Amazonia NP - The Gift That Keeps on Giving!

We birded the Gameleira Trail this morning, arriving at the viewpoint overlooking the Rio Tapajos at sunrise, which was rather spectacular.  As soon as we entered the trail a White-crested Guan was seen in a large tree showing well in the sunlight. 

White-crested Guan

Once we had walked in further we came across a flock that held Saturnine Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren, a few Rufous-rumped Foliage-Gleaners, an Amazonian Trogon, a very brief Xingu Scale-backed Antbird, Plain-throated Antwren and Yellow-throated Woodpecker. We spent quite some time with this group before walking on until we heard some Golden Parakeets flying over. 

Golden Parakeet - mega!

Quick as ever, Pablo fired off the call and the birds seemed to have perched up nearby as we could still hear one or two calls. After a few minutes of walking quietly closer we came directly beneath the tree we thought they were in and through a few small gaps in the canopy could see some incredibly bright yellow blobs above us. And there they were. Wow! Golden Parakeets in all their glory and what a stunner! Moving on we had Rufous Motmot, Plumbeous Pigeon, some Red-necked Aracaris, Green-backed Trogon, Chestnut Woodpecker, Rusty-belted Tapaculo and a cracking Snow-capped Manakin before walking back towards the entrance of the trail. 

Long-winged Antwren

Rufous Motmot

The return walk gave us Long-winged Antwren, Spix’s Warbling Antbird, Reddish Hermit, White-flanked Antwren, Cinereous Antshrike, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant and a female Fiery-tailed Awlbill. What a morning. Amazonia National Park really is the gift that keeps on giving.

 

We spent the afternoon along the Trans-Amazonica Highway looking for fruiting trees and potential sites to stake-out for White-tailed Cotinga. No cotingas were forthcoming but we did find a large fruiting tree that we watched for several hours, during which time we saw our one and only Red-headed Manakin, and our first Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Black-necked Aracari. Other species coming in to feed included Spangled Cotinga, Dusky-chested Flycatcher, Channel-billed Toucan, many Blue-headed Parrots, Gould’s Toucanet and Santarem Parakeets. 

Channel-billed Toucan

We also noted flyby Scarlet Macaws and Southern Mealy Amazons, with a group of White-crested Guans feeding in another tree just a short distance along the road. 

Tawny-bellied Screech Owl

A spot of owling on the return journey to the lodge resulted in fantastic views of Southern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl to round off another superb day in Amazonia National Park.

Amazonia National Park - a Mega Day!

Our first full day in Amazonia National Park was one we all looked forward to immensely. And after a 5am breakfast we were soon in the bus and off up the road into the park, however things didn’t quite go according to plan as the bus broke down. Whilst the driver fitted a new cam belt I played a few random owl calls and amazingly called in a pair of Spectacled Owls who posed beautifully in a large cecropia tree on the slope above us. 

Spectacled Owls

After around half an hour we were on our way once more and as the day got lighter we saw a pair of Razor-billed Curassows walking along the side of the road, and shortly after Gilberto spotted a group of White-crested Guans in a tree next to the road. So we all jumped out and had superb views of up to 3 individuals. 

White-crested Guan

Upon arrival at the Capelinha Trail, which is the farthest of the trails visited, we began walking and spent a good couple of hours seeing some very, very good birds before the ridiculous noise from the cicadas made it impossible to hear any birdsong! Anyway, we got proceedings under way with a Spot-winged Antshrike high in the canopy over the trail, followed by a pair of Spix’s Warbling Antbirds, before walking briskly to a stake-out for Black-bellied Gnateater. Upon arrival, Gilberto proceeded to set up a temporary blind before playing the call once. And in popped the bird. And what a beast! Think of a gnateatear and you immediately picture a tiny round ball of feathers difficult to pick up in the gloomy understorey. Not this beast as its huge and obvious and sat out in the open for a good few minutes, moving from exposed perch to exposed perch for us before exiting stage left and leaving us with happy, smiley, gormless faces!

Black-bellied Gnateater

Buoyed with our success we continued walking further into the forest , seeing bits and pieces such as Broad-billed Motmot, White-fronted Nunbird until we crossed a small stream and Gilberto pointed out a totally awesome White-browed Hawk perched above us. What a bird! At this point the cicada noise grew incredibly loud prompting Pablo to suggest we go elsewhere and our return hike to the bus was enlivened with a Long-tailed Woodcreeper and another Rufous-necked Puffbird.

