Khao Yai - Petchaburi

Back into Khao Yai for a few hours this morning and after a picnic breakfast in one of the campgrounds (and guarding our food against a gang of Pig-tailed Macaques intent on mugging us) we walked along the road and into a beautiful valley. Well, we finally found some woodpeckers (where have they been..?) with Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape and a fine Laced Woodpecker showing well. Just a shame a Greater Yellownape didn’t play ball. Undoubtedly bird of the morning was the stunning male Banded Kingfisher sitting over the road In the morning sunshine, totally oblivious to our presence. 

Banded Kingfisher - male

Things were going very well so far, with Hainan Blue and Hill Blue Flycatchers being seen, along with Crested Goshawk, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Pin-striped Tit-babblers, Radde’s Warbler and Green-billed Malkoha also showing well. Leaving here we headed out of the park, stopping at our usual site to connect with Van Hasselt’s and Crimson Sunbirds easily, and there was also our first Black-capped Kingfisher and a Striated Heron as well.

We then set out on the long drive to Petchaburi, which took 5 hours with a lunch stop and spent the last couple of hours in the middle of the patchwork of drainage channels, rice-fields and marshes. We thoroughly enjoyed being out in this open country and at the first lake had 30+ Grey-headed Lapwings, Purple Heron, Intermediate Egret, Marsh Sandpiper and lots of other common species. Across the road Phil found a Yellow Bittern, whist a tree full of Pink-necked Green-pigeons looked really nice in the lovely afternoon sunshine. 

Pink-necked Green-Pigeons

We particularly liked the male Siberian Rubythroat, but there was also Cotton Pygmy-Goose, both jacanas, Brahminy and Black-eared Kites, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Blue-throated and Little Green Bee-eaters, Germain’s Swiftlet, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Oriental Reed and Black-browed Reed Warblers, Baya Weaver and Asian Pied Starling.

Khao Yai - Day 2

Drove back into Khao Yai at 6pm and went right the way across the park and headed up to the Army checkpoint, seeing an Orange-headed Thrush in the road, before stopping at the top of Radar Road. We were almost the first people here and before we'd even finished parking saw a couple of Black-throated Laughingthrushes feeding on the road right in front of one of the Thai sentries! So we quickly hopped out and over the course of a good half an hour thoroughly enjoyed outstanding views of these usually secretive birds. 

Black-throated Laughingthrush

There was a distinct chill in the air this morning but the constant appearance of new birds meant we were rather distracted until the sun appeared over the hill. Next up was a beautiful Common Green Magpie, followed by perched views of Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Black-throated Sunbird, a close Grey-backed Shrike and stunning views of two Radde's Warblers. 

Grey-backed Shrike

Radde's Warbler

Leaving here we drove back downhill and walked for a few hours along the road, which was pretty quiet to be honest despite calling in a pair of Banded Broadbills right next to us. They are such stunners and continuing the theme of this tour, we spent quite a while admiring their intricate plumage and simply enjoying the bird. 

Banded Broadbill

Shortly after a Blue Pitta called and amazingly everyone had nailed the beauty within a couple of minutes before it melted away again into the forest. Sounds easy doesn't it? Well we got lucky as the bird remained motionless in one spot for a couple of minutes - and that doesn't happen too often! I was also pleased to see a Claudia's Warbler clambering around a dense tangle by the road - this is one of a number of tricky phylloscopus warblers to be found in Thailand. Following this we walked a trail for half an hour and got lucky with a pair of Black-and-buff Woodpeckers perched overhead.

After lunch we drove to one of the campsites which was now empty and scoped a Blue-eared Barbet high up in a tree. There was also Little Spiderhunter, an Arctic Warbler, Two-barred Warbler and a Yellow-browed Warbler present, along with Taiga Flycatcher, Fire-breasted, Thick-billed and Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers. It was then that we got some news of a Buffy Fish-owl being seen earlier in the day and dashed to the area where the bird had been but there was nothing there. But we did get views of Striated Heron and Oriental Pied Hornbill. 

Blue-eared Barbet

Thick-billed Green-pigeon

All rather frustrating really, so we returned to the campsite a found a small fruiting tree with a few Thick-billed Green-pigeons and Blue-eared Barbets in it. We had stunning views once again and I cannot remember being this close to these two species before.  Then we spent the last hour and a half staking out the back of the restaurant in a half-hearted hope of seeing a ground-cuckoo which had allegedly been seen a week ago there. An Orange-headed Thrush was very nice, as was a male Red Junglefowl, Blue Whistling-thrush, Pale-legged Leaf-warbler and Siberian Blue Robin. Heather also spotted a Greater Flameback in a large tree as well.

At the end of the day, as we were driving to the hotel, Nick spotted 3 Brown-backed Needletails circling over one of the lakes and we watched them for several minutes as they came down to drink. 

