Pere David's At Last

Left Maduo after a rather interesting breakfast of some black rice porridge – yes it was as disgusting as it sounds and I didn’t partake! We then drove north basically and went in search of the two remaining snowfinches that had so far eluded us. I found this particularly frustrating as I wasn’t totally sure where to find them having been in the alleged best sites for them already. Well we made a few stops to look at Black-necked Crane, Upland Buzzard, Lesser Sandplover, Tibetan Gazelle, Tibetan Fox etc. At one particularly interesting spot we walked across a Pika-laden field and into some scrub and found a Pink-tailed Bunting – totally unexpected actually. But we were escorted ‘off the premises’ by the alleged landowner who wanted a large sum of money from us. So we left! The rest of the day was spent stopping, scanning and walking a little bit, especially at Er la Pass where we saw White-winged Redstart, Tibetan Lark and all the usual suspects.

Another Tibetan Fox - but he's got his lunch....!

Towards the end of the day a big storm was brewing....

By early evening we were driving across the sandy plateau approaching Gonghe when I decided to stop and have one final scan. Fortunately, and boy we earned it, there was a Pere David’s (Small) Snowfinch in the distance feeding alongside some sheep. Wow! Can’t explain the elation I felt at this point as I’d really given up finding anything new today. So we walked closer and managed really nice scope views, but a strong fence lay between us and it so couldn’t get closer for decent photos. Anyway, everyone was really happy and we also had a few Mongolian Larks – in fact our best views to-date to really add a little icing on the cake. Plus several Isabelline Wheatears as well.   And that was our day…!

Moving on.....

We decided to change our itinerary as our previous day in the forest was pretty successful and we still had a couple of snowfinches still missing from our lists, so basically this was a travelling day as we drove 560kms from Nangqian to Maduo with just a few stops made. We did see a few birds along the way such as White-winged Redstart, Robin Accentor, White-rumped, Rufous-necked and Henri’s Snowfinches, plus the by now standard ‘amazing scenery’. And any day when you see an Ibisbill can’t be bad right?

Culture - whatever next..?

Was really looking forward to visiting Beizha Forest the next day and it did not disappoint as we saw a number of great birds. We started in a side valley where a Blood Pheasant responded to the ipod but remained at the top of a ridge above us and not everybody managed to see it well enough.  We needn’t have worried as after breakfast we drove down into the valley and a group of 7 were feeding beside the rushing stream and we were able to watch them for a long time. 

This Buddhist monastery overlooks the forest we were birding

We then continued driving, eventually stopping beside a nice looking piece of forest, which we walked up into and then spent the rest of the morning birding in one small area. We began with a close Chinese Fulvetta, and then found Sichuan Leaf-warblers to be reasonably numerous, but a Buff-barred Warbler was somewhat of a surprise here. A pair of Himalayan Bluetails put in an appearance, whilst a high pitched call led us to a pair of Maroon-backed Accentors – another surprising find. Then a Grey-crested Tit flew in and as we watched this, a male Crested Tit-warbler appeared right next to us. In fact there were at least two males and a female in the trees around us and we were fortunate to be able to watch them for a good half an hour, with one male in particular giving absolutely stunning views. 

Crested Tit-warbler

Crested Tit-warbler

There was also Greenish and Hume’s Warblers here, as well as Rufous-breasted Accentor, Rufous-vented Tit, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, and numerous Daurian Jackdaws. It was a pity that a pair of Three-banded Rosefinches didn’t hang around long enough for everyone to see them.

The scenery was once again stunning, with a Buddhist monastery perched high up on some rocky crags and the setting was made even better with a family of Lammergeiers 
constantly on view.

Lammergeiers

From our picnic spot we could scope numerous Blue Sheep on the slopes above as well as more Lammergeier views, with one immature perched on a ledge on the cliffs above.  

Watching Blue Sheep......

So with lunch over we began walking down the road through nice forest but it was so hot there was absolutely zero bird activity. A good decision then was made to drive up to the monastery where we were fortunate to be there when one of the ‘living Buddhas' had just returned from exile a few days before our visit. So the place was buzzing with excitement and we were allowed entry and given an audience with the monks who invited us into their communal area for food and drink. A tour then followed into their main prayer and chanting room which was fascinating and decorated in typical Tibetan Buddhist architecture and design. It was a truly memorable experience and one which will live long in the memory.

Tearing ourselves from here we drove down into the forest but it was still hot and not much bird activity, although we saw a few bits and pieces but nothing new. So we left and returned to the hotel for a delicious hotpot dinner.

Buntings & Babax - eventually...!

A 5am departure saw us driving up to a high pass where our arrival was met by the sun just beginning to peek over the horizon. But boy was it cold! Birding was slow to begin with, save for a few singing Olive-backed Pipits. Once the hillside above us began to glow in the sun’s rays a couple of birds flew in and landed on the grassy slope – Kozlov’s (Tibetan) Bunting! And there it was, our major target bird in the bag before breakfast was finished. In fact, the birds flew right down towards us and landed really close and we had crippling views.

