Arizona Day 4: Pilgrimage to Patagonia

Having a SatNav really helps and we found our way to Patagonia Lake State Park via a series of ‘back roads’ early this morning. Oh we had another cracking breakfast in a diner close to the motel although having to choose between 4 different types of bread and which one of a million ways to have my eggs was a little taxing so early in the day..!! Anyway, upon arrival we paid of entrance fee and parked at the far end of the camping area right a the start of the well-signposted Birding Trail. Our main target was the rare Black-capped Gnatcatcher that had been reported here for several days, but the only directions we had was that the bird about halfway along the trail……… Mmmm….

So we followed the path, scanning the lake where our first Spotted Sandpiper and Double-crested Cormorants were scoped, a Common Yellowthroat showed briefly and there was a bunch of other common stuff I don’t really recall. The first patch of tall mesquite held a Cassin’s Vireo, which showed up just as we were watching a Warbling Vireo. There was also Wilson’s and Yellow Warblers, as well as Song, Lincoln’s and some White-crowned Sparrows here. The path dropped down to the lakeside where several Summer Tanagers and Vermilion Flycatchers were displaying and then went across an open area and into another tall patch of Mesquite. It was here that I found the Black-capped Gnatcatcher and spent several enjoyable minutes watching it feed above us. I did spot a Macgillivray’s Warbler skulking under a bush on the hillside behind us just at the moment that the gnatcatcher appeared but focussed on the tiny grey and black sprite bobbing about the canopy right next to us. Good views of Lucy’s Warbler, Verdin and Bell’s Vireo at the same spot were also much appreciated.

The rare Black-capped Gnatcatcher - note the white undertail.

We did walk out onto the hillside to look for the warbler but failed relocate it, although the gnatcatcher gave further views, this time incredibly close and almost too close to focus our bins and cameras on. So what a result and with the day warming up we decided to return to the car. 

Sora

Along the way we had a nice close Sora, some Mexican Ducks, Cinnamon and Blue-winged Teal, and a weird-looking Antelope Jackrabbit. Driving out of the park we spotted a Grey Hawk perched in a bare tree.

From here we headed the short distance to Patagonia and made the pilgrimage to the Paton Centre for Hummingbirds where we hoped to see the reported Violet-crowned Hummingbird, here at its only known stakeout in the U.S. Well we hadn’t sat down in the seating area for more than 5 minutes before a fine male appeared and began feeding at one of the red hummer feeders set out in a nearby tree. We saw him a couple more times during our stay and he sure was a stunner.

Violet-crowned Hummingbird.

From the seating area you can watch a variety of feeders, bird tables, some brush piles and open grass where we were astounded by the sheer numbers of birds. The hummer feeders were also attracting Anna’s and Black-chinned Hummingbirds as well. Our first Abert’s Towhee was rather cool skulking around a pile of branches laid out on the floor, and there were also Inca Doves, Lark Sparrows and a bunch of Gambel’s Quails feeding on some seed on the floor . 

Lark Sparrow

Gambel's Quail

On the other feeders flocks of Pine Siskins, House Finches, Black-headed Grosbeak and even a few Lazuli Buntings were present, with also Acorn Woodpecker and a Curve-billed Thrasher joining in the fun. Surrounding trees held Audubon’s Warbler, Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Western Kingbird and others but after an hour or so we needed food and retired to the nearby Gathering Grounds Restaurant. The sleepy hamlet of Patagonia has a lovely, quaint old town feel about it and the food was outstanding.

Pine Siskins

Black-headed Grosbeak

Lazuli Bunting

Acorn Woodpecker

Curve-billed Thrasher

Afterwards we drove just a few minutes away to Sonoita Creek Preserve, checked in and walked along the trails, finding another male Violet-crowned Hummer on their feeders. Along the creek we hoped to find a reported Thick-billed Kingbird but the wind was picking up and I wasn’t that confident. A ‘needle in a haystack’ sprang to mind but fortunately I picked up the call and sure enough there it was, perched high up in a huge bare tree after only a 20 minute walk along the open trail. We had great views in the scope and I was mightily relieved, but as luck would have it the bird flew towards us and perched right overhead as we were sitting in the shade on a well positioned bench. 

