Buntings & Babax - eventually...!

A 5am departure saw us driving up to a high pass where our arrival was met by the sun just beginning to peek over the horizon. But boy was it cold! Birding was slow to begin with, save for a few singing Olive-backed Pipits. Once the hillside above us began to glow in the sun’s rays a couple of birds flew in and landed on the grassy slope – Kozlov’s (Tibetan) Bunting! And there it was, our major target bird in the bag before breakfast was finished. In fact, the birds flew right down towards us and landed really close and we had crippling views.

Kozlov's Bunting Site

A rare photo of yours truly

Kozlov's Bunting

Following this, we split into two groups with Tang Jun taking some people up into the higher slopes where Grandala, Alpine Accentor and close Red-fronted Rosefinch were seen. The rest of us walked down the road and bumped into a feeding party of Chinese Beautiful Rosefinches. The prompted a walk across the slope to take in a magnificent view, and along with that came a couple of female Red-fronted Rosefinches, Alpine Accentor, Plain Mountain-finch & distant scope views of a calling Tibetan Snowcock, as well as a necessary photo opportunity! Then a male Red-fronted Rosefinch was spotted and flew down into a muddy area with 4 females and they were very obliging to say the least.

Red-fronted Rosefinch

After an hour or so we all met up and walked further down the road and saw a Wallcreeper before boarding the coach and driving lower. We checked out an area of Junipers and had more Streaked Rosefinches, before heading lower. We stopped to check more trees and a random bit of ipod play resulted in Szechenyi’s (Buff-throated) Monal-partridge calling back at us from the valley below. After a bit of a search with the scope we picked up a calling bird and everyone managed tickable views before we walked lower. Much better and closer views ensued and we watched several birds feeding and walking in some open clearings amongst the Junipers. During our vigil here we also had over 7 White Eared-Pheasants as well in the same area!

As it was such a good spot with great birds and magnificent scenery, we decided to have lunch here and enjoyed some hot noodles and melon for desert. And there were some other birds as well, with Hodgson’s, Blue-fronted & White-throated Redstarts, Greenish Warbler and White-winged Grosbeak present.

Driving way down the valley most of us were snoozing as an Ibisbill flew past – well done Neil! Then we followed a trail into a narrow valley and found a Tibetan (Kozlov’s) Babax that proved really tricky to get a good view of. We did see Lammergeier, Sichuan Tit and several Pink-rumped Rosefinches though. 

Tibetan Babax

In the end we gave up after just getting flight views and tried another side valley. This time we found numerous Tibetan Babax  feeding their young out in the open and generally mooching around right in front of us, totally unafraid. A great way to end the day and we were all rather jubilant as we headed to our hotel and an early shower!

Rosey Mania

We were on-site at daybreak and scanning some craggy cliffs beside the road during breakfast. Things were a little slow to start but there were plenty of birds here with both Bar-headed Goose and Ruddy Shelduck seemingly nesting on the cliffs here, Himalayan Griffons perched and waiting for the sun, a Black-eared Kite flew by, Godlewski’s Bunting, Common Rosefinch, Rock Sparrows, Black-winged Snowfinches and others. It took a while but when the sun suddenly broke over the hills there was an instant buzz of activity and suddenly Frank picked up a bird in flight and got my attention and sure enough there was a pair of Spotted Great Rosefinches feeding beside the road! Wow! As soon as everyone had got a view they flew off but within half an hour we had relocated them and we had stunning views as they fed beside a nearby river.  What a bird! 

Spotted Great Rosefinch

There was also a fine male Pink-rumped Rosefinch feeding not too far away, but it was dwarfed by its larger and more special cousin. We also saw another Ibisbill land on the opposite bank as well. Non avian highlight was a cute Glover’s Pika feeding amongst the rocks.

The changing face of Tibetan Plateau scenery

A little later and the sun was out...

Rosefinch Valley

Moving on, the scenery became even more spectacular if that is at all possible and by the end of the day I had scenery-overload! We travelled across a wide open plain with more Tibetan Gazelles and Saker Falcon seen, to a high snow-covered pass and down into a spectacular gorge with huge snow-capped peaks and craggy cliffs. Wasn’t sure what to expect here but it was a very pleasant place to scan the surroundings and we picked up a few Golden Eagles, Upland Buzzard, two different Lammergeiers, White-winged Redstart and some Blue Sheep. 

