Mengbi Shan

We spent the whole day on the slopes of the beautiful pine clad slopes of Mengbishan on the hunt for the very difficult Sichuan Jay – made even more tricky by the number of other groups and birders going to the same spot and blasting out the call! Needless to say these birds are no longer tape responsive anymore and there was no sign of them throughout our two-day vigil. 

Mengbi Shan

But there are a number of other special birds here and overall we did very well indeed. We began with an attempt at Koklass Pheasant which resulted in a calling male flying right over the leaders’ head and past the group. The first of many Blood Pheasants to be seen today appeared here as well and got the day off to a good start. So we drove up higher and parked beside the road for our picnic breakfast and as the mist lifted and the day warmed up plenty of birds began to sing, mainly Buff-barred Warblers and a few Alpine Leaf-warblers amongst others, but the distinctive buzzy song of a Hume’s Warbler led us to great views of this little sprite. 

Crested Tit-warbler

Crested Tit-warbler

Crested Tit-warbler

Crested Tit-warbler

But when a Crested Tit-warbler was spotted, everything else paled into insignificance compared to this little beauty. A Long-tailed Thrush was then seen and the first of many Himalayan Bluetails was much appreciated. After spending several hours on the jay vigil, some respite was needed so we walked down the road and soon found our first Chinese Fulvetta and Slaty-blue Flycatcher. 

Przewalski's Nuthatch

Przewalski's Nuthatch

Then a Przewalski’s Nuthatch appeared and sat on top of a small pine tree where it remained for several minutes – what a bird! As we watched this a Black Woodpecker flew in and landed in a dead tree nearby for a few seconds before launching itself off into the safety of the forest, and even came back for a second view just moments later. 

Giant Laughingthrush

Giant Laughingthrush

Giant Laughingthrush

There was also a few Rufous-vented Tits, White-winged Grosbeak, Goldcrest and a confiding Giant Laughingthrush that refused to go away. At the base of the mountain a Black-capped Kingfisher was seen perched on telegraph wires beside a fast-flowing stream.

Balangshan - one final time!

We left the hotel in the rain and headed one last time up into the mighty Balangshan where we headed for the monal site, arriving just before first light. The weather rapidly became clearer and the views across to the other mountains were very impressive indeed but our main focus was the hillside above the road where Tang had seen a Koklass Pheasant yesterday. There was nothing doing here and with a couple other tour group showing up we made a hasty retreat and walked along the road. What a good move this turned out to be as first a Giant Laughingthrush appeared and then we had amazing views of a Spotted Bush-warbler that responded vey aggressively and flew across the road a few times, perching right out in the open, calling away. Just around the corner we heard a Verreaux’s Monal-Partridge calling and spent some time trying to call it in, but when it was spotted on the top of the hill we finally realised it wasn’t close! The view in the scope was very nice and it remained calling for a long time, whilst further along the same ridge a female Chinese Monal was also seen. A Blue-fronted Redstart was bringing food into its small young in a nest beside the road and as we watched the fine male a Blood Pheasant began calling. This must have been one of the most responsive ever as it came straight in and showed very well, even running across the road twice. 

Golden Bush-robin

Then a random bit of tape playing resulted in a superb male Golden Bush-robin flying in and perching right in front of us. A Himalayan Bluetail also put in an appearance, and a Chinese Fulvetta only showed briefly but we knew we’d see that later in the trip. 

Snow Partridge

Tibetan Snowcock

Tibetan Snowcock

Tibetan Snowcock

So moving further up the mountain we had fine looks at several Snow Partridges, giving much better views than before. And when a pair of Tibetan Snowcock were spotted as we drove higher, we knew we were having one of those special days you get once in a while! The pair of snowcocks jut fed on the grassy slope above us totally unconcerned by our presence and we soaked up the views, only getting distracted by another pair of Snow Partridges and a cracking male Streaked Rosefinch. Once down the other side of the mountain we made a few brief stops before checking out the traditional site where Wallcreepers nest and a fine adult male was feeding just 20 metres above the road as soon as we arrived. 

Wallcreeper - again

Wallcreeper

However, a flock of 20+ Black-browed Tits here was something of a distraction and they were accompanied by a lone Sichuan Willow Tit. 

Black-browed Tit

Black-browed tit - Hello!

Black-browed Tit

After lunch in Rilong we set out on the drive to Maerkang where would stay for the next three nights.