White-browed Hawk

So we drove to the Park HQ to look for Flame-crowned Manakin, which took all of 5 minutes to find and then wandered along a trail for a little way not expecting to find much in the heat. But a Natterer’s Slaty Antshrike was called in, along with a Ruddy Spinetail at the same spot. And then we became aware there was a fruiting tree next to us and stacks of birds began flying in. Some noisy Dusky-chested Flycatchers were joined by Ochre-bellied, Yellow-breasted and a Streaked Flycatcher, a Forest Elaenia, a Red-legged Honeycreeper appeared, 3 gorgeous Red-necked Aracari’s flew in, an immature Spangled Cotinga appeared, and 3 Santarem Parakeets were spotted quietly feeding right above us. The last new bird here was a White-necked Jacobin before we decided to return to the lodge for lunch. What a morning!

Flame-crowned Manakin

If anything, we raised the quality level this afternoon beginning with a pair of Brown-chested Barbets perched high up above us along a trail, with a Gould’s Toucanet at the same spot. Just around the corner a Banded Antbird performed admirably right in front of us, an Elegant Woodcreeper flew in and then things got really interesting. 

Banded Antbird

A Harlequin Antbird began calling just up ahead and we walked off the trail and tried to make ourselves a little more inconspicuous. After a short wait we located it calling away from a horizontal branch amongst some leafy bushes about 30 feet away. Wow! 

Harlequin Antbird - poor record shot but wow! What a bird!

As we walked back to the bus Vulturine Parrot called from high up in the canopy and after a bit of manoeuvring we had excellent views of this speciality. 

Vulturine Parrot

Back out on the road we had a Dark-billed Cuckoo and Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, before dropping into another side trail where Amazonian Antpitta popped up onto some horizontal vines right in front of us in the fading light and by the nearby bridge a Rufescent Tiger-Heron was stood beside a small waterfall. I can tell you we celebrated with a few caipirinhas this evening!

AMAZING AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK

With the main tour over it was time for the exciting extension to Amazonia National Park, which entailed a short 1h 15 mins flight to Itaituba where we arrived at 10.30am, met our driver and local guide Gilberto and drove just over an hour along a rather bumpy road to Pousada Portal Lodge. It was definitely hotter here but less humid thankfully and after dropping our bags into our rooms we had a quick look around the gardens that adjoin the huge Rio Tapajos. We were pleased to see White-banded and Black-collared Swallows flying around in front of us, and we scoped a Black Caracara across the river as well. After lunch we sat discussing the possibilities that lay ahead and noted Yellow-bellied Elaenia and Glittering-throated Emerald in the trees in front of us before retiring to our rooms for a siesta.

 

At 3.30pm we set off and drove just under half an hour to the Acalzal Trail where we began walking into the forest, seeing a Great Jacamar almost immediately. Nearby a pair of superb Spix’s Warbling Antbirds responded almost immediately to the tape and we enjoyed nice looks at them before continuing our walk. At a shady section of canopy we got to grips initially with a White-eyed Stipplethroat before Pablo declared that there was also a pair of  Ornate Stipplethroats above us as well. We spent quite a while getting to grips with both species although mainly getting underpart views made it decidedly tricky. Within a hundred metres Gilberto was pointing to a looping vine not far away that had an absolutely awesome Rufous-necked Puffbird perched on it. Wow! 

Rufous-necked Puffbird - stunner!

But the best was yet to come as a bit further on an Alta Floresta Antpitta began calling, so we knuckled down for a game of cat-and-mouse which was eventually rewarded with everyone getting eyeballs on this absolute stonker!  So by now it was 5.45pm and we headed back to the road, stopping along the way when a pair of Plain-throated Antwrens appeared and an Elegant Woodcreeper was spotted, along with a pair of Red-stained Woodpeckers to round off a brilliant bit of afternoon trail birding. 

 

Out on the main park road we called in to the HQ to register our permits and took in the amazing view across the Rio Tapajos, before checking out a marshy area at dusk where a colony of Olive Oropendolas were present in a large tree. There was also a pair of Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, and a Short-tailed Nighthawk flew over us. We celebrated our antpitta success tonight with Caipirinhas and beer before calling it a night.

Manaus Tour is Ending....

