Lomas de Arena - Refugio Los Volcanes

We endured the world famous Bolivian roadwork fiasco en-route to Lomas de Arena this morning, eventually arriving at a little after 7.30am. We didn’t actually get very far into the park at all but still picked up a variety of interesting species starting with Barred Antshrike, Green-barred Woodpecker, Blue-winged Parrotlet,Double-collared Seedeaterand Red-crested Finch. As we were watching a pair of Chotoy Spinetails, Chaco Puffbird, and the same spot also held Rufous Casiornis, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Blue-black Grassquit, and a pair of Rufous-fronted Thornbirds. 

Chaco Puffbird

We also saw a few close Fork-tailed Flycatchers, White-banded Mockingbird, Pale-breasted Spinetail, and a family group of 5 White Woodpeckers. Around a pool we saw  a pair of Red-billed Scythebills, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Orange-backed Troupialand a Crowned Slaty Flycatcher.

Fork-tailed Flycatcher

We then drove to Los Volcanes, arriving in thick mist. With our bags being taken down in a couple of cars we saId our goodbyes to our driver Fernando and began walking the 4kms to the lodge. With poor visibility it was a little frustrating to only hear some good birds but the lower we walked the better things got for us. We had a couple sightings of Pale-legged Warbler, Streaked Xenops, a cracking Black-capped Antwren and Yellow-olive Flatbill. 

A perched Andean Condor beside the track

A small flock held Red-eyed Vireo, Tropical Parula, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, and a White-winged Tanager, but the sight of a majestic Andean Condor perched in a nearby tree was far more appealing! By now the mist had lifted and we could see the far side of the valley, and could also identify some of the numerous parrots wheeling across the canopy. Most were Mitred Parakeets, but there was also Turquoise-fronted Amazons, Blue-headed Parrots and some brief Military Macaws. We also saw Black-goggled Tanagerand Ochre-cheeked Spinetail on the final stretch of the walk to the lodge. 

Not a bad location!

Return to Santa Cruz

Headed back to the same gallery forest as last night for our last spot of birding around Trinidad. But not before getting views of Little and Scissor-tailed Nightjars and a sexy little Capped Heron along the way. Once at the forest we spent the next couple of hours following the trail into really good habitat. 

At the entrance a Pale-vented Pigeonwas perched in a tall Cecropia, followed by Plain-crowned Spinetail, Straight-billed Woodcreeper and Glittering-throated Emerald, A few birds came into my owlet imitation including Streaked Xenops, Blue Dacnis, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Warbler and a pair of owls as well. 

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

We had further views of Unicolored Thrush, albeit it not good views, but views nonetheless. Walking back to the cars a pair of Yellow Tyrannulets  posed nicely. And that was our time up, so we headed to the airport for our flight back to Santa Cruz.

Back at the hotel in Santa Cruz we met up with Martin and Sue who had arrived from the UK earlier this morning, had lunch and then I took Martin and Sue to the Botanical Gardens whilst Miguel took the rest of the group back to the airport. In the gardens we truly nailed Bolivian Slaty Antshrike with a pair giving walk away views. 

Bolivian Slaty Antshrike

We also had White-bellied Seedeater, Southern Yellowthroat,Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Blue-crowned Trogon, Amazonian Motmot and Thrush-like Wren. We reached the lagoon at dusk and were amazed to see 1000+ Western Cattle Egrets rooting here, along with all the other usual suspects and 26 Snail Kites was a surprise. 

The egret roost...

The rest of the group found a few Red-winged Tinamous around the airport before we all met up for dinner.

Return to Trinidad, Bolivia.

We began the day with a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl in the spotlight prior to an early breakfast before saying our goodbyes to the amazing staff at the lodge. It had been basic, with 10 of us sharing 2 bathrooms, the hot conditions, but the food was excellent. Around the lodge we saw a flock of Dusky-headed Parakeets feeding on the grass, as well as a few White-eyed Parakeets and a pair of flyover Turquoise-fronted Amazons. Driving back to the main road a pair of Toco Toucans posed nicely on the top of a tree, a Swallow-tailed Hummingbird gave a great performance as it fed around a flowering bush and a pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaws flew low overhead.