Balangshan

We got back to the monal site by first light with the intention of getting Koklass Pheasant but despite several calling birds in the immediate vicinity, none were on view, but we did see a few White Eared Pheasants again. So we headed through the tunnel and tried our luck with Verreaux’s Monal-partridge, again with the same result. However, Common, Chinese Beautiful and Chinese White-browed Rosefinches were present, and we also saw a pair of White-winged Grosbeaks before heading up to the top in search of Tibetan Snowcock. 

Red-fronted Rosefinch (male)

Red-fronted Rosefinch (female)

As we got higher we found ourselves in the low cloud and visibility was again hampered, so after a few abortive attempts at checking the area only resulted in nice views of Red-fronted Rosefinch we drove over the pass. Lo and behold it was clear on this side and even warm! 

Grandala

So we staked out one particular area which had Grandala and flocks of Brandt’s Mountain-finches, but it wasn’t until a while later that a Tibetan Snowcock was found by yours truly on a walkabout and dragged everyone across country (despite the altitude) to view a huge open area set back away from the road. Unfortunately this bird had gone by the time we had got there, but another one flew across the slope and ran up into the scree allowing a few people to get on to it. 

White-tailed Rubythroat

There was also a White-tailed Rubythroat and Rufous-breasted Accentor here to keep us occupied for a while. But we needn’t have worried as a little later we found a snowcock on the slope above us and we had cracking views in the scope as it fed on a grassy area for quite a long time. Needless to say, after all the hours spent searching, everyone was elated with this and even caused an early ‘picnic’ lunch. Afterwards we drove lower and as well as enjoying the warmth and sunshine feasted our eyes on a superb singing White-tailed Rubythroat close to the road, as well as Streaked and Pink-rumped Rosefinches, and as a confiding Alpine Leaf-warbler. 

Alpine Leaf-warbler

Leaving here we drove back over the pass and down through thick low cloud and only stopped for birding when we had descended into clearer weather. 

Grey-crested Tit

Graham spotted a Maroon-backed Accentor feeding unobtrusively on the forest floor, whilst a Grey-crested Tit did the opposite and gave ‘in your face’ views right in front of us. And we ended the day with a Slaty-backed Flycatcher before returning to the hotel in Sawan Village.

Balangshan

A 4am start saw us driving up towards Balangshan Pass and past the apparently sleeping local police - we couldn't wait for them to give us the go ahead. Apparently they were going to make us use 2 smaller minivans - like some other tour companies were forced to do! 

Balangshan

Balangshan

Balangshan

Balangshan

Anyway, we arrived half an hour before dawn in order to be in place to witness the amazing display of Wood Snipe. After a few minutes the distinctive call started, followed by the sound of the wind rushing through their wings and we eventually saw several birds displaying across the clear sky. Once it was fully daylight the display was over so we drove down the mountain a short distance to scan the surrounding hillside for our main target of the day, the spectacular Chinese Monal. After several minutes of scanning Tang picked up 4 White Eared Pheasants feeding on the hillside above us and we had great views in the scope. But the minutes were ticking by and no monals were showing, so we wondered if they weren’t around today. With a brief Collared Grosbeak, singing Chestnut Thrush and a Dark-breasted Rosefinch to distract us things weren’t too bad, but all of a sudden a dark shape sat on a rock turned its head! There it was, a beautiful male Chinese Monal in all its glory and what a view through the scope with a beautiful golden nape and iridescent plumage it certainly is an amazing bird. We picked it up a little while later and were able to watch it for a further twenty minutes in nice sunshine as it fed on the grassy slope before disappearing into the low scrub. As we were watching this a Spotted Bush-warbler called from the verge above us but remained hidden from view. 

Birding in the Mist

So then we left here and headed right up and over the pass in search of Tibetan Snowcock but we were hampered by a thick mist and would have to leave this bird for another day. However, we did pick up Plain Mountain-finch, both Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, Rosy Pipit, Rufous-breasted Accentor and Brian P spotted a lone Snow Pigeon tucked away amongst some rocks which we all managed to get on. So we then headed down to find some clearer weather, making several stops and had Snow Partridge, Alpine Accentor, Lammergeier and many Himalayan Griffons before our lunch stop. Afterwards we walked along the road getting Vinaceous Rosefinch, Himalayan Bluetail, White-browed Fulvetta, Sichuan Leaf-warbler and Grey-headed bullfinch as well as a few other birds but generally it was rather quiet. 

