Bharatpur or Bust...!

It is always difficult to sum up a day at Keoladeo National Park when you have seen so many great birds, and most of them have shown very well and very close. When one of the group states it is probably the best day’s birding they have ever done, then that comes as close and as accurate when describing the overall feel of such a day. Well, we saw 121 species covering so many different bird families, and the variety on offer was really quite astounding. When you consider that I have experienced better here in the past – then the potential here is enormous (if that makes any sense?).

Anyway, we arrived at the entrance gates around 6.45am (it’s just 5 minutes from our hotel) and took a short walk along the road in the cool, early morning air. We didn’t see anything too exciting to be honest, just some Yellow-footed Green Pigeons and Brahminy Starlings to start with, so we hopped on our rickshaws and went down to the old parking area. A fantastic male Siberian Rubythroat skulking in the shadows certainly got the pulses racing before another short rickshaw ride further into the park got us to some better habitat. The road from this point was bordered by tall trees, before opening out into more familiar habitat with water and marshes either side of the tree lined road – the classic feature of birding at ‘Bharatpur’. 

Brahminy Starling

After an unsuccessful search for Tickell’s Thrush we walked on into the more open areas and got stuck into the raptors and I’m glad to report that there is still a healthy wintering population here. We saw a lot of Steppe Eagles, several Greater Spotted Eagles and 2 Indian Spotted Eagles, along with Booted Eagle, Black Kite, Western Marsh Harrier and Shikra. On several occasions we found Steppe and Greater Spotted Eagles perched in nearby trees or on the ground. 

Indian Spotted Eagle

Steppe Eagle

Steppe Eagle

Greater Spotted Eagle

In the bushes beside the road we saw Bluethroat, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler, lots of Lesser Whitethroats (of the halimodendri race), with good views of both Hume’s and Greenish Warblers in the trees. 

Bluethroat

Clamorous Reed Warbler

Out on the marsh we saw lots of wildfowl, maybe not as many as I’ve been used to from previous tours but there was Lesser Whistling Duck, Knob-billed Duck, Indian Spot-billed Duck, lots of Garganey, Common Teal, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall and a single Red-crested Pochard. The main wader prize (for me) went to White-tailed Lapwing, a bird I really like and we spent some time watching quite a few in the scope. There were also lots of other species such as Wood and Green Sandpipers, Spotted Redshank and Common Greenshank etc. There was also nice views of Intermediate Egrets, Purple Herons, Eurasian Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis, and lots of Black-headed Ibis as well.

Garganey

Indian Spot-billed Duck

Glossy Ibis

Glossy Ibis

A superb male Ultramarine Flycatcher was something of a surprise to say the least and showed very well indeed, and of course we saw Dusky Eagle Owl, a family of which were roosting on a nearby island of acacias.

Dusky Eagle Owl

Ultramarine Flycatcher

One of the classic birds to be found here is Sarus Crane and we were lucky to see this pair feeding in the marshes before circling overhead in formation on numerous occasions.

Sarus Cranes

Following lunch at the temple area we spent the late afternoon birding around Mansarovar Lake and got lucky with our third Black Bittern of the day, this last one actually posing nicely rather than the two previous flybys. There was also a close Indian Python, Indian Cormorant, and several Black-crowned Night-Herons.

Indian Python

Other species seen today included Purple Swamphen, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Spotted Owlet, Long-tailed Shrike, White-eared Bulbul, and some close Yellow-eyed Babblers. But the overall kaleidoscope of large numbers of birds combined with very nice views of almost everything is what makes this site so special.

Taj Mahal to Bharatpur

This morning we visited the Taj Mahal in Agra and spent a pleasant time marvelling at this amazing structure, and also watching a flock of Great White Pelicans soaring around behind it. As you know I am culturally shallow so it was a welcome relief to stake out the Yamuna River behind the Taj and do some scanning for an hour whilst most of the group did the cultural bit.... Oh I wasn't alone and Messers Nickless and Hopkins kept me company....! A single Dalmatian Pelican was noted as it swam along the river, passing numerous birds on the shoreline that included 10 Eurasian Spoonbills, Knob-billed Duck, lots of Black-winged Stilts, Ruff and other waders as well. Overhead a few Black-eared Kites were noted amongst the hundreds of Black Kites soaring around.

