Manaus Tour is Ending....

Our last day was something of a short one as we had to get Chris & Ian to Manaus airport for early afternoon, so we had just a couple of hours birding. We met at 6am and walked along the entrance road a short way, where luckily we had a couple sightings of Little Chachalaca as it flew over us on several occasions. And then we headed for the white sand forest and our latest battle with Pelzeln’s Tody-tyrant. Well the bird won again so some of the group headed to the Capuchinbird lek site and enjoyed fantastic views of up to 8 birds, whilst myself, Chris and David stayed on for more punishment with Mr Pelzeln’s. However, this time after a protracted wait we actually saw the little bugger and returned to the dining area for a hearty breakfast in high spirits. That just left a quick shower, pack and load the minibus for the 90 minute drive back to Manaus. Dropping the guys off at the airport and then into the airport hotel for lunch and a nice long rest to prepare ourselves for the exciting days to come at Amazonia National Park.

Here's a selection of other photos not used so far.... 

Blackish-grey Antshrike from our Rio Negro boat trip

Crested Oropendola

Flame-crested Tanager from the ZF2 Tower....

Fork-tailed Flycatcher from Marchanteria Island

Great Black Hawk over the Rio Negro

Ivory-billed Aracari from the Rio Negro

Leaden Antwren showing well on our Rio Negro boat trip

Plumbeous Kite showing well over the Rio Negro

Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo in the early morning mist - from the ZF2 Tower

White-winged Parakeet from Marchanteria Island

Zimmer's (Yellow-margined) Flatbill from the ZF2 Tower

Zimmer's Woodcreeper from our Rio Negro boat ride inside Anavilhanus National Park 

White Sand Forest Birding

A singing Bright-rumped Attila was the first bird of the day as we walked to one of the pousada’s trails at 6am, followed by a pair of Guianan Warbling Antbirds and a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner beside the road. Walking up to the trail we stopped beside a large fruiting tree where several White-throated Manakins were feeding high up above us and we spent some time trying to improve on our views before entering the dark and gloomy trail. This was a little quiet and the only bird of note seen was a Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant, so we returned to the lodge for a great breakfast during which we saw Buff-throated Saltator on the bird table, plus Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Sulphury Flycatcher, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Spangled Cotinga, and the regular Grey-breasted Sabrewing at the feeder.

Yellow-crowned Manakin

Heading out to trails in the white sand forest this afternoon we saw Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin again before getting scorching views of Yellow-crowned Manakin. It was just a shame that the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t appear again.  We tried the Capuchinbird arena but only heard it.  

So after lunch and a rest we tried again for the tody-tyrant without any joy before heading to the Capuchinbird stake-out, but only hearing it distantly once again. A close Spotted Puffbird was at least some form of compensation from our birdless walk so far! 

Spotted Puffbird

So we walked back to the lodge only for Pablo to say he was going to get some help from the lodge and make a path towards where the Capuchinbird was calling from and we were to continue birding. After some time he returned and said he’d found their newly relocated lekking area and if we wanted to see them then we would have to race back as the sun was setting beyond the horizon. So some of us dashed back through the forest and sure enough we did see several very weird-looking, but totally awesome Capuchinbirds overhead and heard their weird calls to round off the day.

ANOTHER CRIMSON FRUITCROW DOESN'T MAKE A SUMMER!

Boy was it a tough, slow morning’s birding today. We left our pousada at 5am and drove for around an hour to a wide forest track that passes through great forest – Pablo has even seen Harpy Eagle here in the past, so it must be good right? Well we started off with a calling Red-throated Caracara and Golden-green Woodpecker, followed by Black-headed Antbird and a cracking female Black-throated Antshrike. Just around the corner a Blackish Nightjar was flying around in broad daylight, but it wasn’t until our return that we found out why, as it had a nest right beside the track with a single egg in. But from here on in we struggled to see much at all. That being said another Crimson Fruitcrow was found in a tree above us and was about a mile closer than the pair from the canopy tower yesterday! The next few hours were hard and all we saw was Yellow-throated and Ruddy-tailed Flycatchers, Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Black-tailed Trogon, Black Nunbird, Chestnut Woodpecker, Bat Falcon, Screaming Piha, White Hawk and a pair of Guianan Puffbirds.