Chinese Babax

Buff-throated Warbler

So we drove down to the river valley and staked out a site for Golden Pheasant which necessitated constant scanning of some clearings on the hillsides above us. During our two hour vigil we had great comparisons with both Buff-barred and Yellow-streaked Warblers constantly vying for our attention, as well as our best views of Chinese Babax. Eventually, and just as we had reached the end of our patience Peter spotted a cracking male Golden Pheasant walking across a clearing to finish off a successful day despite the frustrating weather.

Labahe to Rilong

We left the mountains at Labahe this morning after one last try for Golden Parrotbill that resulted in a few of the group getting another glimpse. The drive down to the lowlands was certainly spectacular and we didn’t really stop anywhere too long, just getting a brief flight view of a Grey-faced Woodpecker, along with Yellow-bellied Tit and a few other common species along the roadside. Breakfast was typically Chinese in the nearest town and then we headed across the arable landscape, but still quite ‘birdy’ as we had a confiding Rufous-faced Warbler, a Chinese Goshawk, and called in a Chinese Bamboo-partridge that flew down the hillside towards us. A Russet Sparrow also put in an appearance here, whilst both Indian and Eurasian Cuckoos called in the distance. 

Himalayan Griffon Vulture

Moving on we drove through spectacular gorges with huge peaks dominating the skyline and saw our first Himalayan Griffon Vultures soaring over in this dramatic landscape, and continued our best raptor day so far with a few Himalayan Buzzards later in the day. Stopping for fuel added Daurian Redstart and our lunch stop added Blue Rock-thrush in a large town. A nice sighting came when stopping for vultures, a Godlewski’s Bunting perched on a roadside telegraph wire was joined by a Black-faced Bunting. With time passing all too quickly we made a number of relatively quick stops, first of all when a Wallcreeper flew across the road in front of us. 

Wallcreeper

Wallcreeper

We jumped out and had amazing views of a bird feeding on the slope below us before treating us to an aerial display for several minutes. At this spot we also called in a Yellow-streaked Warbler and had a brief view of an Alpine Leaf-warbler. A few Hill Pigeons followed, along with Eurasian Crag-martin, Blue-fronted Redstart and Elliot’s Laughingthrush. And before the Jianshan pass amidst nice pine forest we found Rufous-vented Tit, a few Hodgson’s Treecreepers and Yellow-browed Tit, whilst a few Kessler’s Thrushes were present on the pass. As we approached Balangshan the local police stopped us proceeding any further and we had to spend the night in  the town and await instructions in the morning!

Labahe

We headed down the mountain and spent the morning walking along a trail that zigzagged its way into the hills and we turned up a number of very good birds and another mega as well, but more of that later. The habitat was fantastic with beautiful valleys complete with mist rising out of the river and rolling forest-cloaked hills more reminiscent of eastern Europe. 

Slaty Bunting (female)

We began with a surprise find in the shape of the endemic Slaty Bunting, several of which were seen during our walk and an excellent way to begin the day. The demure Brownish-flanked Bush-warbler was then called in, before we tried to catch a glimpse of a singing Chinese Song Thrush which was only seen in flight, as was a Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon. A Barred Laughingthrush was a surprise and it was a shame that a Spotted Laughingthrush couldn’t be enticed closer, although a flock of White-throated Laughingthrushes was a nice find. 

Elegant Bunting

Meanwhile a fine Elegant Bunting sat out in the open for all to admire and another Fujian Niltava appeared briefly, and there was also Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler, a pair of Chinese Babax sat up nicely in a tree at the back of a clearing and Chestnut-vented Nuthatch all seen. We concentrated on the numerous stands of bamboo as we knew that the endemic and rarely-seen Golden-fronted Fulvetta had been seen here recently, but all we found to start with was numerous Golden-breasted Fulvettas and Rufous-capped Babblers. 

Emei Leaf-warbler

The distinctive trilling song of an Emei Leaf-warbler was soon tracked down and we also found another couple a little later as well. But when we reached just about as far as we could walk and had to think about turning back, a pair of endemic  Grey-hooded Fulvettas appeared, and after a while a third bird appeared in the shadows behind them..........

Grey-hooded Fulvetta

It took a little time to confirm the fact we had an endemic and mega Golden-fronted Fulvetta in front of us, but it didn’t linger too long and allowed most of the group to get onto it. Wow! Wish I could have got a record shot of it, but it was too mobile and skulky! 

