a great look at Blue Coua, Cryptic Warbler and Common Jery before returning to the hotel.