Bogota - Otun Quimbaya

We took a 7.30am flight to Pereira and upon arrival met up with our trusty driver Hermes, and drove for around an hour towards Otun Quimbaya. We made a few stops along the way to scan the fast-flowing Otun River and after a few stops found the hoped-for Torrent Duck. A pair were feeding on the shady side of the river and we really enjoyed nice views in the scope. 

Torrent Duck

We also saw a few Torrent Tyrannulets, White-collared Swifts, Thick-billed Euphonia, Scrub Tanager and a Green-fronted Lancebill for myself and Vera. It was much warmer today than we had previously experienced so it was nice to get to the isolated Research Station where would spend the night. A quick walk around the gardens before lunch in the restaurant gave us a pair of stunning (and I know I use that word a lot) Flame-rumped Tanagers, Tropical Pewee, Southern Rough-winged Swallow and a nesting pair of Pale-edged Flycatchers. 

Pale-edged Flycatcher

After a nice meal we spent the afternoon walking along the road and found birding to be slow overall, although we did find some great birds. So we began with an Andean Motmot spotted by Lia, before Rob picked up our first of several Red-ruffed Fruitcrows. What a bird! 

Red-ruffed Fruitcrow

Next up was an obliging Chestnut-breasted Wren singing away from his perch beside the road and what you can only say is ‘showing well’. 

Chestnut-breasted Wren

We walked for a couple of kilometres at which point we decided to head back, but just at that moment a Multicoloured Tanager was spotted and it duly flew away before everyone could get on it. So we raced around the corner to see if we could relocate it but needless to say it was nowhere to be seen. We heard both Golden-headed Quetzal and Stiles’s Tapaculo before walking back around the corner. Here we had a lot of activity with lots of birds, most of which skulked in the dense foliage and it was impossible for everyone to see everything. However, there was Variegated Bristle-Tyrant, Black-billed Peppershrike, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Greenish Puffleg, Common Bush-Tanager, and some flyover Bronze-winged Parrots and Neil even had a glimpse of another Multicoloured Tanager. The walk back to the research station was enlivened by a group of endemic Cauca Guans, whilst a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird was in the garden.

Colombian Screech-Owl

After dinner a few of us went owling and what a productive hour we had, as first of all a Colombian Screech-Owl was found beside the road. Then a throw away comment from Rob about Mottled Owl resulted in one flying in within 30 seconds of its call being played!

Mottled Owl

And we finished off with a close Tropical Screech-Owl. 

Tropical Screech-Owl

Oh and an Opossum and a confiding Crab-eating Fox were also seen tonight.

Chingaza National Park - Observatory des Kolibris

We headed up to the dizzy heights of 3500m at Chingaza National Park this morning. But on the way up we made a few stops in the remnant patches of cloud forest, picking up some goodies along the way. I wouldn’t place White-throated Tyrannuletin that bracket but this was the first bird of the day, quickly followed by Pale-naped Brush-Finch, several Glossyand Masked Flowerpiercers, and a perched Coppery-bellied Puffleg. 

Coppery-bellied Puffleg

A short drive higher and we were getting up close and personal with a pair of Andean Guansthat flew down to take a look at us, but even they were eclipsed by a group of absolutely stunning Black-chested Mountain-Tanagers. Around the next bend the endemic Golden-fronted Whitestartappeared briefly, but the endemic Silvery-throated Spinetailshowed much better. A little higher up the road again and we came across a nice flock with White-browed Spinetail, Black-crested Warbler, Slaty Brushfinchand Blue-backed Conebillall seen well. As we drove higher the scenery was truly spectacular with mountain peaks appearing out of the cloud and we were distracted from this splendour only by the not-so-splendid Plumbeous Sierra-Finch.

Once at the entrance to the National Park we began walking along the road and quickly found the first of several Bronze-tailed Thornbills seen this morning. There was also Glowing Puffleg, Tyrian Metaltail, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Crowned Chat-Tyrant, and a brief Blue-throated Starfrontlet. 