 

After lunch and a siesta back at the pousada we walked a nearby trail for a few hours and dug out two absolute corkers. First up was a Ferruginous-backed Antbird that walked along a mossy fallen trunk just a few feet away from us, and then a short while later a Wing-banded Wren performed in the same manner. So we headed back for an earlier dinner as it was approaching beer o’clock!

Birding Magic from the ZF2 Tower

This was a much-anticipated day as we were visiting the famous ZF2 canopy tower. It was something of a surprise when our local guide, Pablo, told us last night that we’d need to check out of the hotel at 3.30am bags and all..!! Ouch! Well, we did and were on the road pretty promptly heading more or less in a northerly direction out of Manaus for about 75 minutes before pulling over on a side road. Here a trio of 4-wheel drive trucks were waiting to meet us and take us to the tower. It was an interesting 40 minute drive through the forest as the dirt road was very muddy and slippery and several timers we went sideways as the wheels lost traction, but we all made it unscathed in the end. We had a picnic breakfast at the base of the tower and waited for it to get light before walking up to the top of the 42-metre canopy tower, only to find the whole area enshrouded in mist. A frustrating hour followed as the light gradually increased and the mist thinned out a little. The first bird of the day seen was a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers almost directly below us, followed by scope views of several calling White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans. Then Pablo drew our attention to a very close Glossy-backed Becard in the canopy of a tree right next to the tower and was almost at eye-level. 

Black-faced Dacnis

A flurry of activity ensued with male Black-faced Dacnis, Golden-winged Parakeet in the scope, a close calling Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, and a superb Ash-winged Antwren. Phew! Then a Guianan Toucanet was scoped, quickly followed by a Southern Mealy Amazon. 

Guianan Toucanet

Another quick flurry of new sightings followed with Yellow-throated Flycatcher, White-lored Tyrannulet, close Flame-crested Tanager, a male Black-capped Becard, Olive-green Tyrannulet, and a fine male Spot-backed Antwren. Pausing for breath we noticed the swifts flying around us at eye-level didn’t have pale rumps and were Chapman’s Swifts, and whilst watching them a Versicoloured Emerald was spotted feeding around a flowering tree below us. David scoped a pair of Blue-headed Parrots shortly after, before Pablo called in a superb Painted Tody-Flycatcher into one of the trees closest to us and just before a group of Marail Guans were found – and they eventually provided fantastic looks through the scope. 

Marail Guan

The activity slowed down somewhat from 9am but a steady stream of notable sightings kept us going, and next up was a Grey Elaenia, followed by Paradise Tanager, and the first of many, many Pompadour Cotingas. A great pair of Golden-collared Woodpeckers appeared below us, along with a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, and just before one of the closet trees yielded Guianan Tyrannulet and Zimmer’s (Yellow-margined) Flatbill. 

Golden-collared Woodpeckers

Guianan Tyrannulet

A distant Red-throated Caracara was scoped before a group of Green Aracaris appeared, and David spotted both King Vulture and White Hawk perched in the canopy at some distance away. Pablo called in Black Nunbird, several Red-and-green Macaws flew around, a Double-toothed Kite soared overhead, Paradise Jacamar was scoped, a Black-bellied Cuckoo showed well along with a Yellow-green Grosbeak. But the star bird was undoubtedly Crimson Fruitcrow, a pair of which were scoped at length on a forested ridge to the west. What a bird and the cherry on top of a superb morning’s cake!

Black-bellied Cuckoo

Green Aracari

After an ‘interesting’ drive back along the slippery road we made it to our waiting minibus within 80 minutes and were soon on the road towards Presidente Figueraido, getting delayed by a car accident en-route. So we eventually arrived at our pousada where we’d be staying for the next 3 nights at a little after 2pm and went straight down to the restaurant. Later in the afternoon we walked a short distance out into the forest where we had unbelievably close views of Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. At first we walked past two stunningly bright orange birds within 5 metres of the path who had formed a satellite lek. 