Thick-billed Kingbird - another SE Arizona speciality.

The only other birds of note were Green-tailed Towhee and Dark-eyed Junco so we headed out, calling back in at the Paton’s for one final look. With nothing new on offer our drive took us maybe an hour away across rolling grasslands to the modern town of Sierra Vista, which is nestled at the base of the Huachuca Mountains where we are booked in at the Hampton Inn for 3 nights.

Arizona Day 3: Madera Canyon to Arivaca Lake

Began the day along Proctor Road at the base of Madera Canyon, an area that has some decent Riparian woodland with a small stream and lots of bushes and scrub. In the recent past this has been the place for Buff-collared Nightjar but there hasn’t been any news so far this year. 

Proctor Road Habitat

Greater Roadrunner

So we took a walk here for an hour and saw our second and third Greater Roadrunners of the day – the first one was in the driveway of the Esplendor Resort. I’m not going to talk about this place as it is currently being renovated, and boy does it need it. Maybe when the refurbishment has been done it will look something like it does on their website..!!!!  

Ladder-backed Woodpecker

Phainopepla

Anyway, yes nice views of Roadrunner here, as well as Phainopepla, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, a fine Zone-tailed Hawk flying overhead, Hooded Oriole, Ladder-backed Woodpecker and several Wilson’s Warblers.

The fabled hills of Madera Canyon 

 So afterwards we drove up into Madera Canyon and walked along the Super trail that took us high up into the hills in search of trogons. Again we bumped into people who had heard them but we didn’t get a sniff again. However, it was a lovely walk and we thoroughly enjoyed a singing Black-throated Grey Warbler that patrolled an area of oaks and conifers next to the path. 

Black-throated Grey Warbler

A pair of Hutton’s Vireos were also confiding, a pair of Rufous-crowned Sparrows showed nicely, and I sussed out a call that had been bothering me for a few days – Dusky-capped Flycatcher being the culprit. Oh and our first Hammond’s Flycatcher was well and truly nailed this morning. These flycatchers are really tricky and we’ve let a few go already without identifying them but this one did call and the long primaries, tail and bill length all pointed to this species.

Black-headed Grosbeak is easily seen here at feeders.

We checked out the feeders at Santa Rita Lodge, seeing much the same as yesterday before heading to Ruby Road. The idea was to check out the road to California Gulch for Five-striped Sparrow despite the dearth of recent sightings. However, part of this road is closed for construction so we ended up heading to Arivaca Lake, stopping for lunch in a little diner along the way in the middle of nowhere. As we turned off the main road onto a dirt track we drove across rolling grass-covered hills and stopped along a line of small trees and found a Western Wood Pewee, yet more Rufous-winged Sparrows and saw our first Vermillion Flycatchers. 

Rufous-winged Sparrow

A small pond in a valley below the road held a pair of Lesser Scaups – the only ones of the trip. 

Lake Arivaca

The main lake was very picturesque and we quickly notched up American Coots, Pied-billed Grebes, Ruddy Duck, and both Green & Great Blue Herons. The surrounding trees held Summer Tanager, Western Kingbird, Audubon’s Warblers, Lark Sparrows, Lazuli Bunting, Black Phoebe, Belted Kingfisher, and just before we left a Killdeer flew in.

Pied-billed Grebes were very confiding

Killdeer

We left here in the late afternoon and called in to Safeway to purchase a picnic for our evening excursion back in Madera Canyon. After overindulging in yoghurt, cheese, fruit and gorgeous brown bread we walked back up to Santa Rita Lodge and waited until 6.50pm before an obliging Elf Owl popped its head out of its nest hole in a telegraph post. 

