Birding Magic from the ZF2 Tower

This was a much-anticipated day as we were visiting the famous ZF2 canopy tower. It was something of a surprise when our local guide, Pablo, told us last night that we’d need to check out of the hotel at 3.30am bags and all..!! Ouch! Well, we did and were on the road pretty promptly heading more or less in a northerly direction out of Manaus for about 75 minutes before pulling over on a side road. Here a trio of 4-wheel drive trucks were waiting to meet us and take us to the tower. It was an interesting 40 minute drive through the forest as the dirt road was very muddy and slippery and several timers we went sideways as the wheels lost traction, but we all made it unscathed in the end. We had a picnic breakfast at the base of the tower and waited for it to get light before walking up to the top of the 42-metre canopy tower, only to find the whole area enshrouded in mist. A frustrating hour followed as the light gradually increased and the mist thinned out a little. The first bird of the day seen was a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers almost directly below us, followed by scope views of several calling White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans. Then Pablo drew our attention to a very close Glossy-backed Becard in the canopy of a tree right next to the tower and was almost at eye-level. 

Black-faced Dacnis

A flurry of activity ensued with male Black-faced Dacnis, Golden-winged Parakeet in the scope, a close calling Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, and a superb Ash-winged Antwren. Phew! Then a Guianan Toucanet was scoped, quickly followed by a Southern Mealy Amazon. 

Guianan Toucanet

Another quick flurry of new sightings followed with Yellow-throated Flycatcher, White-lored Tyrannulet, close Flame-crested Tanager, a male Black-capped Becard, Olive-green Tyrannulet, and a fine male Spot-backed Antwren. Pausing for breath we noticed the swifts flying around us at eye-level didn’t have pale rumps and were Chapman’s Swifts, and whilst watching them a Versicoloured Emerald was spotted feeding around a flowering tree below us. David scoped a pair of Blue-headed Parrots shortly after, before Pablo called in a superb Painted Tody-Flycatcher into one of the trees closest to us and just before a group of Marail Guans were found – and they eventually provided fantastic looks through the scope. 

Marail Guan

The activity slowed down somewhat from 9am but a steady stream of notable sightings kept us going, and next up was a Grey Elaenia, followed by Paradise Tanager, and the first of many, many Pompadour Cotingas. A great pair of Golden-collared Woodpeckers appeared below us, along with a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, and just before one of the closet trees yielded Guianan Tyrannulet and Zimmer’s (Yellow-margined) Flatbill. 

Golden-collared Woodpeckers

Guianan Tyrannulet

A distant Red-throated Caracara was scoped before a group of Green Aracaris appeared, and David spotted both King Vulture and White Hawk perched in the canopy at some distance away. Pablo called in Black Nunbird, several Red-and-green Macaws flew around, a Double-toothed Kite soared overhead, Paradise Jacamar was scoped, a Black-bellied Cuckoo showed well along with a Yellow-green Grosbeak. But the star bird was undoubtedly Crimson Fruitcrow, a pair of which were scoped at length on a forested ridge to the west. What a bird and the cherry on top of a superb morning’s cake!

Black-bellied Cuckoo

Green Aracari

After an ‘interesting’ drive back along the slippery road we made it to our waiting minibus within 80 minutes and were soon on the road towards Presidente Figueraido, getting delayed by a car accident en-route. So we eventually arrived at our pousada where we’d be staying for the next 3 nights at a little after 2pm and went straight down to the restaurant. Later in the afternoon we walked a short distance out into the forest where we had unbelievably close views of Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. At first we walked past two stunningly bright orange birds within 5 metres of the path who had formed a satellite lek. 

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock.... you get the idea.... awesome!

The main lek was another few hundred metres further on where over 11 males were displaying. It’s an almost unbelievable experience to witness with several males literally sitting on the forest floor and their strange calls echoing through the forest. Wow! We spent some time with these beauties before birding our way the short distance back to the lodge and notched up some really good birds. First of all a Northern Slaty-Antshrike sang above us and allowed good views, then a Bronzy Jacamar gave itself up easily, and we followed this with the bizarre Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin and a Black Manakin. It was just a shame the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t come in. 

Spangled Cotinga

Back at the lodge we enjoyed some cold drinks whilst scanning the fruiting trees at the back of the restaurant where we saw White-necked Thrush and a fantastic Spangled Cotinga enjoying the bounty. Our search for Little Chachalaca proved fruitless but a few flyover Green Oropendolas kept our list ticking over nicely!