Kozlov's Bunting Site

A rare photo of yours truly

Kozlov's Bunting

Following this, we split into two groups with Tang Jun taking some people up into the higher slopes where Grandala, Alpine Accentor and close Red-fronted Rosefinch were seen. The rest of us walked down the road and bumped into a feeding party of Chinese Beautiful Rosefinches. The prompted a walk across the slope to take in a magnificent view, and along with that came a couple of female Red-fronted Rosefinches, Alpine Accentor, Plain Mountain-finch & distant scope views of a calling Tibetan Snowcock, as well as a necessary photo opportunity! Then a male Red-fronted Rosefinch was spotted and flew down into a muddy area with 4 females and they were very obliging to say the least.

Red-fronted Rosefinch

After an hour or so we all met up and walked further down the road and saw a Wallcreeper before boarding the coach and driving lower. We checked out an area of Junipers and had more Streaked Rosefinches, before heading lower. We stopped to check more trees and a random bit of ipod play resulted in Szechenyi’s (Buff-throated) Monal-partridge calling back at us from the valley below. After a bit of a search with the scope we picked up a calling bird and everyone managed tickable views before we walked lower. Much better and closer views ensued and we watched several birds feeding and walking in some open clearings amongst the Junipers. During our vigil here we also had over 7 White Eared-Pheasants as well in the same area!

As it was such a good spot with great birds and magnificent scenery, we decided to have lunch here and enjoyed some hot noodles and melon for desert. And there were some other birds as well, with Hodgson’s, Blue-fronted & White-throated Redstarts, Greenish Warbler and White-winged Grosbeak present.

Driving way down the valley most of us were snoozing as an Ibisbill flew past – well done Neil! Then we followed a trail into a narrow valley and found a Tibetan (Kozlov’s) Babax that proved really tricky to get a good view of. We did see Lammergeier, Sichuan Tit and several Pink-rumped Rosefinches though. 

Tibetan Babax

In the end we gave up after just getting flight views and tried another side valley. This time we found numerous Tibetan Babax  feeding their young out in the open and generally mooching around right in front of us, totally unafraid. A great way to end the day and we were all rather jubilant as we headed to our hotel and an early shower!

Rosey Mania

We were on-site at daybreak and scanning some craggy cliffs beside the road during breakfast. Things were a little slow to start but there were plenty of birds here with both Bar-headed Goose and Ruddy Shelduck seemingly nesting on the cliffs here, Himalayan Griffons perched and waiting for the sun, a Black-eared Kite flew by, Godlewski’s Bunting, Common Rosefinch, Rock Sparrows, Black-winged Snowfinches and others. It took a while but when the sun suddenly broke over the hills there was an instant buzz of activity and suddenly Frank picked up a bird in flight and got my attention and sure enough there was a pair of Spotted Great Rosefinches feeding beside the road! Wow! As soon as everyone had got a view they flew off but within half an hour we had relocated them and we had stunning views as they fed beside a nearby river.  What a bird! 

Spotted Great Rosefinch

There was also a fine male Pink-rumped Rosefinch feeding not too far away, but it was dwarfed by its larger and more special cousin. We also saw another Ibisbill land on the opposite bank as well. Non avian highlight was a cute Glover’s Pika feeding amongst the rocks.

The changing face of Tibetan Plateau scenery

A little later and the sun was out...

Rosefinch Valley

Moving on, the scenery became even more spectacular if that is at all possible and by the end of the day I had scenery-overload! We travelled across a wide open plain with more Tibetan Gazelles and Saker Falcon seen, to a high snow-covered pass and down into a spectacular gorge with huge snow-capped peaks and craggy cliffs. Wasn’t sure what to expect here but it was a very pleasant place to scan the surroundings and we picked up a few Golden Eagles, Upland Buzzard, two different Lammergeiers, White-winged Redstart and some Blue Sheep. 

Streaked Rosefinch

Moving lower we hit pay-dirt, as first of all there was Greenish Warbler and White-throated Dipper. Then in a small meadow above the road we found several Snow Pigeons feeding quietly. Then a male Streaked Rosefinch was found, followed by more Pink-rumped Rosefinches, both of which were very confiding. More Ground-Tits were here as well, plus Tibetan Wagtail, a brief Yellow Wagtail seemed out of place, and some huge looking Marmots. We spent quite a while watching the Rosefinches, which was fortunate as a pair of Red-fronted Rosefinches flew in and fed below our group.

Daurian Jackdaw

Dragging ourselves away from this delightful valley we stopped for lunch in a small restaurant before heading to a very scenic gorge and seeing Daurian Jackdaw and Salim Ali’s Swifts, passing yet more stunning scenery. We did see a pair of White Eared-Pheasants here, but nothing else new. Although Tibetan Partridges were very confiding, and there was White-throated and Hodgson’s Redstarts, White-capped River-chat, many Elliot’s Laughingthrushes, and Chinese White-browed Rosefinch.

Tibetan Partridge

 So by the end of the day we had seen a very cool 6 species of Rosefinch – mania indeed!