Streaked Rosefinch

Moving lower we hit pay-dirt, as first of all there was Greenish Warbler and White-throated Dipper. Then in a small meadow above the road we found several Snow Pigeons feeding quietly. Then a male Streaked Rosefinch was found, followed by more Pink-rumped Rosefinches, both of which were very confiding. More Ground-Tits were here as well, plus Tibetan Wagtail, a brief Yellow Wagtail seemed out of place, and some huge looking Marmots. We spent quite a while watching the Rosefinches, which was fortunate as a pair of Red-fronted Rosefinches flew in and fed below our group.

Daurian Jackdaw

Dragging ourselves away from this delightful valley we stopped for lunch in a small restaurant before heading to a very scenic gorge and seeing Daurian Jackdaw and Salim Ali’s Swifts, passing yet more stunning scenery. We did see a pair of White Eared-Pheasants here, but nothing else new. Although Tibetan Partridges were very confiding, and there was White-throated and Hodgson’s Redstarts, White-capped River-chat, many Elliot’s Laughingthrushes, and Chinese White-browed Rosefinch.

Tibetan Partridge

 So by the end of the day we had seen a very cool 6 species of Rosefinch – mania indeed!

Will we see Ibisbill.........??

We left our comfy hotel in Maduo at 6am and then spent the day predominantly driving along a terrible road that was mainly under construction the whole 300+ Kms, eventually reaching a brand new hotel in Yushu around 8pm.

Anyway, after an hours drive we stopped for breakfast along the road, at a point overlooking a large lake and surrounded by snow covered rolling hills all round. Our crew provided a fitting plate of mixed delights and hot coffee whilst we watched a Black-necked Crane quietly feeding at the water’s edge. There were also plenty of other previously seen species here before we set of again and had good numbers of Tibetan Wild Ass and Tibetan Gazelles from the road.

This is a Kiang, also known as Tibetan Wild Ass.

Tibetan Gazelle

Upland Buzzard

Lesser Sandplover

We made a few stops before our picnic lunch for roadside Saker, Ravens, Upland Buzzard, an out-of-place White-cheeked Starling and just to admire the scenery. Our lunch was taken overlooking a river where Rufous-necked Snowfinches, Ground-tits and a pair of Lesser Sandplovers were seen, and where this Tibetan Fox gave point-blank views as he chased pikas across the grassland. 

Tibetan Fox

By the time we had reached a high pass at 4350m it was 4.30pm and we walked out to a scrub covered hillside where we saw several White-tailed (Himalayan) Rubythroats singing, as well as Robin and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Common Rosefinch and Alpine Leaf-warbler. 

White-tailed Rubythroat

Alpine Leaf-warbler

As we headed lower down through a very scenic gorge with tall cliffs all around the road followed the Yangtze River and then we drove up into a side valley where we saw 3 Ibisbills feeding in a grassy pasture. We spent around an hour watching them feed, preen and then get disturbed by a herd of domestic Yak and it was a real privilege I can tell you. 

Told you we'd see Ibisbill

And what great views we had... See the tail barring....?

This was a nice scenic valley with a Buddhist temple and prayer flags adorning the hillside, with Tibetan Wagtails, Marmots and a herd of 45 White-lipped Deer grazed and Himalayan Griffons, Red-rumped Swallows and Salim Ali’s Swifts flew over. Driving lower we saw Eurasian Hoopoes, Eurasian Crag Martins and many, many Kessler’s Thrushes were present. Our first Tibetan Partridges feeding beside the road were also much appreciated.

Got to the hotel in the new town of Yushu late but enjoyed another fine meal and cool beer!

Er La Shan - The Big Hike....

This was the day of the big hike up the mountain for Tibetan Sandgrouse and we set off early from the hotel, but still had time for a spot of breakfast in a nearby restaurant first. Up at the pass we were soon off and heading upwards amidst a winter wonderland landscape of snow covered hills and mountains all around – in fact it had snowed heavily overnight and was even more scenic than when we drove over the pass yesterday. Our acclimatisation had worked well over the past week and everyone did very well on this tough climb, but a nice male Roberovski’s (Tibetan) Rosefinch certainly helped as it perched on a small rock looking down on us – a key species here. There were a few birds around, including our first Plain Mountain-finch, but otherwise much the same as yesterday so up we hiked. It only took a little over 90 minutes to reach the top but it was hard going at times and the layer of snow didn’t really help. But boy the scenery all around was amazing!