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse

An interesting looking Southern Grey Shrike...

Following lunch at  a great restaurant we drove for an hour or so to our hotel in Bharatpur town, checked in to our rooms and then drove out into the arable fields around 30 minutes away. A huge desolate, semi-arid area was our target and in the late afternoon sunshine we enjoyed fine scope views of several Southern Grey Shrikes, Desert Wheatear, at least 10 Indian Coursers and a flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse as well. 

India - Chambal River

After a long night’s rest we drove down towards the Chambal River, stopping along the way to walk through an arid area of canyons and thorn scrub. I was surprised to see a couple Jungle Prinias here, and there was also Ashy and Grey-breasted Prinias as well for comparison. 

Jungle Prinia - stunning huh..?

It has to be said that India is like no other country in many respects, no aspect more apparent than the sheer volume of birds one sees whether driving along or walking. I can’t remember feeling this in the past and must have taken this amazing aspect of India’s wildlife for granted, having done so many tours here. But it is absolutely true and the sheer quality and variety of birds on view wherever you stop and look is a total contrast to many countries these days in Asia. To illustrate this fact, a small muddy puddle at the end of the lodge’s drive held both Green and Wood Sandpipers and a Common Redshank, whilst driving across the arable landscape we saw so many Green Bee-eaters on the wires, along with Chestnut-shouldered Petronias, Indian Rollers and Baya Weavers it was hard to not stop every time we came across a group of birds.

So we sauntered along the road and saw Grey Francolin, numerous Rose-ringed Parakeets, Laughing Dove, Indian Robin, a brief Yellow-eyed Babbler, lots of Bank Mynas, both Common and Large Grey Babblers and overhead a superb Short-toed Eagle looked huge. 

Bank Myna and Common Babbler

Mr and Mrs Indian Robin

Short-toed Eagle

A short drive took us down to the Chambal River and a quick scan revealed Paddyfield and Tawny Pipits, Masked and White Wagtails, Crested Lark and some close River Lapwings. Once aboard our ‘sturdy’ vessel (or tub may be more appropriate) we headed along the river and it was a little choppy due to the high wind but that didn’t stop us seeing a multitude of birds and top of the list were the 7 Indian Skimmers roosting on a sandy island. Having been told the previous evening that they are not as guaranteed as in the past and have been missing for a long time until very recently I have to admit I was a trifle worried. However, here they were and we lapped up the fantastic views. 

Indian Skimmers

We also saw all the other usual birds during our exploration such as Great Thick-Knees, a group of Knob-billed Ducks, Ruddy Shelduck, Temminck’s Stint, Pied and White-throated Kingfishers, Red-wattled Lapwings, and several Indian Black (Red-naped) Ibis. 

Indian Black (Red-naped) Ibis

Bar-headed Geese

Knob-billed Duck

White-browed Wagtail

Great Thick-Knee

Overhead were several Ospreys, Egyptian Vultures, Black-shouldered Kites and a Long-legged Buzzard.  

Egyptian Vulture

Really enjoyed the views of Gharials and Marsh Muggers as well….

Gharials and Soft-shelled Turtles

Gharial

More Gharials

Marsh Mugger....

Returning to the lodge the large pond on the approach road held a flock of fresh breeding plumaged Painted Storks avidly feeding and allowing great photo opps. 

Painted Storks

Even at lunch it was difficult to not get distracted by Indian Grey Hornbills, Rufous Treepie, Brown-headed Barbet, Oriental White-eyes and a Grey Mongoose. Oh and how could I 

forget the day roosting Indian Scops-Owl or the Spotted Owlets…..?

Indian Scops-Owl

We birded the gardens and surrounding fields in the late afternoon and enjoyed views of Taiga Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Plain Prinia, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, and a pool full of birds with Bronze-winged Jacana and a couple of Greater Painted Snipes being 

the pick of a good bunch. We walked back to the lodge and ended a great day with a superb dinner.