Glowing Puffleg

Crowned Chat-Tyrant

As the mist came and went and we enjoyed some drizzle we hit one of those purple patches that you get once in a while, although I’m hoping for many more on this trip! At a bend in the road we could look over the lush habitat of dwarf trees, moss-covered ground, epiphytes and bushes. All of a sudden Jose said he could see a Plushcap, one of the most wanted birds for my group. 

Plushcap

After a little panic when directions were given and the birds promptly disappeared from view for a minute or two we thankfully were treated to repeated views of a pair of stunners feeding below us. Wow! Then a pair of Rufous-browed Conebills gave mind-blowing views, a couple of Pale-naped Brush-Finches lingered in front of us, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager just wanted to have his photo taken and a Brown-backed Chat-Tyrantwas seen. With just Rob and I neglecting the draw of a hot cup of coffee in the nearby restaurant, our vigil in the rain paid of with an Andean Pygmy-Owl being invited to join us. Fortunately it lingered long enough for everyone to get on it and we lapped up the views in the scope. 

Rufous-browed Conebill

Pale-naped Brushfinch

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager

Andean Pygmy-Owl

Driving back along the road we walked up onto one of the hillsides where we had a great views of a narrow valley which was a good spot to scan for Green-bearded Helmetcrest. Only Rob had seen this bird so far and we were mad for it! Unfortunately the thick mist came in shortly after our arrival and apart from a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Many-striped Canastero and a close Bronze-tailed Thornbill we had little else in the short time here so walked back to the bus . 

Bronze-tailed Thornbill

We made one further stop in the increasingly bad weather during which time we herd a White-chinned Thistletail calling back at us from close by but by now the weather was ‘pea soup’ so we decided to head lower and find better weather. We did this very quickly and spent a little more time walking along the road and found a thistletail feeding on the hillside above us. Apart from a Mattoral Tapaculo calling we had little else so headed to a nearby restaurant for lunch.

Blue-throated Starfrontlet

The afternoon was spent at Observatorio des Colibries just a short drive away – and what a great couple of hour we were treated to as we enjoyed 13 species of hummingbird visiting the feeders here. Pride of place went to a pair of stunning Blue-throated Starfrontlets, although a majestic Sword-billed Hummingbird was awesome. 

Sword-billed Hummingbird

A pair of Gorgeted Woodstars appeared a few times amidst the numerous White-bellied Woodstars, whilst Mountain Velvetbreast also came in just a few times. 

White-bellied Woodstar

We also saw Great Sapphirewing, both Coppery-bellied and Glowing Pufflegs, Green-tailed and Black-tailed Trainbearers, Lesser and Sparkling Violetears, and a few Tyrian Metaltails were also present. 

Great Sapphirewing

Glowing Puffleg

Black-tailed Trainbearer

Black-tailed Trainbearer

Green-tailed Trainbearer

Both Black and Glossy Flowerpiercerswere also in the garden but really we only had eyes for the hummers. 

Black Flowerpiercer

La Florida - Pedro Palo

Our international group from the UK, New Zealand, South Africa and USA were finally all together and we set out early doors to La Florida wetlands this morning. This is one of the best places to see Bogota Rail and we enjoyed fine views of several birds both along the path to the hide and also some more distant birds from the hide. It took a little while to see our first one but after that we were treated to better and better views. We also saw Andean Duck, American Coot, Blue-winged Teal, many Bare-faced Ibis, Southern Lapwing, Grey-breasted Martin, Carib Grackle and several Yellow-hooded Blackbirds. 

Bogota Rail

We left here and headed through the infamous Bogota traffic to Pedro Palo an area of rolling hills and remnant patches of forest and even a lake. We walked along the road for around 2.5kms to a house where we enjoyed a fantastic lunch. The road was quite productive and we began with a showy Tropical Mockingbird before noticing the trees and bushes were alive with tanager. Literally the first bird was a Metallic-green Tanager that eluded most of the group but more and more birds kept appearing. The common and widespread Palm and Blue-grey Tanagers were next up, but there was also Blue-necked, Black-capped, several Crimson-backed, Lemon-rumped and lots of Scrub Tanagers. It was an exciting session as we followed the flock up the road. At a sharp bend in the road the birds seemed to halt and began to feed in some quite low trees giving better views and we saw Mountain Elaenia, Crowned Woodnymph, Rusty-margined Flycatcher,Red-billed Emerald, Montane Woodcreeper, Brown-capped Vireo, Bay-headed Tanager, Streaked Saltator, Yellow-bellied Elaenia and best of all, Rufous-naped Greenlet.