Er La Shan. You get the picture.... Snow, mountains, freezing temperature, near-mythical birds...

Once at the top we walked along a plateau until it dropped away onto a lower plateau and began to scan, and fortunately 3 Tibetan Snowcocks scuttled across in front of us and showed very well. We probably spent a couple of hours scanning and searching the favoured area of the Sandgrouse, but the whole place was covered in snow so how could they feed here? Eventually we walked further along the ridge and found an area where there was a very sparse layer of snow, mingled with ‘bare’ areas of soil and short grass. But there was still nothing doing here, until all of a sudden a strange call emanated from the plateau behind us and amazingly a Tibetan Sandgrouse flew right past us and continued on over a shallow hill. Oh yes baby!! 

Our first Tibetan Sandgrouse at around 4850m

The bird I personally wanted more than any other on this tour was finally nailed! We walked in the direction it had flown and relocated it, watching it feed amongst an area of small rocks and worked our way to within a couple hundred yards of it. It seemed quite nervous so we didn’t push it and the views through the scope were stunning. But a little too far for photos. 

Another pair of sandgrouse...

When it flew off back in the direction it had come we headed down and then discovered another pair feeding below us. I managed some nice, albeit distant photos but when they flew I managed this shot.

Tibetan Sandgrouse in flight....

Walking down towards the road we had a flock of Brandt’s Mountain-finches, Robin Accentors and other species, including a confiding Woolly Hare -  and i must say it was a huge relief to finally climb aboard the coach after such a strenuous walk.

We stopped in town for a late noodle lunch before driving the next 200kms of tedious, road work infested craziness….. Not far from our destination of Maduo we watched in amazement as a Wolf attacked a flock of sheep, killing one and maiming another before running across the road in front of us and joining the other three members of his pack. Wow!

Its a Wolf.....!!

Deciding whether to cross the road....

It was quite a bleak, wintry landscape here....

It seemed a good area for mammals as we’d already had Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass) and Tibetan Gazelle as well amidst a more typical Tibetan Plateau scene of wide open horizons and rolling hills. Upland Buzzards were everywhere and a Saker was nice too!

Gonghe to Er La Pass

We left Chaka early doors and drove along the expressway some 120 kms to the town of Gonghe – most of the way it rained! We had a great breakfast of porridge and dumplings (not together!) in a little restaurant before checking out an area just outside of town. Well, we couldn’t find any whitethroats, but were entertained by a Grey-headed Woodpecker and several Eurasian Hoopoes. Then we walked out into the semi-desert area and found a nice wadi where we eventually scored with Mongolian Finch, a bird that we had been looking for ages for over the past 3 afternoons. We also had a pair of Meadow Buntings here, as well as a Ground-tit, whilst nearby a Crested Lark sang from some telegraph wires. Then we checked out the poplars again for any sign of whitethroats without any luck, and had to content ourselves with a Eurasian Wryneck.

Then we set out on the drive to Er La Pass (4500m), reaching here by mid-afternoon, only to find ourselves in the middle of a blizzard. The whole area was covered in a layer of snow, but we still had a nice walk amidst such spectacular scenery you just have to experience to believe. We did find a pair of Guldenstadt’s Redstarts, Brandt’s Mountain-finch for some, and Rufous-necked, White-rumped and Henri’s Snowfinches.

Rufous-necked Snowfinch

The undoubted highlight was this Pallas’s Cat watched for a good half an hour as it hunted across the barren hillside above the road. At one stage it crouched right down and stalked a pika, which it duly caught and devoured – all the while being watched by a very appreciative audience. I must admit to getting the old ‘shaky hand’ syndrome as we watched this mega-rare mammal. 

Pallas's Cat

Whilst watching this amazing creature a pair of Golden Eagles locked talons and tumbled earthwards, only to pull up at the last moment and just after this, a Lammergeier flew over.

We stayed in a run-down, old hotel tonight - and it has apparently been renovated. Lucky us!  But the outside toilet was only for the brave! 

Bring on the Sandgrouse tomorrow.