EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE: CEIBAS EXTENSION DAY 3

So this is it, the last day. The last blog post from our epic cruise and believe me when I say that none of us wanted this to be over. It’s been that good! So what would today bring….? Well, we found ourselves driving across rolling green farm fields shortly after first light, spotting a family of Greater Rheas that were much closer than yesterday’s sighting and seeing our one and only Campo Flicker of the tour. New birds came thick and fast as we spent the entire morning walking along a kilometre stretch of road and we notched up some pretty decent looks at a few Glaucous-blue Grosbeaks feeding in roadside bushes and even feeding on seed right out in the open on the road itself. 

Green Kingfisher

We took our time and birds kept appearing, including a confiding Green Kingfisher, another Rufous-capped Antshrike, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Southern Yellowthroat, a skulking Bran-colored Flycatcher and a close Checkered Woodpecker.

Checkered Woodpecker

I particularly enjoyed a rather tame White-barred Piculet that seemed oblivious to us, first picked up in a tangle of bare branches just above eye-level before flying across the road and perching on a fence post. Superb! 

White-barred Piculet

About half way along the road was an open, scrubby area and about 75m away a line of low bushes bordering an arable field played host to several groups of seedeaters. For the furthest birds a scope was necessary and we picked up closer Double-collared Seedeater, whilst a few Rufous-rumped Seedeaters were eventually seen by most of the group. But a very close Dark-throated Seedeater pretty much stole the show here as it fed very close and right in front of us.

Dark-throated Seedeater

We also saw a few Grassland Sparrows and a Chotoy Spinetail as well.  And by now it was late morning and the temperature was rising so we drove back to the lodge seeing another Spotted Nothura before stopping just before the last bridge and walking into the taller section of trees seeing Tufted Tit-Spinetail and White-winged Becard.

Our last lunch at Rio de las Aves Lodge

After packing our luggage we enjoyed another fine feast at Rio de las Aves Lodge before setting out towards Buenos Aires. Along the way we birded along a track between pools and marshes and despite the hot conditions enjoyed cracking views of a very confiding Warbling Doradito right in front of us. 

Warbling Doradito

It took a while but eventually a Curve-billed Reedhaunter gave itself up and as we did battle with this skulker a superb Long-winged Harrier flew low over the marsh next to us, and we also had a Gilded Sapphire along with some other previously seen species. 

Long-winged Harrier

And that was it. The fat lady was singing and we drove to our hotel in downtown Buenos Aires and had our farewell dinner and time to reminisce over an epic Cape Horn trip.

EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE: CEIBAS EXTENSION DAY 2

We checked out the surroundings of our lodge before breakfast, following a trail through the bushes and trees to a marshy area seeing Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher, Southern Yellowthroat, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, and after a bit of a battle everyone had views of a typically skulking Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter. Back at the lodge we staked out the trees and bushes from beside the swimming pool where Greyish Saltator, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, White-naped Xenopsaris and a flyover American Cliff Swallow were all new for our list. 

After a great breakfast we drove out to a different area, passing fields full of Southern Screamers. I mean we saw literally hundreds and hundreds of them, and it really was quite phenomenal. 

Southern Screamer

We began with our best views of Pampa-Finch, followed by Sooty-fronted Spinetail and White-crested Tyrannulet. The road we were on was once again dusty and he few cars that were using it kicked up clouds of dust, which was more of an inconvenience than anything else.

Pampa Finch

But the birds kept on coming, and a tiny Fulvous-crowned Scrub-Tyrant showed repeatedly in the bushes bordering the road, as did a pair of Little Thornbirds. The same stretch of road also produced Pale-breasted Spinetail, White Monjita and a pair of White-tipped Plantcutters, the latter species has usually departed this area by now so we were once again fortunate to get them.

 

After lunch back at the wonderful Rio de las Aves and a siesta during the heat of the early afternoon we drove to another section of Ceibas, and we found ourselves amidst a huge, wide-open landscape of fields and dried-up marshes. We were on the look out for Greater Rhea and drove quite a long way before Michel somehow spotted a lone individual a long way off. Views in the scope were ok and again, we were lucky. But the afternoon was a roaring success for the views of several Spotted Nothuras that eventually proved to be rather obliging. 

Spotted Nothura

From the first bird that squatted in the grass becoming near-invisible (that was the one next to the shark’s fin rock!) to one or two birds walking in the open practically beside the minibus. There were huge flocks of American Golden Plovers in the fields and we spent some time scanning them for Buff-breasted Sandpipers without any joy, but we did see a few Burrowing Owls, a pair of Firewood-Gatherers that had a nest in a small windmill, and our only White-browed Blackbird of the trip. With the sun setting all too quickly we stopped at an area that Lucas said was our only shot at Marsh Seedeater, and a small chance at that. 

