Tablas Montes

Headed up to the humid Yungas forest of Tablas Montes this morning, stopping at San Isidro Lagoon where we saw White-tufted and Silvery Grebes, Andean Coot, Yellow-billed Pintail, Yellow-billed Teal, Andean Duck and our first Andean Gulls on the way up.

Tablas Montes

Once the road started to descend we took a side track into some great habitat but it was misty and raining heavily upon arrival. 

Violet-throated Starfrontlet in the mist

Thankfully within a few minutes the weather cleared and we enjoyed good weather all day. But in the mist to start with a Violet-throated Starfrontlet posed close by, quickly followed by the first of several Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, Red-crested Cotinga, Azara’s Spinetail, Blue-backed Conebill, White-crested Elaenia, Spectacled Whitestart and some flyover Pale-footed Swallows.

Spectacled Whitestart

 Walking slowly downhill we came upon a Blue-capped Tanager, followed by a Sierran Elaenia, Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Blue-black Tanager – another potential split, Rust-and-yellow Tanager and just before our coffee break a pair of Golden-browed Chat-Tyrants skulked in the shadows. 

Bolivian Tyrannulet 

Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant

The birding slowed by mid-morning but around a clearing we picked up a flock with several Tyrian Metaltails, Barred Becard, Highland Elaenia, Smoke-coloured Pewee, Masked Flowerpiercer, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, and a Long-tailed Sylph also appeared. 

White-browed Brush-Finch

Walking on we had Light-crowned Spinetail and a pair of White-browed Brush-Finches, Gould’s Inca and a showy Citrine Warbler before lunch. The afternoon was only really memorable for a couple of calling and non-responsive Blue-banded Toucanets. We did see a few previously seen species but it was really hard going and we left for the drive back to our hotel in Cochabamba at 4pm, hoping to avoid the rush hour traffic.

Cerro Tunari

Our day began after a later breakfast and a Sparkling Violetear feeding in a large flowering tree outside the front door of the hotel. Then we headed up into the high hills of Cerro Tunari where the first bird as we left the coach was a Bolivian Blackbird. Pretty soon after a Bolivian Warbling-Finch was teed up in the scope but it flew away before everyone in the group could lay eyeballs on it, and we were left with flocks of Rufous-sided Warbling-Finches to sift through to no avail. Overhead, we saw Andean Swifts, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and a few Mountain Caracaras. Moving higher up we came across a Yungas Dove walking along a channel below the road, Collared Warbling-Finch,Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Peruvian Sierra-Finch, White-tipped Plantcutter and an Andean Hillstar.

Andean Hillstar

Around some bushes near a small settlement a Cochabamba Mountain-Finch showed well, as did Rufous-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Saltator), a pair of Streak-fronted Thornbirds gave good views. Our picnic spot beside a patch of Polylepsis forest turned out to be very good with a flock of Greenish Yellow-Finches, Tawny Tit-Spinetail and a Giant Conebill.

Cochabamba Mountain-Finch

Rufous-bellied Mountain Tanager (Saltator)

Tawny Tit-Spinetail

Giant Conebill

Greenish Yellow-Finch

After lunch we drove to just over 4000m and into the puna zone where Taczanowski’s Ground Tyrant was seemingly common. 

Cerro Tunari

There was a flock of Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches, several White-winged Diuca-Finches and Cream-winged Cinclodes to keep us entertained. Driving back down a random stop to look at some Bright-rumped Yellow-Finches produced walk-away scope views of a pair of stunning Ornate Tinamou feeding and walking across an open area opposite the road. Wow! 

A phonescoped Ornate Tinamou

We also saw Black-winged Ground-Dove, a Black Siskin in a flock of Hooded Siskins, and a Red-crested Cotinga. As we drove further downhill a flock of Mountain Parakeets flew across in front of the coach and landed nearby. 

Fulvous-headed brush-Finch

When they flew off we got out of the coach to search for them and had good looks at Maquis Canastero and a huge surprise in the shape of a pair of Fulvous-headed Brush-Finches to round off another good day. 