The tiny Elf Owl at its Madera Canyon Stake-Out

Afterwards, we took all of 10 minutes before spotlighting a Whiskered Screech-Owl perched on a bare branch at the edge of the car park. I didn’t expect this much-wanted bird to be so easy, if only I could say the same about the Mexican Whip-Poor-Wills calling at the top of the canyon. Well, they just called and called and never left the shelter of their section of forest at the top of a steep slope. I was wondering if they are a bit easier later in the season? Anyway, we managed to get back to the motel at a reasonable time as we needed to get packed and ready for an early morning departure to Patagonia.

Arizona Day 2: Sonoran Desert to Madera Canyon

One bird I was sort of concerned about seeing was Gilded Flicker as you have to get to the Sonoran Desert to find the Saguaro cactus that this bird inhabits. I think that there wasn’t much info as it is generally common in the correct habitat and you’d have to be a dummy to miss it….? Well, just after first light I tried to find Tucson Mountain Park and stupidly relied on my satnav that took me to an address out in the middle of nowhere, fortunately in perfect habitat next to some desert museum thingy. 

Sonoran Desert and Saguaro cactus habitat

A singing Curve-billed Thrasher got the ball rolling, and we followed that with scope views of Cactus Wren and Gila Woodpecker, watched a flew Bullock’s Orioles fly past and saw a Canyon Towhee. 

Gilded Flicker - note the yellow underwing

All of a sudden I heard a sharp ”keek keek” call and frantically scanned the surrounding saguaros and sure enough it was a Gilded Flicker. Oh boy. It was a little distant to begin with but after walking closer another bird appeared and promptly flew towards us and landed in a nearby dead tree. Needless to say I was very pleased to nail this bird. Delighted with this and with rumbling stomachs we returned to the hire car, seeing Black-tailed Gnatcatcher and a Verdin along the way, and drove some 40 minutes back to the motel for breakfast.

Black-tailed Gnatcatcher

Verdin

We left the wonderful Hampton Inn and hit the freeway for what turned out to be an hours drive south to the fabled Madera Canyon. The drive from the freeway took us across an open range of grassland and bushes with the towering Santa Rita Mountains forming a stunning backdrop. Once at the mouth of the canyon the road wound uphill through lovely forest a few miles to Santa Rita Lodge. We parked in the Madera Picnic Area and walked a few hundred metres, trying to ignore numerous Bridled Titmouse, Ruby-crowned Kinglet and a Painted Redstart as we wanted to get to the feeding station quickly. There’s a shop here and a viewing area overlooking bird tables, hummer feeders and a pond where numerous birds were on show. I ticked off the common Broad-billed, as well as Magnificent and Blue-throated Hummingbirds in rapid succession and must admit my former indifference to this family now seems a little silly. So yes, my name is Nick and I love hummers!!! 

Broad-billed Hummingbirds

There were also crowds of Pine Siskins, House Finches, Black-headed Grosbeaks, Mexican Jays and even a gang of Wild Turkeys present.

Leaving here we drove to the top car park and set off up the Carrie Nation Trail in search of the recently arrived Elegant Trogon (now split as Coppery-tailed Trogon from the Mexican birds) but after several hours hiking up into the hills we drew a blank. Yet we did get Townsend’s Warbler, Plumbeous and Hutton’s Vireos, Hepatic Tanager, Ash-throated and Dusky-capped Flycatchers, Hermit Thrush, Cassin’s Finch and more Painted Redstarts. But the best bird was our first Arizona Woodpecker feeding next to the path - nice!

Driving towards our next motel at Rio Rico I stopped the car when an American Kestrel flew over and landed on a telegraph pole. This turned out to be very fortunate as we found a pair of Rufous-winged Sparrows, a bird I was very keen to see. Little did I know how common this bird is in the right habitat as well! We eventually ended up at the not-so-splendid Esplendor Resort an hour later and ate a poor meal at a restaurant recommended to us by the receptionist. Oh well!