Lake Oruru

An early doors exit from Cochabamba saw us departing the city and heading up into the hills once more, this time on our way to La Paz. We were heading to Lake Oruru but made a few stops along the way, the first of which was caused by a distant bird perched up on some rocks in the puna zone. After a slow walk closer it turned out to be the first of two Black-billed Shrike-tyrants seen this morning and the same area also gave us Cinereous Ground-tyrant. 

Black-billed Shrike-tyrant

The road then wound its way down into more arid country and we made a short walk around an old church where we were lucky to get a couple of Mountain Parakeets flying over. There was also a pair of Andean Hillstars and a male Black-hooded Sierra-finch here as well. 

Andean Avocet

By late morning we were approaching the large town of Oruru and beside a smallish area of water we had great close views of Andean Avocet, Andean Gull, White-backed Stilt and dozens of Mountain Caracaras, plus a few Baird’s Sandpipers. 

Andean Gull

Baird's Sandpiper

After a chaotic time crossing the town we eventually reached the lake which was very dry and had to drive several more kilometres to find any water at all. Eventually around the far side we found some ‘agua’ and a congregation of flamingos. The majority of the flock comprised the yellow-legged Andean and rosy-legged Chilean Flamingos. 

Chilean Flamingos

After double-checking in the field guide it became apparent that there were several James’s Flamingo’s here as well – a big result for us. There were also plenty of ducks here and amongst the Puna and Speckled Teal we picked up a single Yellow-billed Pintail and a pair of Crested Ducks. An Andean Negrito was then spotted, and a Yellow-winged Blackbird perched up nicely in the rushes nearby and began to sing. A quick search for more open water drew a blank so we returned to the same area and had lunch which was interrupted by at least 4 Puna Plovers feeding out on the mud flats. 

Brown-backed Mockingbird

The last goodie of the day was found as we were driving back to the town when a Brown-backed Mockingbird appeared beside the road and prompted a hasty exit from the coach. All that was left was the long drive to La Paz and the ensuing traffic chaos but finally we arrived at a lovely hotel where we’d be staying for the next 3 nights.

Cerro Tunari

Following a later than usual breakfast we drove through the suburbs of Cochabamba and headed up into the highlands of Cerro Tunari. 

Cerro Tunari

Cerro Tunari

With many potential new species on offer it was with a good deal of excitement that we made our first stop and sure enough we were not to be disappointed with Rufous-sided Warbling-finch, Grey-hooded Parakeet and the endemic Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer all seen easily. A Giant Hummingbird was also present and perched below us, the first of many White-winged Black Tyrants showed well and Band-tailed Seedeater was slightly less impressive but when a spectacular Red-tailed Comet appeared behind us there was no doubt that it would be bird of the day….. 

Grey-hooded Parakeet

Moving higher up through the scenic valley we found Bare-faced Ground-dove and Rusty-vented Canastero before checking out our first area of Polylepsis forest. Feeding around the branches of one such tree were both Tawny and Brown-capped Tit-spinetails, both of which were frequent sightings throughout the day. A few people were lucky enough to catch sight of a pair of Andean Tinamou (our 5^th tinamou species of the trip) scuttling for cover but everyone was distracted when a very colourfully plumaged Golden-breasted Woodpecker (flicker) was found on the other side of the road and the tinamous were promptly forgotten. The same site also gave us a pair of White-browed Chat-tyrants and a small bird skulking in the bushes proved to be a Cinereous Conebill. The scenery from here on was getting better and better with impressive mountains all around and the birds kept on coming. The Holy Grail (according to Malcolm) of Bolivian Blackbird duly fell under our relentless pursuit of lifers as a few birds fed on the slope below us. A mountain stream looked good for something and sure enough Paul picked up a Torrent Duck and there was also White-winged Cinclodes – although this should be referred to as Creamy-bellied Cinclodes, a recent split. 

High up on Cerro Tunari

Further on, a Rufous-bellied Saltator was found, before we drove right up to 4100m and the puna zone which was totally devoid of any ground-tyrants, so we headed back down to more promising terrain. 

Bar-winged Cinclodes

David spotted a White-winged Diuca-finch perched on a rock and a Bar-winged Cinclodes was watched as it brought juicy worms into its nest tucked under a bridge. Moving lower a Streak-fronted Thornbird was seen building a nest on the hillside above us and then a Rock Earthcreeper was called in to give outstanding views, and a Plain-coloured Seedeater was also found. 