Continuing our walk we saw a few Streaked Xenops, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, several Golden-faced Tyrannulets, Azara’s Spinetail, and a large flock of White-collared and Chestnut-collared Swifts. The next patch of forest was quite dense and we managed to pull out Plain Antvireoand Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant. Moving on, Yellow-backed Oriole showed nicely, a Rusty Flowerpiercer was new, and an Acorn Woodpecker appeared just as we reached an overlook above the lake. 

Golden-faced Tyrannulet

Yellow-backed Oriole

In the surrounding roadside trees Plain Xenops, Tropical Parula, Flame-faced Tanager, Red-crowned Woodpecker and Olivaceous Piculet showed well. The fields next to our lunch site held Saffron Finch, many Yellow-bellied Seedeaters, Lesser Goldfinch, Smooth-billed Aniand a few Spectacled Parrotlets. But we were more interested in the stunning endemic Turquoise Dacnis feeding in a tree out in the fields – what a bird!

Lunch was surprising good and we overindulged a bit but by lingering here we bumped into another flock with all the same tanagers etc but this time added Streak-necked Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Flycatcher and a cracking Red-headed Barbet to our list. An endemic Black Inca was also seen here by a few of the group. Walking back to meet the minibus was a bit tiring but was enlivened by Beryl-spangled Tanager, an obliging Grey-breasted Wood-Wren and Moustached Brushfinch. 

Colombia At Last: Chicaque National Park

Today was simply an arrival day, but with a 4am arrival for some of us and Martin & Lia

already in Bogota following their long flight from Johannesburg we decided to make the best of it. Our excellent guide, Jose Castano, had some time ago suggested we go to Chicaque National Park for the day, so that’s what we did but not before picking up some items for breakfast and some much-needed coffee. It was just getting light as we arrived on site and for a change the first bird of the trip wasn’t House Sparrow but Eastern Meadowlark! We quickly got ourselves organised, donned birding gear, bins and camera and we were off down the lane that was bordered on one side by open forest and the other by meadows. For the first hour we walked maybe only 75 yards seeing several Blue-capped Tanagers, a pair of Black-crested Warblers, lots of Great Thrushes, a pair of White-throated Tyrannulets,  and a stunning pair 

of Rufous-browed Conebills. A Superciliaried Hemispingus then appeared, followed by a beautiful Pale-naped Brushfinch, and a group of Yellow-backed Orioles. 

Pale-naped Brushfinch

All that within touching distance of the minibus. Walking a little further a Glowing Puffleg appeared right beside us, and then the first of many Black Flowerpiercers, followed by the equally common Masked Flowerpiercer and a stunning little Coppery-bellied Puffleg. More and more flowerpiercers were present and we spotted a White-sided Flowerpiercer in a close flowering tree just before a Blackish Tapaculo began calling. A quick burst from the iPhone and it came straight in, probably too close and way too quick for everyone to see well unfortunately. 

A little further down the lane and a pair of Blue-black Tanagers were feeding low down in some bushes, a pair of Brown-bellied Swallows were quartering the fields, a Mountain Elaenia came in, a Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager positively glowed in the early morning sunshine and our first Black-billed Thrush appeared. Phew! Birds were coming thick and fast now. Our first Sparkling Violetears then appeared and a pair of endemic Silvery-throated Spinetails showed well after a short search. Just then a few Common Chlorospingus came into view and a small flock held several Black-capped and Beryl-spangled Tanagers, Black-eared Hemispingus, Golden-bellied Starfrontlet and Tourmaline Sunangel.