Our last day was something of a short one as we had to get Chris & Ian to Manaus airport for early afternoon, so we had just a couple of hours birding. We met at 6am and walked along the entrance road a short way, where luckily we had a couple sightings of Little Chachalaca as it flew over us on several occasions. And then we headed for the white sand forest and our latest battle with Pelzeln’s Tody-tyrant. Well the bird won again so some of the group headed to the Capuchinbird lek site and enjoyed fantastic views of up to 8 birds, whilst myself, Chris and David stayed on for more punishment with Mr Pelzeln’s. However, this time after a protracted wait we actually saw the little bugger and returned to the dining area for a hearty breakfast in high spirits. That just left a quick shower, pack and load the minibus for the 90 minute drive back to Manaus. Dropping the guys off at the airport and then into the airport hotel for lunch and a nice long rest to prepare ourselves for the exciting days to come at Amazonia National Park.

Here's a selection of other photos not used so far.... 

Blackish-grey Antshrike from our Rio Negro boat trip

Crested Oropendola

Flame-crested Tanager from the ZF2 Tower....

Fork-tailed Flycatcher from Marchanteria Island

Great Black Hawk over the Rio Negro

Ivory-billed Aracari from the Rio Negro

Leaden Antwren showing well on our Rio Negro boat trip

Plumbeous Kite showing well over the Rio Negro

Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo in the early morning mist - from the ZF2 Tower

White-winged Parakeet from Marchanteria Island

Zimmer's (Yellow-margined) Flatbill from the ZF2 Tower

Zimmer's Woodcreeper from our Rio Negro boat ride inside Anavilhanus National Park 

White Sand Forest Birding

A singing Bright-rumped Attila was the first bird of the day as we walked to one of the pousada’s trails at 6am, followed by a pair of Guianan Warbling Antbirds and a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner beside the road. Walking up to the trail we stopped beside a large fruiting tree where several White-throated Manakins were feeding high up above us and we spent some time trying to improve on our views before entering the dark and gloomy trail. This was a little quiet and the only bird of note seen was a Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant, so we returned to the lodge for a great breakfast during which we saw Buff-throated Saltator on the bird table, plus Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Sulphury Flycatcher, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Spangled Cotinga, and the regular Grey-breasted Sabrewing at the feeder.

Yellow-crowned Manakin

Heading out to trails in the white sand forest this afternoon we saw Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin again before getting scorching views of Yellow-crowned Manakin. It was just a shame that the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t appear again.  We tried the Capuchinbird arena but only heard it.  

So after lunch and a rest we tried again for the tody-tyrant without any joy before heading to the Capuchinbird stake-out, but only hearing it distantly once again. A close Spotted Puffbird was at least some form of compensation from our birdless walk so far! 

Spotted Puffbird

So we walked back to the lodge only for Pablo to say he was going to get some help from the lodge and make a path towards where the Capuchinbird was calling from and we were to continue birding. After some time he returned and said he’d found their newly relocated lekking area and if we wanted to see them then we would have to race back as the sun was setting beyond the horizon. So some of us dashed back through the forest and sure enough we did see several very weird-looking, but totally awesome Capuchinbirds overhead and heard their weird calls to round off the day.

ANOTHER CRIMSON FRUITCROW DOESN'T MAKE A SUMMER!

Boy was it a tough, slow morning’s birding today. We left our pousada at 5am and drove for around an hour to a wide forest track that passes through great forest – Pablo has even seen Harpy Eagle here in the past, so it must be good right? Well we started off with a calling Red-throated Caracara and Golden-green Woodpecker, followed by Black-headed Antbird and a cracking female Black-throated Antshrike. Just around the corner a Blackish Nightjar was flying around in broad daylight, but it wasn’t until our return that we found out why, as it had a nest right beside the track with a single egg in. But from here on in we struggled to see much at all. That being said another Crimson Fruitcrow was found in a tree above us and was about a mile closer than the pair from the canopy tower yesterday! The next few hours were hard and all we saw was Yellow-throated and Ruddy-tailed Flycatchers, Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Black-tailed Trogon, Black Nunbird, Chestnut Woodpecker, Bat Falcon, Screaming Piha, White Hawk and a pair of Guianan Puffbirds.

 

After lunch and a siesta back at the pousada we walked a nearby trail for a few hours and dug out two absolute corkers. First up was a Ferruginous-backed Antbird that walked along a mossy fallen trunk just a few feet away from us, and then a short while later a Wing-banded Wren performed in the same manner. So we headed back for an earlier dinner as it was approaching beer o’clock!