Kloss's Leaf-warbler

Heading back down to the waiting coach we picked up Kloss’s Leaf-warbler and Buff-throated Warbler, along with some previously mentioned species to round off a good morning’s birding. In the afternoon we drove back down the mountain to a lower elevation and quickly picked up Marten’s Warbler singing beside the road and giving some relatively decent views. As we drove back to our cabins, we saw a Mountain Hawk-eagle soaring along the side of the hills. And upon arrival back at base we staked out the bamboo and were rewarded with 3 Golden Parrotbills to round off a great day’s birding.

Temminck's Tragopan

The male Temminck's Tragopan showed so well, and it was a great opportunity to study and watch such a beautiful creature. In fact a real privilege - so here's just a few more pics of this little cracker....!

Labahe (again)

I left the rather tricky decision of whether to venture back up to the top of the mountain or head lower down until breakfast this morning. As we gathered at Tang’s cabin just before 6am it did seem that the cloud was higher than yesterday so took the gamble to head up to the top boardwalk and our decision was vindicated by the great view across to the surrounding mountain tops which were clearly visible. 

Labahe

Labahe

Labahe

We wasted no time in heading along the boardwalk and spent the whole morning in rather patient manner scouring the surrounding area. A slow start began with all of the usual warblers being seen including Sichuan Leaf-warbler, but a Buff-barred Warbler was new for us as it sang from a close pine tree, whilst a pair of Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrushes were present in the valley below us. A few Brown Parrotbills were present in the dense stand of bamboo that borders the whole boardwalk, but we were more intent on finding the apparently elusive fulvous variety which remained inconsiderately absent throughout the morning. However, when a Firethroat began singing nearby all of our attentions diverted to searching for this much-wanted cracker! In fact it took just a few seconds to find it perched on a low branch in a pine tree where it remained for ages. We set the scope up and enjoyed prolonged views of the whole bird and were able to appreciate the stunning plumage of this usually shy and skulking species that can be a very tricky bird to get a decent look at under normal circumstances. 

Firethroat

Shortly afterwards a White-bellied Redstart began singing and knowing it would remain invisible in its bamboo home we took a narrow, muddy trail made by the Takins towards the bird. It was definitely a stubborn one but after some time it kindly hopped up onto some tree roots and began to sing for a little while before melting away. 

White-bellied Redstart

White-bellied Redstart

The last bird of the morning was a mega, when a pair of Rufous-tailed Babblers were found skulking around a fallen tree but eventually showed reasonably well, even copulating at one stage right in front of us! 

Rufous-tailed Babbler - record shot!

After a picnic lunch we walked back up to the top and as fortune would have it, came across a small group of Fulvous Parrotbills feeding beside the boardwalk. After several minutes of great views we left, seeing a brief Grey-hooded Fulvetta along the way before walking down the mountain road, getting decent looks at Bianchi’s Warbler and several more Spotted Nutcrackers before reaching the area where we had the liocichlas yesterday. There was no sign of them today, but a Fujian Niltava was a surprise and as we tried to relocate it following a Houdini act we came across a male Lady Amhert’s Pheasant to add to the nice views from earlier today. Several Elliot’s Laughingthrushes were seen, followed by a fine male Blue-fronted Redstart before we took a side trail. This proved to be a good move as we saw a pair of Chinese White-browed Rosefinches, another White-bellied Redstart showed well, as did a fabulous Chestnut-headed Tesia that sang its little heart out beside the track. I managed to get a few shots of it, but there was always a branch or leaf in front of it!!

Chestnut-headed Tesia

Chestnut-headed Tesia

But with dark clouds looming and a few spots of rain it seemed our day was over, but how wrong can you be? Very as it turned out when a Brown Bush-warbler responded pretty well to the ipod, and then a sprightly Fire-capped Tit was scoped as it visited its nesting hole. But the major surprise was a White-shouldered Startling found in a nearby tree which is apparently a late migrant and possibly the first record for this site. 

White-shouldered Starling

With a very brief view of Black-faced Laughingthrush to add to our earlier sighting and another Grey-headed Bullfinch perched on top of a pine tree we then headed back down to the hotel in the jeeps. A spur of the moment decision to walk the final couple of kilometres turned out to be of almost divine intervention as within a couple of minutes we were face-to-face with an extremely territorial male Temminck’s Tragopan that came down the hill to get a closer look at us. He then proceeded to display aggressively by rapidly flapping his wings before moving from one prominent position to another above us before finally flying up into a tree. A female was also present but barely warranted a second glance, so mesmerised were we by this beautiful orange and blue apparition and found it hard to drag ourselves away, but we left them in peace and headed down for an early dinner. 

Temminck's Tragopan (female)

Temminck's Tragopan