Blue-and-yellow Macaw

Then we began the long drive back to Trinidad, stopping a few times to look at the amazing birdlife that the Llanos de Moxos provides. The first pond we stopped at held a group of feeding Large-billed Terns, as well as White-headed Marsh-Tyrant. Driving further along we called in a Striped Cuckoo that showed very well. 

Ash-coloured Cuckoo

White Monjita

The next pool was really productive with a group of Brazilian Teal and 2 Muscovy Ducks flying by, Yellow-bellied and Large Elaenia, a pair of cracking White Monjita, Ash-coloured Cuckoo, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Yellow-browed Tyrant and another Swallow-tailed Hummingbird.

Campo Flicker

Green-barred Woodpecker

 The rest of the dusty drive gave us Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, White-winged Swallowand Green Ibis. 

After lunch back at the lodge near Trinidad we drove to a nice gallery forest just outside of Trinidad where we came a cross a Unicolored Thrush singing away from its perch. 

Band-tailed Antbird

We also saw a pair of Band-tailed Antbirds, Streaked Flycatcher,Black-throated Mango, Buff-bellied Hermit, Grey-headed Tanager, Velvet-fronted Grackles, a couple of Night Monkeys and at the end of the day spotlighted a Tropical Screech-Owl. We also heard a distant Common Potoo and Common Pauraque as well.

Habana Ranch - El Cutal Ranch

Alarms rang at 4.30am for some of the group, whilst I eked out another 15 minutes in bed! Following breakfast we drove to El Habana and stopped along the way to seeRusty-collared Seedeater, Bay-winged Cowbird, Masked Gnatcatcher, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, and White-rumped Monjita. Of course all the usual species were seen along the highway such as Jabiru, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Whistling Heron, plus several Large-billed Terns. 

Upon arrival we had a little look around the open area and saw Black-billed Thrush, Palm Tanager, and Blue-headed Parrot flew by, before walking into the gallery forest. First birds seen were Ruddy Pigeon and Olivaceous Woodcreeper, before the first of many Black-tailed Trogons appeared. 

Band-tailed Manakin

A male Band-tailed Manakin showed well, as did White-eyed Attila and Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin. 

Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin

A Hauxwell’s Thrush put in an appearance. High up in the canopy a pair of Guira Tanagers joined Plain Inezia, with Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet and Forest Elaenia, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper coming lower to check us out. 

Forest Elaenia

A Blue-tailed Emerald was next up with first a female seen, shortly followed by a fine male, then a Streaked Xenops flew in. Upon reaching the lake, we saw our first Anhinga but apart from that it was really quiet, so we took a side trail and found Black-fronted Nunbird, more Black-tailed Trogons including a party of three birds, Blue-throated Piping-Guan and Little Cuckoo. 

Black-fronted Nunbird

Black-tailed Trogon

Walking back up the trail Jules found a Rufous Casiornis, an awesome Pale-crested Woodpecker gave walk away views, and a surprise find in the form of Ash-coloured Cuckoo was much appreciated by all. Driving back to our ranch a White Monjitawas spotted and our first Chalk-browed Mockingbird joined us for lunch.

Pale-crested Woodpecker

After lunch we drove further into El Cutal ranch land seeing Great Pampa-Finch, Blue and Ruddy Ground Doves, White-tailed Hawk, and some more Jabiru. 

Jabiru

A small pool held White-backed Stilt,Greater Yellowlegs and Solitary Sandpiper. We also saw Green Ibis, Pale-vented Pigeon, White-bellied Seedeater, and Nacunda Nighthawk. 

Nacunda Nighthawk

We arrived at a large lake where several Velvet-fronted Grackles were seen – this is soon to be split as Bolivian Grackle. 

Scissor-tailed Nightjar

At dusk we drove back to the lodge and the number of nightjars was phenomenal with Little and Scissor-tailed Nightjars and a Common Pauraque seen. 

Sunset at the lake

Trinidad - El Cutal Ranch

This was the day of our much-anticipated search for the Critically Endangered Blue-throated Macaw. We left early doors and drove out into the Llanos de Moxos, an area that is pretty much an extension of the Brazilian Pantanal. The first bird of the day was a Scissor-tailed Nightjar perched on the road just before daybreak. The scenery certainly looked exactly the same as the Pantanal and driving along in the early morning light we saw many Jabiru, lots of Rufescent Tiger-Herons, Whistling,Capped and Cocoi Herons, RoseateSpoonbills, Plumbeous Ibis, Black-collared and Savanna Hawks, Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Toco Toucan, Sunbittern and Black-backed Marsh-Tyrant. 