Birding Magic from the ZF2 Tower

This was a much-anticipated day as we were visiting the famous ZF2 canopy tower. It was something of a surprise when our local guide, Pablo, told us last night that we’d need to check out of the hotel at 3.30am bags and all..!! Ouch! Well, we did and were on the road pretty promptly heading more or less in a northerly direction out of Manaus for about 75 minutes before pulling over on a side road. Here a trio of 4-wheel drive trucks were waiting to meet us and take us to the tower. It was an interesting 40 minute drive through the forest as the dirt road was very muddy and slippery and several timers we went sideways as the wheels lost traction, but we all made it unscathed in the end. We had a picnic breakfast at the base of the tower and waited for it to get light before walking up to the top of the 42-metre canopy tower, only to find the whole area enshrouded in mist. A frustrating hour followed as the light gradually increased and the mist thinned out a little. The first bird of the day seen was a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers almost directly below us, followed by scope views of several calling White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans. Then Pablo drew our attention to a very close Glossy-backed Becard in the canopy of a tree right next to the tower and was almost at eye-level. 

Black-faced Dacnis

A flurry of activity ensued with male Black-faced Dacnis, Golden-winged Parakeet in the scope, a close calling Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, and a superb Ash-winged Antwren. Phew! Then a Guianan Toucanet was scoped, quickly followed by a Southern Mealy Amazon. 

Guianan Toucanet

Another quick flurry of new sightings followed with Yellow-throated Flycatcher, White-lored Tyrannulet, close Flame-crested Tanager, a male Black-capped Becard, Olive-green Tyrannulet, and a fine male Spot-backed Antwren. Pausing for breath we noticed the swifts flying around us at eye-level didn’t have pale rumps and were Chapman’s Swifts, and whilst watching them a Versicoloured Emerald was spotted feeding around a flowering tree below us. David scoped a pair of Blue-headed Parrots shortly after, before Pablo called in a superb Painted Tody-Flycatcher into one of the trees closest to us and just before a group of Marail Guans were found – and they eventually provided fantastic looks through the scope. 

Marail Guan

The activity slowed down somewhat from 9am but a steady stream of notable sightings kept us going, and next up was a Grey Elaenia, followed by Paradise Tanager, and the first of many, many Pompadour Cotingas. A great pair of Golden-collared Woodpeckers appeared below us, along with a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, and just before one of the closet trees yielded Guianan Tyrannulet and Zimmer’s (Yellow-margined) Flatbill. 

Golden-collared Woodpeckers

Guianan Tyrannulet

A distant Red-throated Caracara was scoped before a group of Green Aracaris appeared, and David spotted both King Vulture and White Hawk perched in the canopy at some distance away. Pablo called in Black Nunbird, several Red-and-green Macaws flew around, a Double-toothed Kite soared overhead, Paradise Jacamar was scoped, a Black-bellied Cuckoo showed well along with a Yellow-green Grosbeak. But the star bird was undoubtedly Crimson Fruitcrow, a pair of which were scoped at length on a forested ridge to the west. What a bird and the cherry on top of a superb morning’s cake!

Black-bellied Cuckoo

Green Aracari

After an ‘interesting’ drive back along the slippery road we made it to our waiting minibus within 80 minutes and were soon on the road towards Presidente Figueraido, getting delayed by a car accident en-route. So we eventually arrived at our pousada where we’d be staying for the next 3 nights at a little after 2pm and went straight down to the restaurant. Later in the afternoon we walked a short distance out into the forest where we had unbelievably close views of Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. At first we walked past two stunningly bright orange birds within 5 metres of the path who had formed a satellite lek. 

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock.... you get the idea.... awesome!

The main lek was another few hundred metres further on where over 11 males were displaying. It’s an almost unbelievable experience to witness with several males literally sitting on the forest floor and their strange calls echoing through the forest. Wow! We spent some time with these beauties before birding our way the short distance back to the lodge and notched up some really good birds. First of all a Northern Slaty-Antshrike sang above us and allowed good views, then a Bronzy Jacamar gave itself up easily, and we followed this with the bizarre Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin and a Black Manakin. It was just a shame the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t come in. 

Spangled Cotinga

Back at the lodge we enjoyed some cold drinks whilst scanning the fruiting trees at the back of the restaurant where we saw White-necked Thrush and a fantastic Spangled Cotinga enjoying the bounty. Our search for Little Chachalaca proved fruitless but a few flyover Green Oropendolas kept our list ticking over nicely!