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock.... you get the idea.... awesome!

The main lek was another few hundred metres further on where over 11 males were displaying. It’s an almost unbelievable experience to witness with several males literally sitting on the forest floor and their strange calls echoing through the forest. Wow! We spent some time with these beauties before birding our way the short distance back to the lodge and notched up some really good birds. First of all a Northern Slaty-Antshrike sang above us and allowed good views, then a Bronzy Jacamar gave itself up easily, and we followed this with the bizarre Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin and a Black Manakin. It was just a shame the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t come in. 

Spangled Cotinga

Back at the lodge we enjoyed some cold drinks whilst scanning the fruiting trees at the back of the restaurant where we saw White-necked Thrush and a fantastic Spangled Cotinga enjoying the bounty. Our search for Little Chachalaca proved fruitless but a few flyover Green Oropendolas kept our list ticking over nicely!

MARCHANTERIA ISLAND MAGIC

Drove some 30 minutes to Manaus port where we boarded our boat for a trip over to Marchanteria Island. This isn’t an ‘island’ as you think of it…. Oh no, it’s a series of flooded areas with cecropia trees and flooded grassland under 6 feet of water and is where a number of Amazonian island specialists reside. The Amazon river at this point is well over a mile across and it’s phenomenal to be honest. Anyway, we managed to find a very good number of the key target species with Red-and-white Spinetail, Rusty-backed Spinetail, White-bellied Spinetail, Dark-breasted Spinetail, Amazonian Black-Tyrant, Brownish Elaenia, Black-and-white Antbird, the rare Green-throated Mango, and eventually everyone saw Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant (this race is a potential split). 

Marchanteria Island is home to a number of key specialities....

Amazonian Black Tyrant is just one of the target species here...

A fine supporting cast provided us with a many and varied list for this morning and here’s just a little selection: Buff-necked Ibis, Collared Plover, Black Skimmer, Large-billed Tern, Black-collared Hawk, Snail Kite, Amazon Kingfisher, White-winged Parakeet, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Black-bellied Cuckoo, River Tyrannulet, Oriole Blackbird, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Yellow-browed Sparrow and Lined Seedeater. The journey back to port was a bit interesting as the wind picked up and it was like sailing out in the ocean with large waves buffeting our small boat! 

Oriole Blackbird

After lunch in a nice restaurant we drove to a trail, stopping at some roadside flowering trees that Pablo knew held the stunning Crimson Topaz. Sure enough we had views of a cracking male, along with Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Long-billed Starthroat, Black-throated Mango, with several Red-bellied Macaws flying past and landing nearby. 

Crimson Topaz

The trail wasn’t far away and it started off quite well with Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Channel-billed Toucan, Chivi Vireo and Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch. We came across a small flock that held Fulvous-crested and Turquoise Tanagers and we followed this with White-throated Toucan before finding an outstandingly beautiful Pompadour Cotinga feeding in a fruiting tree. Wow! 

Fulvous-crested Tanager

Pompadour Cotinga - wow!!

A Yellow-green Grosbeak was next up, followed by Black-tailed Tityra and Guianan Trogon before the forest suddenly got really quiet. The next hour or so was slow going until we found a Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Long-billed Gnatwren, Guianan Warbling Antbird, Guianan Puffbird and a Black-throated Trogon. So not a bad day!

Topaz to Tui and Everything In-between

Our day began at 5.45am as we waited in the grounds of the lodge for daylight and in particular for Fiery Topaz to show at it’s lek site. Well thankfully the birds performed on cue and at least one astonishingly brightly-plumaged male showed incredibly well right in front of us. 

Fiery Topaz

There was also a female and an immature male present as well. Wow! As we walked to the dining area the gardens became alive with birds and in pretty quick fashion we saw Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Red-bellied Amazon, Sulphury Flycatcher, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, and a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. 

