Cerro Tunari

Following a later than usual breakfast we drove through the suburbs of Cochabamba and headed up into the highlands of Cerro Tunari. 

Cerro Tunari

Cerro Tunari

With many potential new species on offer it was with a good deal of excitement that we made our first stop and sure enough we were not to be disappointed with Rufous-sided Warbling-finch, Grey-hooded Parakeet and the endemic Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer all seen easily. A Giant Hummingbird was also present and perched below us, the first of many White-winged Black Tyrants showed well and Band-tailed Seedeater was slightly less impressive but when a spectacular Red-tailed Comet appeared behind us there was no doubt that it would be bird of the day….. 

Grey-hooded Parakeet

Moving higher up through the scenic valley we found Bare-faced Ground-dove and Rusty-vented Canastero before checking out our first area of Polylepsis forest. Feeding around the branches of one such tree were both Tawny and Brown-capped Tit-spinetails, both of which were frequent sightings throughout the day. A few people were lucky enough to catch sight of a pair of Andean Tinamou (our 5^th tinamou species of the trip) scuttling for cover but everyone was distracted when a very colourfully plumaged Golden-breasted Woodpecker (flicker) was found on the other side of the road and the tinamous were promptly forgotten. The same site also gave us a pair of White-browed Chat-tyrants and a small bird skulking in the bushes proved to be a Cinereous Conebill. The scenery from here on was getting better and better with impressive mountains all around and the birds kept on coming. The Holy Grail (according to Malcolm) of Bolivian Blackbird duly fell under our relentless pursuit of lifers as a few birds fed on the slope below us. A mountain stream looked good for something and sure enough Paul picked up a Torrent Duck and there was also White-winged Cinclodes – although this should be referred to as Creamy-bellied Cinclodes, a recent split. 

High up on Cerro Tunari

Further on, a Rufous-bellied Saltator was found, before we drove right up to 4100m and the puna zone which was totally devoid of any ground-tyrants, so we headed back down to more promising terrain. 

Bar-winged Cinclodes

David spotted a White-winged Diuca-finch perched on a rock and a Bar-winged Cinclodes was watched as it brought juicy worms into its nest tucked under a bridge. Moving lower a Streak-fronted Thornbird was seen building a nest on the hillside above us and then a Rock Earthcreeper was called in to give outstanding views, and a Plain-coloured Seedeater was also found. 

Rock Earthcreeper

As we ate our lunch on the bus due to a heavy shower, a D’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant appeared beside us, and fortunately the rain stopped and we walked along the road checking various patches of Polylepsis for Giant Conebill, which never materialised. However, more new birds were found with stunning Cochabamba Mountain-finches, both Peruvian and Black-hooded Sierra-finches, better views of the saltator and other previously seen species. 

Cochabamba Mountain-finch

When an Olive-crowned Crescentchest began calling we didn’t hold out much hope as earlier in the day we had tried another singing individual without any luck whatsoever. Unbelievably, this bird did respond and came a long way down the hillside and we were fortunate to watch a pair feeding on the ground for a few minutes, What a stunning bird and it duly knocked the comet off its perch for bird of the day. Even better was to come a short while later with a singing bird at point-blank range just a little further on. Wow! 

Olive-crowned Crescentchest

We finished the day with brief views for some of Bolivian Warbling-finch and a Cordilleran Canastero, before returning to the hotel with plenty of lifers safely tucked under our belts and a good suntan!

Return Journey to Cochabamba

We headed up into the cloud forest on our way back to Cochabamba this morning and our first stop gave us several cool-looking Inca Jays, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Bolivian Brush-finch, Blackburnian Warbler, Andean Guan, Cinnamon Flycatcher and best of all, an obliging Blue-banded Toucanet. 

Bolivian Brush-finch

Blue-banded Toucanet

Next up was a flyover Double-toothed Kite which we noticed whilst watching a White-capped Dipper feeding alongside a tumbling mountain stream. It wasn’t looking too good for our chances of the endemic Black-throated Thistletail as we tried a few spots without any joy, although Glossy-black Thrush was new for some and a Streak-throated Bush-tyrant was new to our list. However,  after much searching Miguel finally ‘pulled the rabbit out of the hat’ when he found a skulking thistletail and it gave decent views for all of us in the end. At the same area some of the group managed glimpses of Rufous-faced Antpitta and a migrating Swainson’s Hawk was a surprise flyover here. We then spent the majority of the day before the rain came in, along the side-road at Tablas Mountain and during lunch we finally nailed a pair of awesome Hooded Mountain-toucans which posed perfectly on moss-encrusted trees. 

Hooded Mountain-toucan

There was also Rust-and-yellow Tanager, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, perched Black-winged Parrot, Rufous-bellied Bush-tyrant, Spectacled Whitestart and plenty of other common species. 

Spectacled Whitestart

The clouds then descended and heavy rain set in by mid-afternoon so we headed over the pass and down to Cochabamba. 

Carrasco National Park

We spent the day in Carrasco National Park beginning just after breakfast with lots of Yellow-rumped Caciques, Magpie Tanager, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Pale-breasted Thrush, Blue-grey Tanager and the not-so splendid delights of a female Double-collared Seedeater. Approaching the Park HQ we called in a cracking pair of Chestnut-tailed Antbirds, then had the superb Paradise Tanager and not that pretty Speckled Chachalaca. 