Siberia Cloud Forest - Cochabamba

Headed back up to the higher reaches of Siberia Cloud Forest after another 4.30am breakfast, arriving just after daybreak. The forest here is amazing with moss encrusted trees all around, but it was unfortunate that the infamous Bolivian roadworks have reached here and roadside birding was tricky. At our first stop a couple of Crimson-bellied Mountain-Tanagers tried their best to sneak by us as they fed in some low bushes. A Tyrian Metaltail was scoped, a Golden-headed Quetzal eluded almost everyone, a few Bolivian Brush-Finches appeared, Spectacled Whitestart posed at the top of a tree, as did a pair of Masked Flowerpiercers, Scaly-naped Parrot flew over and a White-browed Chat-Tyrant was also seen.

Our office this morning

Up at the pass a few Yellow-billed Teal, several Andean Lapwings and a Wilson’s Phalarope adorned the pool, but roadside birding again proved fruitless. However a Hellmayr’s Pipit was scoped, and as we drove a away a Red-crested Cotinga was spotted. 

Red-crested Cotinga

A few kilometres downhill and we began walking along the road, which turned out to be fortuitous as a pair of Plushcaps were seen feeding in the bamboo here. Then we had a mad few minutes with a pair of Light-crowned Spinetails showing uncharacteristically well out in the open, Azara’s Spinetail, Sierran Elaenia, Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch, and a Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner showed really well.

Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch

Moving on the scenery became much drier and arid with cactus dotting the hillsides. A Great Pampa-Finch seemed a little out of place at our next stop and was a different race to the ones seen in Trinidad. 

Birding and scenery along the way to Cochabamba

A Black-winged Ground-Dove was more expected, and a Green-barred Woodpecker was also found. A little further on we checked out some roadside scrubby areas and found a Wedge-tailed Hillstar, quite often a tricky species to find. Also here was a Band-tailed Seedeater, Andean Swift and a Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant. We had lunch here in the shade of some tall Eucalyptus trees. 

Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer

Rock Earthcreeper

Our last stop of the day at a side valley was mind-blowing! We began walking along a dirt road beside a stream and came across a Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer feeding beside the track, and as we watched this a Rock Earthcreeper began calling and we had great views. On the slope above us there was a lot of activity and after a little consternation we nailed a pair of Brown-capped Tit-Spinetails, one of which came right down to take a look at us. Then a Giant Hummingbird appeared, followed by a stunning Red-tailed Comet. 

Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail

A couple of Rufous-sided Warbling-Finches were then picked out above us and we also found a pair of nest-building Creamy-breasted Canasteros. We also had another pair of these beauties further along the valley which showed particularly well. 

Creamy-breasted Canastero

Around the corner 3 Bare-faced Ground-Doves were feeding on the track in front of us, a Grass Wren sang its heart out, Miguel and Jules had a Rust-and-yellow Tanager, and a field was alive with Band-tailed Seedeaters and a few Plain-coloured Seedeaters. As we watched them a pair of Cochabamba Mountain-Finches appeared and gave absolutely awesome views. 

Cochabamba Mountain-Finch

Then a Rufous-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Saltator) flew into a bush next to us, a Tufted Tit-Tyrant appeared, and a flock of Grey-hooded Parakeet flew over and landed in a tree. The weedy fields were alive with seedeaters, Hooded Siskins, Golden-billed Saltators and it was a real pleasure to have lots of birds all around us. A White-browed Chat-Tyrant was next up at the same spot, and we scoped the parakeets, whilst an Olive-crowned Crescentchest sang behind us and looked stunning in the scope. 

Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant

Overhead we picked out a few Brown-bellied Swallows amongst the Blue-and-white Swallows and we finished with more Great Pampa-Finches and a pair of Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrants.

Siberia Cloud Forest

Comarapa is excellently situated to visit Siberia cloud forest, just a short three-quarters of an hour drive from our hotel. So it was another early 4.30am breakfast and then we were off up into the hills where it was just about light enough upon arrival to see a calling White-throated Tyrannulet. This was one of the best days of the tour with so many new birds to keep us occupied throughout the day and pretty quickly we saw several of the distinctive local race of Common Bush Tanager, Mountain Wren, endemic Bolivian Brush-Finch, and an obliging Trilling Tapaculo. 

Tyrian Metaltail

I just couldn’t believe that our first attempt at seeing the endemic Rufous-faced Antpitta resulted in almost everyone seeing it, as it hopped out onto a narrow path in front of us on three occasions! Wow!  We followed this with Andean Slaty thrush, Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, and the first of many Tyrian Metaltails. 