MARCHANTERIA ISLAND MAGIC

Drove some 30 minutes to Manaus port where we boarded our boat for a trip over to Marchanteria Island. This isn’t an ‘island’ as you think of it…. Oh no, it’s a series of flooded areas with cecropia trees and flooded grassland under 6 feet of water and is where a number of Amazonian island specialists reside. The Amazon river at this point is well over a mile across and it’s phenomenal to be honest. Anyway, we managed to find a very good number of the key target species with Red-and-white Spinetail, Rusty-backed Spinetail, White-bellied Spinetail, Dark-breasted Spinetail, Amazonian Black-Tyrant, Brownish Elaenia, Black-and-white Antbird, the rare Green-throated Mango, and eventually everyone saw Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant (this race is a potential split). 

Marchanteria Island is home to a number of key specialities....

Amazonian Black Tyrant is just one of the target species here...

A fine supporting cast provided us with a many and varied list for this morning and here’s just a little selection: Buff-necked Ibis, Collared Plover, Black Skimmer, Large-billed Tern, Black-collared Hawk, Snail Kite, Amazon Kingfisher, White-winged Parakeet, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Black-bellied Cuckoo, River Tyrannulet, Oriole Blackbird, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Yellow-browed Sparrow and Lined Seedeater. The journey back to port was a bit interesting as the wind picked up and it was like sailing out in the ocean with large waves buffeting our small boat! 

Oriole Blackbird

After lunch in a nice restaurant we drove to a trail, stopping at some roadside flowering trees that Pablo knew held the stunning Crimson Topaz. Sure enough we had views of a cracking male, along with Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Long-billed Starthroat, Black-throated Mango, with several Red-bellied Macaws flying past and landing nearby. 

Crimson Topaz

The trail wasn’t far away and it started off quite well with Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Channel-billed Toucan, Chivi Vireo and Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch. We came across a small flock that held Fulvous-crested and Turquoise Tanagers and we followed this with White-throated Toucan before finding an outstandingly beautiful Pompadour Cotinga feeding in a fruiting tree. Wow! 

Fulvous-crested Tanager

Pompadour Cotinga - wow!!

A Yellow-green Grosbeak was next up, followed by Black-tailed Tityra and Guianan Trogon before the forest suddenly got really quiet. The next hour or so was slow going until we found a Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Long-billed Gnatwren, Guianan Warbling Antbird, Guianan Puffbird and a Black-throated Trogon. So not a bad day!

Topaz to Tui and Everything In-between

Our day began at 5.45am as we waited in the grounds of the lodge for daylight and in particular for Fiery Topaz to show at it’s lek site. Well thankfully the birds performed on cue and at least one astonishingly brightly-plumaged male showed incredibly well right in front of us. 

Fiery Topaz

There was also a female and an immature male present as well. Wow! As we walked to the dining area the gardens became alive with birds and in pretty quick fashion we saw Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Red-bellied Amazon, Sulphury Flycatcher, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, and a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. 

Point-tailed Palmcreeper

After an excellent breakfast we were ready to hit the trails but not before a few Chestnut-eared Aracaris flew in and landed nearby, and as we watched them a Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet was spotted  and some Short-tailed Swifts bombed overhead. The trails were quiet again and the humidity was high but we still managed to dig out a few good birds beginning with a Brownish Twistwing that incredibly everyone saw quite well. A Reddish Hermit feeding on a bright crimson bromeliad disturbed our concentration from a calling Brown Schiffornis, but it was the Lined Forest-Falcon that well and truly diverted our attention from the not-so-delightful schiffornis.  The falcon flew over our heads twice before landing in full view high up in the canopy. Oh yes! Further along the trail a Ringed Woodpecker pecked at something on a bare branch right over the trail, a female White-crowned Manakin was a little uninspiring, a Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher was seen along with a Plain-brown Woodcreeper to round off our morning’s birding. 

 

We had an hour to shower away the sweat and pack before lunch and then drove back towards Manaus and our next hotel for 2 nights. Along the way we stopped at a wetland, which proved to be surprisingly good and we added numerous species to our ever growing lists. We nailed Tui and White-winged Parakeets, with a few Short-tailed Parrots feeding in a cecropia tree nearby. 

Short-tailed Parrot

Tui Parakeets

A Yellow-headed Caracara flushed over 30 Sand-coloured Nighthawks from their rooftop roost and were absolutely stunning in flight. A White-throated Kingbird was pointed out by Pablo, a Savannah Hawk flew over, and there was also Orange-backed Troupial, Yellow-browed Sparrow, Lesser Hornero, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, some Orange-fronted Yellow-Finches, River Tyrannulet, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, many, many Smooth-billed Ani and a flyover Southern Lapwing. 

River Tyrannulet

River Tyrannulet

Sand-coloured Nightjawks

All that remained was to drive half an hour to our downtown Manaus hotel where we reached it at 5pm allowing us a leisurely evening, good food and just a few very cold beers!