Paradise Tanager

We then had to cross the river in a ‘cable car’ that was pulled across by hand, by our local guide and so gain entry into the park. Once inside this excellent forest, birding was rather slow but we still picked up another Flammulated Pygmy-tyrant, both Sepia-capped and Yellow-olive Flycatchers, Red-crowned Ant-tanager, Red-headed Manakin and Rufous Motmot. 

Oilbirds

But our main purpose was to visit a secluded cave where a colony of Oilbirds could be seen. And what strange birds they are, but we had superb views of at least fifteen birds including a chick on a nest. This was one of the major highlights of the tour so far for me, a lifer and a bird i'd always wanted to see. Don't get many of those in Asia! 

Sunbittern on a nest

Tearing ourselves away from here we saw a few bats in another cave before getting to grips with Black-faced Antthrush and a Tawny-crowned Greenlet before returning to the Park HQ for our lunch. The afternoon was a bit of a washout as it rained pretty much most of the time, but we did pick up Red-legged Honeycreeper, and found a Sunbittern on a nest with a small chick before getting back to the lodge quite early and the chance for a good rest.

Moving on to Villa Tunari

We left Cochabamba and headed up into the hills and over a high pass, and the road then dropped steeply until we reached a narrow track that led through the cloud forest. We picked up a number of new birds beginning with Scarlet-bellied and the rather more uncommon Chestnut-bellied Mountain-tanager. A Bolivian Tyrannulet quickly followed, as did Rust-and-yellow Tanager, Spectacled Redstart, Montane Woodcreeper, and an untypically obliging Maroon-breasted Chat-tyrant. 

Maroon-breasted or Maroon-belted Chat-tyrant

Beside a fast flowing river we had a Golden-crowned Flycatcher, followed a little later by Streak-necked Flycatcher, Glossy-black Thrush, Dusky-green Oropendola and a brief Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper. After a picnic lunch we drove back up to the main road and spent the rest of the afternoon driving down into the valley, making frequent stops. A huge Black-and-chestnut Eagle was a bonus, as was a Sunbittern seen on yet another tumbling mountain stream. Other goodies included a pair of Saffron-crowned Tanagers, brief Blue-banded Toucanet, Western Wood Pewee, Chestnut-collared Swift, White-throated Kingbird and finishing off with a Fasciated Tiger-heron.

Bolivian Brush-finch

The day was all about quality and good views of most things, but there was also a fine supporting cast and other highlights included Bar-bellied Woodpecker, Light-crowned Spinetail, Red-crested Cotinga, Tyrian Metaltail, Bolivian Brush-finch, White-winged and Fawn-breasted Tanagers. It was a pleasant surprise to find our accommodation at Villa Tunari was amongst the best of the whole tour and even came complete with Russet-backed Oropendolas nesting in the garden.

Siberia to Cochabamba

It was amazing how much more activity there was in Siberia forest this morning, compared to yesterday afternoon and we soon started notching up new birds. No sooner had we jumped out of the bus than a Great Thrush and Red-crested Cotinga were teed up in the scope. A Tyrian Metaltail perched just long enough for us to get on to and a pair of Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrants were rather cooperative. We spent most of the morning walking along a trail into the cloud forest and were accompanied by flocks of Scaly-naped Parrots frequently flying over. 

Trilling Tapaculo

At the first corner a Trilling Tapaculo showed incredibly well, Bolivian Brush-finch appeared, a beautiful Spotted Nightingale-thrush was seen by a few of us and an Andean Tyrant appeared. Moving on we had Speckled Hummingbird, Variable Antshrike and a Light-crowned Spinetail along the trail. Then, a random bit of owl call from the ipod resulted in a few birds coming in to check us out, with 3 Blue-winged Mountain-tanagers, Masked Flowerpiercer and Fawn-breasted Tanager being the pick of the bunch. 

Blue-winged Mountain-tanager

But when a Yungas Pygmy-owl began calling back from the nearby moss-encrusted trees we spent an age trying to find it but eventually succeeded in getting this little beauty perched on a number of occasions. A Blue-backed Conebill also flew in to check out all of the commotion, as did both White-crested and Highland Elaenias, and a Bar-bellied Woodpecker was seen by just a few lucky group members. 

Wedge-tailed Hillstar

With time running out we walked on a bit further and had a fine Blue-and-black Tanager and a pair of Andean Slaty-thrushes as well before it was time to leave and set out on the long journey to Cochabamba. The road passed through several more arid inter-Andean valleys and we made a few stops along the way. The first notable one produced a Rock Earthcreeper calling away from the top of a cliff and we were also privileged to see the endemic Wedge-tailed Hillstar perched in a small bush. Miguel picked up a Creamy-breasted Canastero, whilst White-backed Chat-tyrant, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant, Bronze-winged Cowbird, Plumbeous Sierra-finch, Chiguanco Thrush and Giant Hummingbird were all new additions to our list here. A little later an Andean Flicker caused a quick stop and at our final stop a pair of superb Black-headed Sierra-finches were seen, along with Ash-breasted Sierra-finch and a few flyby Andean Gulls.