Thailand - Khao Yai National Park

It’s great to be back in Thailand once again and having met up with Nigel, Daryl, Jeff & Heather late last night we were all assembled at 5.30am and ready for the drive towards Khao Yai. We had a lovely clear blue sky to see us on our way and after an hour and a half pulled in to the famous site of Wat Praphuttabaht Noi, home of Limestone Wren-babbler. It is a nice little spot with a Buddhist temple surrounded by tall limestone crags and within a matter of just a few minutes we were watching a pair of wren-babblers clambering around the boulders at the base of the cliffs. These disappeared after a minute or so, but we then discovered another pair which were on view for around ten minutes. Superb! 

Limestone Wren-babbler

Other birds here are not numerous but we took our time and had nice views of a Peregrine carrying some prey, Coppersmith Barbet,  Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, both Asian Brown and Taiga Flycatchers, a female Black-naped Monarch, Black-naped Oriole, Olive-backed Sunbird, Yellow-browed Warbler, Long-tailed Macaque, Variable Squirrel, and just before we left a huge Lineated Barbet flew in to a tall tree right next to us.

So leaving here we drove on for another couple of hours to Khao Yai, seeing a group of Red-breasted Parakeets along the way, plus a fine male Plain-backed Sparrow near the entrance gate. Once inside the park we headed straight to a stake-out which was home to a stunning White-throated Rock-thrush and male Mugimaki Flycatcher. Both of these birds were extremely confiding and waiting for us to put some food down and flew in right beside us as soon as we arrived. It is quite amazing to think these birds have been returning to the very same spot for the last 4 or 5 years.

Mugimaki Flycatcher

White-throated Rock-Thrush

White-throated Rock-Thrush

There was also a bold White-rumped Shama hopping around the leaf litter right in front of us as well. A short walk from here only gave us Black-crested Bulbul and White-bellied Erpornis so we decided to head to the Park HQ for lunch.

Afterwards we drove deeper into the park, seeing a very close and obliging Bright-headed Cisticola along the way. Normally you wouldn't get excited about a cisticola but this one came in so close and lingered that you simply have to enjoy the bird. And we had a bonus find at the same spot, in a Rufescent Prinia  (a new bird for this tour), before walking along the road for a couple of hours. 

Bright-headed Cisticola

A Grey-backed Shrike was scoped before we found a large fruiting tree and a Moustached Barbet also looked nice in the scope, whilst a Yellow-vented Flowerpecker was seen as well and perched views of Mountain Imperial-pigeon are always a bonus. 

Mountain Imperial-Pigeon

Next up, an Orange-breasted Trogon flew over Nigel and Jeff, whilst a little further along we had Puff-throated and Grey-eyed Bulbuls, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Thick-billed, Fire-breasted and Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers, Brown-rumped Minivet, brief Black-throated Sunbird and Stripe-throated Bulbul. Scope views of a female Wreathed Hornbill were much appreciated by everyone,

Driving back we stopped for another walk and scored with two males and a female Siamese Fireback feeding beside the road. Then a cracking male Red-headed Trogon put in an appearance, followed by a reasonably close Collared Owlet, several White-crested Laughingthrushes and a brief Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush. We then spent the last hour of daylight beside a large pool waiting for needletails to come down to drink – which they didn’t, so had to console ourselves with plenty of Asian Palm Swifts a and a few Himalayan Swiftlets. As dusk settled several Great Eared-Nightjars hawked for insects around us. They are simply stunning birds, looking for all the world like a harrier and boy did they give good close views. It was also nice to see Large-tailed Nightjar here, and a Grey Nightjar was a huge bonus as well.

Way Kanan 4

The next morning we drove to Way Kanan and took a boat a short way along the river just after daybreak and walked through the swamp forest, passing the first pool until we reached a large clearing and another pool. Waiting quietly for an hour, our reward arrived in the shape of 3 White-winged Wood-Ducks flying by right in front of us. Wow! 

White-winged Duck - mega..!!

After a light shower the sun came out and birds began appearing on the treetops, with Black-headed Bulbul, Lesser Cuckooshrike and a Dollarbird being seen. Some movement in a distant fruiting tree turned out to be a flock of Cinnamon-headed Green-pigeons, a much appreciated lifer for everyone! Close by a pair of cracking Chestnut-bellied Malkohas showed well, and shortly after a Black-bellied Malkoha appeared behind a very close Crimson-winged Woodpecker we were already watching. 

Black-bellied Malkoha

Crimson-winged Woodpecker

The same spot also had Red-throated and Crimson Sunbirds, Ashy Tailorbird and Green Iora. Once we had returned to Way Kanan we had stunning views of a male Malayan Banded Pitta and male Diard’s Trogon to round off a wonderful morning’s birding.