Rufescent Tiger-Heron

Sunbittern - not the best photo in the world....!

Other goodies seen included Plain-crowned Spinetail, Fuscous Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill, and Golden-green Woodpecker.

Upon arrival at the first macaw site we quickly scoped a pair of Blue-throated Macaws, and lapped up the views. This was our primary reason for coming all this way and everyone was truly elated to get such great views. We then drove across the bumpy plains to another site where we found another group of macaws. Also here were Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Peach-fronted Parakeets,Short-crested, Streaked and Brown-crested Flycatchers, Silver-beaked Tanager,Greater Thornbird, Lineated and a superb White Woodpecker.

Blue-throated Macaws were seen very well today

After lunch back at the lodge we set off into the Llanos de Moxos for some 3.5 hours to El Cutal Ranch. Along the way we saw many more of the typical Pantanal birds seen earlier in the day, as well as Green Kingfisher, Black-capped Donacobius, Unicoloured Blackbird, Crane Hawk, Large-billed Tern, Grey and White Monjitas, Lesser Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, and a pair of superb Red-and-green Macaws.

We reached the lodge at El Cutal ranch just before sunset.

Our base for the next few nights...

Birding at sunset on El Cutal Ranch

Santa Cruz - The Beni

The Botanical Gardens in Santa Cruz are a well known birding hotspot, which I was looking forward to visiting once again. Within a few minutes of arriving we were watching Amazonian Motmot and Blue-crowned Trogon beside the car park. 

Amazonian Motmot

Blue-crowned Trogon

The lake was full of Western Cattle Egrets, along with Great Egret, Cocoi Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, and we also saw Amazon and Ringed Kingfishers here as well. A Red-crested Finch also put in an appearance before we began our search of this wonderful habitat. Overhead, flocks of Red-shouldered Macaws were seen, whilst a few Dusky-headed Parakeets fed on a flowering tree beside the car park. 

Dusky-headed Parakeets

We walked inside and found Buff-throated and Black-banded Woodcreepers, a brief Limpkin, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Scaly-headed Parrot, Blue-winged Parrotlet, and best of all an extremely showy Bolivian Slaty Antshrike. We also saw Black-and-gold Howler Monkey, Black-tailed Marmoset, Brown Titi Monkey, Bolivian Squirrel, and 5 Three-toed Sloths.

Blue-winged Parrotlet

Bolivian Slaty Antshrike (male)

Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth

By the time we had returned to the car park it was 10.30am and getting rather hot, so we hung around in the shade for a little while and found a Southern Yellowthroat that proceeded to sing repeatedly from a few different exposed perched right in front of us. 

Southern Yellowthroat

There was also our first Rusty-margined Flycatcher and Shiny Cowbirds here as well. Then we drove to a restaurant for an early lunch before heading back to the airport for our early afternoon flight to Trinidad.

After an hour’s flight we arrived to the sweltering conditions and quickly transferred to a lodge on the outskirts of the town. We had an hour to chill out in the air-conditioned rooms before venturing out into the gardens where Scarlet Flycatcher and Hudson’s Black Tyrant were personal favourites. 

Hudson's Black Tyrant

Scarlet Flycatcher - a split from Vermillion Flycatcher

Other birds seen here included Grey-crested Cachalote, Greyish Saltator, Orange-backed Troupial, Common Tody Flycatcherand a Gilded Sapphire. Driving out across the wide open space of the Llanos de Moxos gave us Black-collared Hawk, Southern Screamer, 

immature Snail Kite

Southern Screamers

Snail Kite, Red-capped Cardinal, White-rumped Monjita, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Black-throated Mango, Brown-chested and Grey-breasted Martins, the soon-to-be-split Plain Softtail and Solitary Black Cacique. 

Rather frustratingly a Scissor-tailed Nightjar showed briefly as we drove back to the lodge, but we’d have to wait a bit longer for that one.