NOVO AIRAO

Headed to a nearby secondary forest after a 5am breakfast and walked along a fairly flat trail with dense secondary forest on either side. First bird we had was a pair of Black-faced Antbirds that took a while for everyone to connect with. A White-cheeked Antbird began calling whilst we were here and showed briefly, with a calling Dusky Parrot high overhead also being seen. Just around the corner a very vocal Yellow-browed Antbird was coaxed into view and he spent most of the time in the mid-canopy. A group of 3 White-fronted Nunbirds flew over us and landed in a bare section of a large tree beside the trail, before we well and truly nailed Cinerous Antshrike, followed by a cracking Pearly Antshrike. A Long-winged Antwren followed and shortly after we found two pairs of diminutive Rio Negro Stipplethroats right beside the trail. Higher up we saw a few female Blue-crowned Manakins, and then Chris found a pair of White-flanked Antwrens. 

Long-winged Antwren

A little later, at the end of the trail, our patience was eventually rewarded with prolonged scope views of a singing Musician Wren – who does that?! The walk back to the minibus was quick as we hadn’t actually walked any more than a kilometre the entire 5 hours but we did find Waved Woodpecker and a Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper. High over the trail a fruiting tree was enticing a couple of Paradise Tanagers, Spotted Tanager, Streaked Flycatcher, several Purple Honeycreepers and some more female Blue Manakins. 

 

After lunch at the lodge we drove 2 hours to our next accommodation in Manacapura, which turned out to be something of a resort – much to our surprise. Anyway, at 3pm we all met up and began walking one of the many trails that can be found here. It was really hot and humid and within a few minutes we our shirts were beginning to get soaked with sweat. A tiny Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin took our minds off the humidity but it was slow going. We walked probably 3 kilometres at most and found activity to be slow all the way, with a Grey Antbird high overhead, a pair of Paradise Jacamars, a skulking Collared Gnatwren, Mouse-coloured Antshrike and a Yellow-throated Woodpecker the highlights. It was a relief to return to our air-conditioned rooms at 6pm for a warm shower but having a few beers in the restaurant to quench our thirst helped a lot! 

Brazil - Manaus - eventually....!!!!

I'm jumping to Brazil right now, as I flew there from Uganda.... Unfortunately I missed the first 1.5 days when the guys got Rufous and white-winged Potoo amongst other things...

So I finally caught up with my group after a protracted journey from Uganda and missing my connecting flight to Manaus from Sao Paulo resulting in a 2.30am arrival at the lodge near Novo Airao. Breakfast at 5am hurt a bit but we were scheduled for a morning boat excursion inside Anavilhanus National Park along the massive Rio Negro. With a beautiful red sunrise and Band-tailed Nighthawks all around we turned off the main river into a side channel where we spent most of the morning, notching up a delightful selection of Amazonian and more widespread species. Our excellent driver manoeuvred our boat with such skill between trees as we traversed through flooded varzea forest all morning and it was a real treat to be able to see so many excellent birds. We began in a more open area with a brief Sungrebe, followed by a flurry of activity very close in front of us with Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Amazonian Inezia, Black-crested Antshrike, Cherrie’s Antwren, Blue-tailed Emerald, Red-capped Cardinal, Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Short-crested Flycatcher, Striped and Long-billed Woodcreepers, Greater Ani, flyover Plumbeous Kite, Festive Parrots, and numerous Yellow-rumped Caciques. 

Cherrie's Antwren

Black-crested Antwren

We’d already seen our first of several Pink River Dolphins before moving to another area just inside the forest where a stunning Green-tailed Jacamar was posing beautifully, and where we saw the key endemic target Klage’s Antwren, as well as Leaden Antwren, Crested Oropendola, Black-chinned Antbird, Zimmer’s Woodcreeper, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Blackish-grey Antshrike, a superb Common Potoo, Cinnamon Attila, Ash-breasted Antbird, and a flighty Varzea Schiffornis. 

Common Potoo

Moving across into a different section of flooded forest, we came across the delightfully named Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant close by and just before entering the arena of displaying Wire-tailed Manakins. These stunningly beautiful birds were all around us and looked for all the world like tiny red and yellow light bulbs in the gloomy forest. 

Brown-throated Sloth

Snethlage's today-Tyrant

Wire-tailed Manakin

A Brown-throated Sloth provided some non-avian distraction at the same spot, and our excellent local guide Pablo called in a Speckled Spinetail here also. Nearby we visited a lek of Streak-throated Hermits that took some time for everyone to see well enough before we returned to the main channel, seeing a real wild Muscovy Duck and we followed this with several Plumbeous Kites and a Great Black Hawk overhead before returning to our waiting minibus. Amazingly it was 10.30am when we returned to the lodge, lunch was at 11.30am and we departed for our afternoon boat excursion at 3pm, leaving several hours for a sleep and a little birding in the large gardens. 