At the restaurant there were quite a few hummers present at the feeders which initially all appeared to be Sparkling Violetears. But as we sipped our coffee it was apparent there were some Lesser Violetears as well. As time went on a stunning Golden-bellied Starfrontlet came in, along with Collared Inca, Tyrian Metaltail, Tourmaline Sunangel and a tiny White-bellied Woodstar.

Golden-bellied Starfrontlet

After enjoying this we began the walk down the hill to the next restaurant, which turned out to be a paved path for quite a way and then onto a paved road and finally a trail through excellent forest. Initially things were quiet apart from a little group towards the top that held a few Moustached Brushfinches, a Slaty Brushfinch that almost snuck past us and a Bluish Flowerpiercer. Further down we saw several Grey-throated (formerly Emerald) Toucanets, a few Grey-browed Brushfinches, Rufous Spinetail, Russet-crowned Warbler, more Black-eared Hemispingus, an endemic Black Inca, Speckled Hummingbird and had fine looks at an Andean Solitaire– all in one flock. There were long quiet spells when we didn’t see a bird but when the weather is this sunny you just have to find the flocks… and we did. A Yellow-legged Thrush eluded some of us and a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta was glimpsed by two of us to add to our slight frustrations but a couple Striped Treehunters were much appreciated.

Once on the trail we well and truly nailed Spillmann’s Tapaculo, when one individual literally ran over my right boot before calling away from a couple of semi-exposed perches. Then we hit another flock with Fawn-breasted Tanagers, several Montane Foliage-Gleaners, Montane Woodcreeper, Grey-breasted Wood-Wrens, and a couple of close Three-striped Warblers. Overhead some White-tipped Swifts were seen and from the refuge’s restaurant we had even better view of them, along with Chestnut-collared Swifts. A Brown-capped Vireo was seen during our late lunch and after some much-needed food we walked back along the trail to meet our 4-wheel drive that was going to take us back uphill to our minibus. 

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta

Along the way a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta decided to start singing back at us from a large rock and what a cracker this was, and after hearing maybe 20 birds today to actually see one this well was mind-blowing. A pair of Chestnut-capped Brushfinches were practically ignored by the antpitta paparazzi as well. And that was our day.

Monsoon India - The Final Days

So on Day 13 we headed across Tso Kar to the place where we had heard the snowcock calling yesterday evening, assuming it was going to be Himalayan. After a while of playing the call Keith spotted one perched against the sky and it proved to be a Tibetan Snowcock and as we watched through the scope he was joined by another adult and 2 youngsters. We then found another pair calling further to our right and they flew across the hillside in front of us and began calling as well. It was a great moment. I’ve not seen any other trip reports saying they’ve seen Tibetan Snowcock here. From here we walked along the road and checked out some bushes, where we found a Brown Accentor that quickly flew away. We also saw a Golden Eagle here.

Robin Accentor

Brown Accentor

After breakfast back at the lodge we drove up through a valley at the far end of Tso Kar and checked out some more bushes, finding another Brown Accentor but little else. Higher up at 4900m around a small Tibetan settlement we saw Guldenstadt’s Redstart, Great Rosefinch, Robin Accentor and all the usual suspects. 

Tibetan Wolf

By now it was 2pm so we decided to head back to the lodge as it was so hot and the sun was very strong, but as we neared the lodge our driver spotted a black Tibetan Wolf loping across the hill to our right and we stopped to get decent views of this amazing animal.

Day 14   TSO KAR  - LEH

We left early doors and headed out of Tso Kar a different way, although we’d already spotted a Carrion (Oriental) Crow near the restaurant at breakfast. New birds were thin on the ground with Goosander (Common Merganser) being the only new bird for the trip, although Brown Accentor and Great Rosefinch were seen. We drove back to Leh through a dramatic landscape of huge, towering peaks etc

Day 15   LEH – DELHI - SURAJPUR

Flew back to Delhi early doors and headed straight to Surajpur wetlands again. 

Bristled Grassbird

This time we well and truly nailed Bristled Grassbird straight away, which made up for the first day dip! 

And that was a wrap and conclusion of a really enjoyable and successful tour.