Large-tailed Nightjar

The afternoon was again slow but Ferruginous Babbler was new and a couple of Chestnut-winged Babblers showed well, but a Maroon Woodpecker only showed to some. At dusk we had a Malaysian Eared-Nightjar flyby and close views of Large-tailed Nightjar at Way Kanan. 

Large Frogmouth - one of my best birds of the year.

We followed this with really good views of Large Frogmouth which was a fine way to finish as we only heard a Sunda Frogmouth in the distance, as well as Brown Wood-owl and Barred Eagle-Owl tonight! So that brought us 13 species of night-birds from this one site alone..!

Gilly Twitching

Have to interrupt the Sumatra story to share some photos of the Brunnich’s Guillemot I twitched today. It is not something I would normally do but buoyed by the high from seeing the White-billed Diver I ventured over to Portland Harbour in Dorset where this magical beastie has been hanging out for several days. And what a bird it is. Despite the light being poor and making photography tricky, it came in close to shore and allowed amazing views, making the twitch totally worthwhile. And isn't this what makes birding so great? This bird should be hundreds and hundreds of miles to the north, and here it is gracing the south coast of England…..

Brunnich's Guillemot

 The White-billed Diver is also still present closer to home and also showing well.

White-billed Diver

 Several Purple Sandpipers were hanging around Brixham Harbour and I particularly like the way the yellow colour of the seaweed compliments the bill and leg colour of the bird. 

Purple Sandpiper

 And these Black-throated Divers were also nice too.

Black-throated Divers

Way Kambas 3

The following morning we tried in vain for a Great Argus that we’d been hearing the day before and staked out its song-post area at dawn, and then found the rest of the morning to be a little slower that the previous day. But new birds kept coming at regular intervals despite the heat and we had views of Malayan Banded Pitta, Brown Barbet, Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Chestnut-backed Scimitar-babbler, Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, a brief Diard’s Trogon, and a Gould’s Frogmouth at a day roost. 

Rufous-backed Kingfisher

Gould's Frogmouth - good spot Brian!

On the drive back to the lodge for lunch we had point-blank views of a Red-bearded Bee-eater excavating a nest hole beside the road – what a stunner! A flock of Bushy-crested Hornbills were also called in as well. We’d also seen Black-naped Monarch and a couple of Tiger Shrikes during the morning as well.

Red-bearded Bee-eater

The afternoon started slowly but at an open area we had a very busy time beginning with nice scope views of Red-crowned Barbet, followed by Olive-winged and Buff-vented Bulbuls, Greater Green Leafbird, Common Hill-Myna, and some flyover Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrots. Nearby there was a Dark-sided Flycatcher, Crimson-winged, Checker-throated and a huge White-bellied Woodpecker, with a Wreathed Hornbill flying over. 

Sunda scops-owls

Another excellent night-birding session began with a confiding Brown Boobook and a pair of Sunda Scops-owls, and ended with a Blyth’s Frogmouth perched up nicely.

Way Kambas 2

Everyone was eager to be out and birding at first light on our first full day in this wonderful area, so shortly after 5.30am we were already getting to grips with a Leopard Cat crossing the road in the headlights. We followed this with a Red-bearded Bee-eater and a superb pair of Scarlet-rumped Trogons, plus another Dusky Broadbill, Plain Sunbird and Asian Drongo Cuckoo. A fine trio of Black-bellied, Raffles’s and Red-billed Malkohas graced the forest. We also got to grips with more babblers and had really good close views of a pair of Fluffy-backed Tit-babblers, Sooty-capped, Chestnut-winged and Scaly-crowned Babblers. A little later we had a pair of Grey-and-buff Woodpeckers high in the canopy, followed by Whiskered Treeswift, Green Iora, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, several Black Magpies, Hairy-backed Bulbul, Eastern Crowned Warbler, Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Rufous-winged Philentoma and Dark-throated Oriole. As the morning continued and the temperature began to rise we heard Banded Kingfisher, Green Broadbill, Malayan Banded Pitta, Dark-necked Tailorbird and Ferruginous Babbler.

Bonaparte's Nightjar - one of the rarest nightjars in Asia

The afternoon was quieter as usual but our first Black-and-yellow Broadbill gave repeated views high in the canopy, whilst a Rufous-collared Kingfisher showed at point-blank range after a long wait, but unfortunately the light had gone so it wasn’t possible to get any photos. The night-birding again proved to be top drawer with a Bonaparte’s Nightjar perched on a horizontal branch over the road being the highlight - and this is one of the few places to see it anywhere in Asia. 

Gould's Frogmouth

Reddish Scops-owl

We followed this with a Reddish Scops-owl and then a Gould’s Frogmouth - what a place this is!