Marsh Seedeater

Well, despite their rare and erratic appearances here we had stunning views of a few birds in a big overgrown ditch – and what a bird they are! A Warbling Doradito was also present, along with another Freckle-breasted Thornbird. 

We'd had a thoroughly enjoyable day....

It was a very pleasant way to end the day watching such great birds and with a huge, super moon rising we left for the drive back to the lodge. 

What a spectacular moon

Along the way we stopped when a few Nacunda Nighthawks flew over the road, much to Stephen’s relief! As we got out of the minibus, more and more nighthawks flew over and we witnessed a spectacular show as they passed overhead in streams. Amazing.

Little Nightjar

Tropical Screech-Owl

Once back at the lodge we had time to shower and change before yet another amazing feast complimented by copious amounts of wine and beer. But we weren’t done yet, as a short night-birding session resulted in great views of Tropical Screech-Owl and Little Nightjar to round off another exceedingly successful day in Argentina.

EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE: CEIBAS EXTENSION DAY 1

Well, yesterday was a disaster. A huge tanker had got stuck in the channel leading into Buenos Aires harbour and we were unable to dock, so spent the entire day moored in the middle of the river. The ship causing the problem was a ‘sister’ to the one that blocked the Suez Canal last year! You just couldn’t write this s***!!!!! Anyway, we left the ship one last time ‘early doors’ and met up with our excellent local guide Lucas Marti, who took us to Costanera Sur first. We birded the approach, as the gates are locked to the actual reserve until 8am and notched up a fine selection of species. To a backdrop of salsa music we birded from the main path, seeing White-faced Whistling-Duck, Cocoi Heron, Southern Screamer, Giant Woodrail, Limpkin, Bare-faced Ibis, Wattled Jacana, a flyover Long-winged Harrier, White-eyed & Monk Parakeets, Green-barred Woodpecker, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Cattle Tyrant, Tropical Kingbird, Creamy-bellied and Rufous-bellied Thrush and Yellow-billed Cardinal. Of course there were plenty of birds we’d already seen and I particularly enjoyed the close views of Rosy-billed Pochard, Spot-flanked Gallinule, a superb Rufescent Tiger-Heron, some more Brazilian Teal, a stunning Fork-tailed Flycatcher in the scope, and a really cool pair of close Narrow-billed Woodcreepers amongst others. 

Rosy-billed Pochard

This Green Kingfisher was rather obliging

After a little under two hour drive we arrived at Ceibas and birded along a dusty road. Boy it was hot but the birding was good with White-fronted and White Woodpeckers, Short-billed Canastero, Black-capped Warbling-Finch, Red-crested Cardinal and the hulking Brown Cachalote. 

Black-capped Warbling-Finch

But by now it was well into lunchtime, so we drove to a nearby restaurant that just happened to be located right next to a wetland (well, despite the drought there was still some mud and water!) and either side of our lunchtime feast we notched up quite a few decent species including the very common Southern Screamer, Roseate Spoonbill, Giant Woodrail, Black-necked Stilts, a load of Pectoral Sandpipers, Spot-winged Pigeon, Scarlet Flycatcher (split form vermilion Flycatcher), and more common species. A short drive away was a small pond where we finally saw Ringed Teal, a very wanted species I can tell you! 

Watching Ringed Teal

In fact there were several males and a few females and very nice in the scope they were too! A pair of Collared Plovers were also a nice addition to our list, as was Pantanal Snipe and Guira Cuckoo. We also saw another Brown Cachalote, White-fronted Woodpecker and Chalk-browed Mockingbird here as well. With our lodge just a short distance away we headed over there to drop our luggage off, seeing a few Upland Sandpipers standing in the shade of some bushes along the way. 

Pantanal Snipe

There was also Savannah Hawk, White-tipped Dove, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, and at a boggy spot right beside the track we were driving on a close Pantanal Snipe was stood next to 3 Yellowish Pipits. 

Our lodge...