Andean Condor

Overhead we saw Andean Condor, Mountain Caracara, Swallow-tailed Kite, Short-tailed Hawk and Bicolored Hawk. 

Swallow-tailed Kite

Meanwhile a stunning Masked Trogon flew in and landed below us on a mossy branch, whilst White-crested Elaenia, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Pearled Treerunner, Bar-bellied Woodpecker and Glossy-black Thrush were all new additions to our ever growing list. 

Bar-bellied Woodpecker

Masked Trogon

Best of all, a pair of mighty Giant Antshrikes gave killer views as they fed just below the track and I’m still amazed how well they showed to the entire group. 

Giant Antshrike (female)

By around 10am bird activity slowed down, but we kept picking up new birds regularly. A cute little White-bellied Woodstar perched on top of a tree showed well in the scope, and at the same spot Blue-winged and Chestnut-bellied Mountain Tanagers appeared, whilst a Lesser Violetear displaced the Woodstar from its lofty perch. Then a Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant was quickly followed by the much rarer Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, before we continued walking along the track with Barred Becard, Blue-backed Conebill and Long-tailed Sylph seen just before we paused for our picnic lunch. 

Rufous-capped Antshrike

More walking down the track resulted in Blue-capped Puffleg, a few more sightings of Pearled Treerunner, White-eared Solitaire, Band-tailed Pigeon and Smoke-coloured Pewee. At 4pm we left and drove to a lower elevation where the dry scrub-covered hillside we visited yesterday was distinctly calmer but still resulted in poor views of Spot-breasted Thornbird. Compensation came in the shape of a Rufous-capped Antshrike that gave several fine views, a flock of Hooded Siskins, a female Red-tailed Comet (endemic), and finally an Ocellated Piculet. What a day!

Saipina Valley

What a cracking morning this proved to be as we birded the Saipina Valley, home to the Critically Endangered Red-fronted Macaw. Our search didn’t bode too well initially as we only had a pair flying high overhead as we scanned the fields and bushes from our vantage point beside the road. But there were lots of new birds such as White-fronted Woodpecker, Golden-billed Saltator, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, and a stunning Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch. 

White-fronted Woodpecker

A phonescoped Golden-billed Saltator

There was also Glittering-bellied Emerald, Blue-tufted Starthroat,  Blue-crowned Parakeets and White-bellied Tyrannulet. 

Blue-crowned Parakeet

From here we drove further into the valley where below some cliffs we found White-winged Black-Tyrant, several of the endemic Cliff Parakeet, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Masked Gnatcatcher, Ringed Warbling-Finch, and a White-bellied Hummer. 

Masked Gnatcatcher

Ringed Warbling-Finch

White-bellied Hummingbird

All of a sudden we heard the distinctive sound of macaws from up the valley and there they were….. A pair flew right past us, circled around and came in to land more or less right beside us on some tall cacti where they called before flying to some bushes a little further away. The flight views in the morning sunshine were spectacular to say the least. Wow! 

Red-fronted Macaw

We followed this with some coffee here and then found a fine Ultramarine Grosbeak and both Grey-crested and Red-crested Finches appeared. 

Ultramarine Grosbeak

We left here and drove into another dry valley where a pair of White-tipped Plantcutters looked fantastic and were a good spot by Martin, whilst there were several more previously seen hummers to keep us entertained.  

Group in the Saipina Valley

Moving on we walked alongside a dry river valley where bird activity continued apace with Streak-fronted Thornbird and Southern Scrub Flycatcher appearing before a pair of awesome Cream-backed Woodpeckers were found. What a bird this is and a lifer for yours truly – a high five moment. 

Cream-backed Woodpecker

We also saw Cliff Flycatcher, the endemic Bolivian Earthcreeper, Stripe-crowned Spinetail and a group of Dusky-legged Guans.

In the afternoon after a siesta we drove up into the hills above Comarapa and struggled to find any birds in the high winds. However, we did get a brief view of a skulking Spot-breasted Thornbird and whilst trying to catch a glimpse of this species a Pectoral Sparrowflew in. We also had a flyby Yungas Dove, Chiguanco Thrush and an attractive Brown-capped Whitestart entertained us for a while. So we decided to head back to the hotel earlier than usual as we had another early start to look forward to!