Ivory-billed Aracari

Some decent birds were seen in the gardens, with pride of place going to a flock of Orange-fronted Yellow Finches, but there was also Variegated Flycatcher, Silver-beaked, Palm and Blue-grey Tanagers as well to keep the hardy amongst us busy. The afternoon was a little quieter as we searched for a couple of greenlets without success. But there were many other trip ticks and decent birds beginning with Swallow-wing Puffbird, White-winged Swallows were numerous, both Grey-breasted  and Brown-chested Martins, Short-tailed and Band-rumped Swifts, a few Ringed Kingfishers, Hook-billed Kite, Swallow-tailed Kite, Orange-winged Parrots flew over, a group of Black-fronted Nunbirds provided quite the cacophony, Screaming Piha perched high up, Blue Dacnis, Squirrel Cuckoo, Green-backed Trogon, Yellow-headed Caracara, White-throated Toucans, Orange-cheeked Parrots, another Amazonian Inezia, a pair of Paradise Jacamars, a group of 3 Ivory-billed Aracaris and a Bat Falcon hunting along the main river. We ended with many Band-tailed Nighthawks cruising by to end the day as we had begun and with a stunning sunset as well. What a day!

Kibale Forest - Pittas & Chimps!

An exciting morning lay ahead of us as we left the lodge at 6am and drove to the main reception of the park HQ and picked up our tracker/guide. Then we drove into the forest and walked down a narrow trail which dropped steeply. At the bottom pf this trail we joined a Birdquest group and saw a Green-breasted Pitta feeding further along the path in front of us. Between heads, Tilley hats and an accompaniment of local rangers we managed to scope the pitta in the gloom, but the views were less than satisfactory. When the pitta disappeared, we walked further into the forest and managed to find it again, and at one stage the pitta almost flew into us. It was still dark under the canopy and we craved better views, so returned to the main path where unbelievably we watched an adult and 2 fully grown young feeding right out in the open. 

The best I could do in the gloomy Kibale Forest of Green-breasted Pitta

For the next 15 minutes we soaked up incredible views of the most-wanted bird of the tour (arguably). From here we walked back to the main road, stopping to look at a singing Rufous (Fraser’s) Flycatcher-Thrush along the way, and we also heard Scaly-breasted Illadopsis and Western Black-headed Oriole. 

Fraser's Flycatcher-Thrush

At the point where Paul was driving to pick us up our tracker/guide pointed out a juvenile Chimpanzee feeding high up in a nearby tree. We then found the mother lower down and watched the young one climb down to join her. Wow! And a short while later a Narina Trogon was seen. So we then drove back along the main forest road and walked into the forest again, this time in search of Chimpanzees. In no time at all we joined quite a few other people in watching a few Chimps feeding high up in the trees. Amazingly, and after a bit of a run around, we had point-blank views of two Chimpanzees feeding on fruits, whilst sat on the forest floor about 15 feet away…… Words cannot do the experience justice and to say we were satisfied with the views is an understatement. 

It was a fantastic experience to see these Chimpanzee's up close

By now it was only 10;40am and still time to nail a few new birds so further along the road we drove and stopped when a Red-chested Cuckoo began calling and after a bit of waiting eventually managed to scope one of three that were continuously calling. A Honeyguide Greenbul was also singing away and we managed reasonable looks at it, scoped an African Shrike-Flycatcher, but only had flight views of Yellow-throated Tinkerbird. 

 

By now the overcast morning was breaking up into bright blue sky and it became quite hot, so decided to drive back to the lodge. Along the way we stopped to look at a flock of Vieillot’s Black Weavers and a White-browed Coucal, and further scanning produced Fan-tailed Widowbird, Cardinal Quelea and Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat.

 

Lunch on the upper deck of the lodge gave us a splendid view across the treetops of Kibale Forest and the gardens where a Sabine’s Spinetail patrolled the valley below us. There was also African Yellow White-eye, African Pygmy Kingfisher, African Harrier-Hawk, Lizard Buzzard, Olive-bellied and Bronzy Sunbirds, Mosque and Lesser Striped Swallows, Yellow-fronted Canaries, an ultra-brief Black Cuckooshrike, and an African Blue Flycatcher found by Andy. And then a pair of Red-headed Malimbes showed in a big tree, and a pair of Black-and-white Shrike-Flycatchers were spotted in the same tree! Wow! Just before we left for our afternoon excursion a pair of White-chinned Prinias performed admirably to set us off in high spirits. 

Black-and-white Shrike-Flycatcher

We walked around Bigodi Swamp in the afternoon, which was a little quiet. However, we still notched up a number of goodies beginning with a Tambourine Dove perched next to the path, followed by Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Violet-backed Starling, Grey-winged Robin-Chat having a feast at an ant swarm and a Little Greenbul. We did get brief views of a White-spotted Flufftail, saw a Red-bellied Paradise-Flycatcher, Magpie Manikin and a close pair of Black-and-white Shrike-Flycatchers. Plus some monkeys….!!