After we had dropped our bags into our rooms we had a short rest before heading out once again into the vast landscape. What an amazing place this is and the birding just kept on getting better and better. A few of the group saw a Spotted Nothura in the gardens, but we’d be seeing plenty of them tomorrow…. So we drove to different spots in the area, walked a bit, drove a bit, bided some more and began with Suiriri Flycatcher, followed by Checkered Woodpecker, yet another Brown Cachalote, Tufted Tit-Spinetail, Small-billed Elaenia, and eventually a group of 3 Lark-like Brushrunners. I’d have dearly liked to get a photo but it wasn’t doable so kept on birding, seeing Chotoy Spinetail, Screaming Cowbird, Golden-billed Saltator, Spectacled Tyrant, White-barred Piculet, White-rumped Swallow, Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch, Hooded Siskin, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Stripe-crowned Spinetail and bird of the day – Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper. 

Ceibas habitat

Savannah Hawk

What a day this had been and we returned to the lodge at dusk, unprepared for the feast to follow! But the free beer tasted mighty fine!

EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE: DAY 13 MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY

Today was incredibly successful, as we birded the shoreline, lakes and marshes on the outskirts of Montevideo. No tender ashore required today, we just walked off the ship and met up with our excellent local guide, Florencia Ocampo. When I say today was a great day, it was! We saw 106 species in total and I think i'm right in saying that none of us wanted today to end. Our first site was a large lagoon just inland form the massively wide Rio de la Plata, where we spent a pleasant hour or so watching all the activity as birds kept coming and going, and we notched up many new trip ticks. My particular favourite was a Snowy-crowned Tern that appeared right in front of us and landed on a small island. Amazing! 

Snowy-crowned Tern

This was proper birding and thoroughly enjoyable and we began with Picazurro and Spot-winged Pigeons, Green Kingfisher, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, a flock of Black Skimmers, Spot-flanked Gallinule, several Hudsonian Godwits, and plenty of common species. 

Hudsonian Godwit

In the sedges right in front of us, a few stunning Rusty-collared Seedeaters appeared and looked gorgeous! On the far side of the lagoon a Sooty Tyrannuletwas spotted, then a few Black-necked Stilts appeared, followed by both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, and a couple of Baird’s Sandpipers. We continued scanning through the masses of Lake Ducks and found a few Silver Teals as well before moving on towards the river. 

Rusty-collared Seedeater

As we walked out to the beach, a pair of Long-tailed Reed-Finch showed well and a Spectacled Tyrant popped up in view. Along the shoreline there were masses of birds present, flocks of Snowy-crowned, Cabot’s and a few Common Terns were constantly on view and flying past us, several groups of American Golden Plovers were present, there were more skimmers, godwits and yellowlegs, groups of White-fronted Ibis took to the air, flocks of ducks whizzed by, and we also found a few Royal Terns. Florencia was excited by a Magnificent Frigatebird out on the river, apparently a rare bird here. Moving inland again we picked up Small-billed Elaenia and Gilded Hummingbird, before calling at another section of beach where a few Chilean Flamingo’s were another rare bird for Uruguay, and we also had nice close views of White-rumped Sandpiper too. 

White-rumped Sandpiper

Then we drove to a pool beside the highway where a flock of Black-necked Swans looked superb in the sunshine, there was another Spot-flanked Gallinule, a family of Cinnamon Teals and best of all, a Rufous-sided Crake skulking at the base of the reeds. A flock of Bare-faced Ibis also flew over as we rejoined the minibus.

Cinnamon Teal

Black-necked Swans

By now it was late morning and our stomachs were grumbling and we were ready for lunch, so drove to a Eucalypt woodland along the river. But the drive there was superb and we picked up many trip ticks and a few previously seen species, beginning with Burrowing Owl, Greyish Baywing, Screaming Cowbird, Red-crested Cardinal, White Woodpecker, Brazilian Teal, Whistling Heron, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Grey Monjita, and also a brief White Monjita.

 

Lunch consisted of a selection of empanadas, before we staked out a nearby marsh. There’s been a drought so the marsh was practically dry but that didn’t deter a pair of Narrow-billed Woodcreepers that were on view for quite a while. 

Chestnut Seedeater

Chestnut and Dark-throated Seedeaters

Chestnut and Dark-throated Seedeaters

But it was my new favourite family, seedeaters that stole the show as we saw several Double-collared, a few Chestnut and a stunning male Dark-throated Seedeater. Further scanning produced White-tipped Dove, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch, Masked Gnatcatcher, Hooded and Black-chinned Siskins, Southern Yellowthroat, Variable Oriole, a skulking Freckle-breasted Thornbill, and a White-crested Tyrannulet. 

Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch

So, by now it was late afternoon and we had to return to the ship, arriving in plenty of time for yet more food and drinks and time to relax! It’s a little but like a holiday!!!