Point-tailed Palmcreeper

After an excellent breakfast we were ready to hit the trails but not before a few Chestnut-eared Aracaris flew in and landed nearby, and as we watched them a Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet was spotted  and some Short-tailed Swifts bombed overhead. The trails were quiet again and the humidity was high but we still managed to dig out a few good birds beginning with a Brownish Twistwing that incredibly everyone saw quite well. A Reddish Hermit feeding on a bright crimson bromeliad disturbed our concentration from a calling Brown Schiffornis, but it was the Lined Forest-Falcon that well and truly diverted our attention from the not-so-delightful schiffornis.  The falcon flew over our heads twice before landing in full view high up in the canopy. Oh yes! Further along the trail a Ringed Woodpecker pecked at something on a bare branch right over the trail, a female White-crowned Manakin was a little uninspiring, a Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher was seen along with a Plain-brown Woodcreeper to round off our morning’s birding. 

 

We had an hour to shower away the sweat and pack before lunch and then drove back towards Manaus and our next hotel for 2 nights. Along the way we stopped at a wetland, which proved to be surprisingly good and we added numerous species to our ever growing lists. We nailed Tui and White-winged Parakeets, with a few Short-tailed Parrots feeding in a cecropia tree nearby. 

Short-tailed Parrot

Tui Parakeets

A Yellow-headed Caracara flushed over 30 Sand-coloured Nighthawks from their rooftop roost and were absolutely stunning in flight. A White-throated Kingbird was pointed out by Pablo, a Savannah Hawk flew over, and there was also Orange-backed Troupial, Yellow-browed Sparrow, Lesser Hornero, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, some Orange-fronted Yellow-Finches, River Tyrannulet, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, many, many Smooth-billed Ani and a flyover Southern Lapwing. 

River Tyrannulet

River Tyrannulet

Sand-coloured Nightjawks

All that remained was to drive half an hour to our downtown Manaus hotel where we reached it at 5pm allowing us a leisurely evening, good food and just a few very cold beers!

NOVO AIRAO

Headed to a nearby secondary forest after a 5am breakfast and walked along a fairly flat trail with dense secondary forest on either side. First bird we had was a pair of Black-faced Antbirds that took a while for everyone to connect with. A White-cheeked Antbird began calling whilst we were here and showed briefly, with a calling Dusky Parrot high overhead also being seen. Just around the corner a very vocal Yellow-browed Antbird was coaxed into view and he spent most of the time in the mid-canopy. A group of 3 White-fronted Nunbirds flew over us and landed in a bare section of a large tree beside the trail, before we well and truly nailed Cinerous Antshrike, followed by a cracking Pearly Antshrike. A Long-winged Antwren followed and shortly after we found two pairs of diminutive Rio Negro Stipplethroats right beside the trail. Higher up we saw a few female Blue-crowned Manakins, and then Chris found a pair of White-flanked Antwrens. 

Long-winged Antwren

A little later, at the end of the trail, our patience was eventually rewarded with prolonged scope views of a singing Musician Wren – who does that?! The walk back to the minibus was quick as we hadn’t actually walked any more than a kilometre the entire 5 hours but we did find Waved Woodpecker and a Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper. High over the trail a fruiting tree was enticing a couple of Paradise Tanagers, Spotted Tanager, Streaked Flycatcher, several Purple Honeycreepers and some more female Blue Manakins. 

 

After lunch at the lodge we drove 2 hours to our next accommodation in Manacapura, which turned out to be something of a resort – much to our surprise. Anyway, at 3pm we all met up and began walking one of the many trails that can be found here. It was really hot and humid and within a few minutes we our shirts were beginning to get soaked with sweat. A tiny Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin took our minds off the humidity but it was slow going. We walked probably 3 kilometres at most and found activity to be slow all the way, with a Grey Antbird high overhead, a pair of Paradise Jacamars, a skulking Collared Gnatwren, Mouse-coloured Antshrike and a Yellow-throated Woodpecker the highlights. It was a relief to return to our air-conditioned rooms at 6pm for a warm shower but having a few beers in the restaurant to quench our thirst helped a lot!