Rock Earthcreeper

As we ate our lunch on the bus due to a heavy shower, a D’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant appeared beside us, and fortunately the rain stopped and we walked along the road checking various patches of Polylepsis for Giant Conebill, which never materialised. However, more new birds were found with stunning Cochabamba Mountain-finches, both Peruvian and Black-hooded Sierra-finches, better views of the saltator and other previously seen species. 

Cochabamba Mountain-finch

When an Olive-crowned Crescentchest began calling we didn’t hold out much hope as earlier in the day we had tried another singing individual without any luck whatsoever. Unbelievably, this bird did respond and came a long way down the hillside and we were fortunate to watch a pair feeding on the ground for a few minutes, What a stunning bird and it duly knocked the comet off its perch for bird of the day. Even better was to come a short while later with a singing bird at point-blank range just a little further on. Wow! 

Olive-crowned Crescentchest

We finished the day with brief views for some of Bolivian Warbling-finch and a Cordilleran Canastero, before returning to the hotel with plenty of lifers safely tucked under our belts and a good suntan!

Return Journey to Cochabamba

We headed up into the cloud forest on our way back to Cochabamba this morning and our first stop gave us several cool-looking Inca Jays, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Bolivian Brush-finch, Blackburnian Warbler, Andean Guan, Cinnamon Flycatcher and best of all, an obliging Blue-banded Toucanet. 

Bolivian Brush-finch

Blue-banded Toucanet

Next up was a flyover Double-toothed Kite which we noticed whilst watching a White-capped Dipper feeding alongside a tumbling mountain stream. It wasn’t looking too good for our chances of the endemic Black-throated Thistletail as we tried a few spots without any joy, although Glossy-black Thrush was new for some and a Streak-throated Bush-tyrant was new to our list. However,  after much searching Miguel finally ‘pulled the rabbit out of the hat’ when he found a skulking thistletail and it gave decent views for all of us in the end. At the same area some of the group managed glimpses of Rufous-faced Antpitta and a migrating Swainson’s Hawk was a surprise flyover here. We then spent the majority of the day before the rain came in, along the side-road at Tablas Mountain and during lunch we finally nailed a pair of awesome Hooded Mountain-toucans which posed perfectly on moss-encrusted trees. 

Hooded Mountain-toucan

There was also Rust-and-yellow Tanager, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, perched Black-winged Parrot, Rufous-bellied Bush-tyrant, Spectacled Whitestart and plenty of other common species. 

Spectacled Whitestart

The clouds then descended and heavy rain set in by mid-afternoon so we headed over the pass and down to Cochabamba. 

Carrasco National Park

We spent the day in Carrasco National Park beginning just after breakfast with lots of Yellow-rumped Caciques, Magpie Tanager, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Pale-breasted Thrush, Blue-grey Tanager and the not-so splendid delights of a female Double-collared Seedeater. Approaching the Park HQ we called in a cracking pair of Chestnut-tailed Antbirds, then had the superb Paradise Tanager and not that pretty Speckled Chachalaca. 

Paradise Tanager

We then had to cross the river in a ‘cable car’ that was pulled across by hand, by our local guide and so gain entry into the park. Once inside this excellent forest, birding was rather slow but we still picked up another Flammulated Pygmy-tyrant, both Sepia-capped and Yellow-olive Flycatchers, Red-crowned Ant-tanager, Red-headed Manakin and Rufous Motmot. 

Oilbirds

But our main purpose was to visit a secluded cave where a colony of Oilbirds could be seen. And what strange birds they are, but we had superb views of at least fifteen birds including a chick on a nest. This was one of the major highlights of the tour so far for me, a lifer and a bird i'd always wanted to see. Don't get many of those in Asia! 

Sunbittern on a nest

Tearing ourselves away from here we saw a few bats in another cave before getting to grips with Black-faced Antthrush and a Tawny-crowned Greenlet before returning to the Park HQ for our lunch. The afternoon was a bit of a washout as it rained pretty much most of the time, but we did pick up Red-legged Honeycreeper, and found a Sunbittern on a nest with a small chick before getting back to the lodge quite early and the chance for a good rest.