Madagascar Day 2 - Andasibe-Mantadia NP

We headed into Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, an extensive area of eastern rainforest. Habitat that is home to a large number of endemics. The drive in was, well… tortuous to say the least, being a bumpy, dirt track and thank goodness that it is dry now as it looks like it could be slippy quagmire after rain. At least a Crested Drongo was seen on the way in but after a 90 minute drive we were ready for a walk! The first stake-out we tried was for Pitta-like Ground-Rollerand in no time at all we were hearing a calling bird that seemed to be high up in the canopy. This species proved particularly tricky to see and sure enough, only a couple of the group laid binoculars on it as this flighty individual really didn’t want to be seen. A little frustrating but they are easier at Ranomafana later in the trip. We wound our way along some barely discernable trails through the forest, crossing a small stream at one point in our ground-roller quest. It’s difficult to know how far we walked but as the early morning chill and mist gave way to bright sunshine, the temperature rose and we began to sweat! All that was forgotten when we eventually found a crippling Short-legged Ground-Roller perched quite high up in the canopy. 

Short-legged Ground Roller

After a bit of manoeuvring we got a much better angle from a low bank and the ‘front on’ views were to die for. Oh yes! The ticking-pace quickened from here on in with Malagasy Brush Warbler, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascan Magpie-Robin, Madagascan Cuckoo, Malagasy Turtle Dove and Madagascan Blue Pigeon all being seen shortly after. 

Madagascan Cuckoo

Madagascan Blue Pigeon

 A short drive took us below a forested hill and up we walked with the aim to see a nesting Collared Nightjar. At the base of the hill a Wedge-tailed Jery showed very well, a Spectacled Tetraka was too quick for most but a Red-fronted Coua was stunning. The hike ‘up the hill’ was an adventure in itself and got us all sweating and puffing a bit but when we arrived at the appointed spot I couldn’t believe it. The nightjar was about 5 metres off the ground in the middle of a tree fern, apparently sat on its nest! How bizarre. The walk back down was pretty steep, but in all the hike had taken around an hour although to some it felt longer. I think everyone was glad to reach the flat paths and we were rewarded with Grey-crowned Tetraka, Long-billed Bernier and a pair of canopy dwelling Blue Vangas. 

From here we walked to the small lake, seeing  Souimanga Sunbirdand plenty of Olive Bee-eatersalong the way but boy was it hot. Yet a fine Madagascan Grebe lolling in the middle of the lake was very much appreciated, as was our picnic lunch here. 

Madagascan Grebe

Indri

Lowland Streaked Tenrac

Madagascan Wagtail

Lots of bee-eaters were flying around, a Broad-billed Roller flew in, a pair of Malagasy Kestrels appeared to be attending a nest in a hole in a large, dead tree and our first Lesser Vasa Parrots were scoped. After lunch we went back to the first site visited this morning and tried Pitta-like Ground Roller without so much as a sniff, but a Common Newtonia showed quite well to round off our birding. We left and set out on the long drive back to the park entrance, as it closed at 4pm (how ridiculous) and arrived back at our digs at 3.15pm for a well deserved rest. After a few hours here we met for the checklist before heading out on a night excursion where we saw a Brown Mouse Lemur, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, and a Nose-horned Chameleon.

Madagascar Day 1 - Andasibe

Our Madagascan adventure began very early as we didn’t arrive at the hotel in Antananarivo until 00:30 at which time we promptly crashed out in our rooms prior to a 6.30am breakfast. This was enlivened by a male Madagascan Stonechat in the gardens – the first of many endemics we were to see over the course of our 3 week tour. It was a short drive to our first birding stop of the day, at Lac Alarobia a wetland right within the city limits of Antananarivo. This site hold a mass of waterfowl comprising he numbers of White-faced Whistling-Ducks and Red-billed Teals. It took a little while to spot our first of 6 endemic Meller’s Ducks but once seen they were obvious, being much bigger and darker than their local neighbours. In the sunny conditions we had to walk around the lake to get better light and in doing so found a couple of stunning Malagasy Pond-Herons, with stunning blue bills and red legs standing our amidst the throng of breeding Squacco Herons, numerous Dimorphic Egrets and several Black Herons also present on the island. 

White-faced Whistling Ducks and Red-billed Teal

Walking on we saw at least two Madagascan Swamp Warblers, a few Malagasy Kingfishers, and at the second lake a couple of Hottentot Teals. Overhead a Malagasy Kestrel and Yellow-billed Kite flew around the clear blue sky. A stunning White-throated Rail walked across the track in front of us very slowly and out into the marsh, and was followed by Madagascan Red Fody, Madagascan Mannikin, Malagasy Coucal and a few Malagasy White-eyes. We had seconds of Meller’s Duck, as well as a superb Broad-billed Roller flying around in front of us on the walk back to our waiting vehicles.

White-throated Rail

A longish drive of a coupe of hours followed across the rather boring countryside of rice fields and cleared hillsides where a couple of Hamerkops, Striated Herons and an olive Bee-eater for Rob enlivened things a little. Eventually we reached a bridge where we scoped a pair of stunning Madagascan Pratincoles perched on their stony island in the middle of the river. Whilst watching them, a Chabert Vanga flew in to the bare tree right in front of us and dallied for a while. What a bird – common but beautiful. 

Chabert Vanga

Madagascan Pratincoles

 We reached Indri Lodge around 3pm and had a little time to unpack and check out the gardens where our first Madagascan Wagtail was seen next to the swimming pool and another Madagascan Stonechat was also present. A really short 5 minute drive into the Andasabe forests followed and what a fantastic couple of hours we were treated to. A narrow trail took us into the woodland and we rattled of new bird after new bird, beginning with a huge Blue Coua lolling around in the canopy above us. Scope views of a staked-out Nuthatch Vanga sat on a nest followed, and then at a small clearing we saw Long-billed Tetraka and a pair of Nelicourvi Weavers in quick succession. 

Nuthatch Vanga

Back on the road and the open woodland was really productive with a cracking Ward’s Flycatcher perched out in the open, a brief Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascan Cuckooshrike, Green Jery singing from the top of a tree, an awesome White-headed Vanga, and several Malagasy Bulbuls. 

Ward's Flycatcher

Madagascan Cuckooshrike

All of these showed very well and were seen in the scope making this a fantastic session. Oh and the day roosting Rainforest Scops-Owl wasn’t too bad either, but it was just a shame the light had dropped a bit too much. 

Rainforest Scops Owl

But what a day with 24 endemic and near-endemics seen. Wow!

Sumapaz and Beyond!

Everyone apart from Rob and myself had early flights so we decided to make the most of this ‘spare’ day and visited Sumapaz with Jose. This is another high-altitude site close to Bogota and I’m including our sightings here for sake of completeness and to give an idea what is possible. We had amazing close views of the endemic Apolinar’s Wren within a few minutes of arriving. 

Green-bearded Helmetcrest (female)

It took a bit longer to find the endemic Green-bearded Helmetcrest but we did find a pair eventually, whilst the other stand-out bird was Northern Tawny Antpitta– a different species to the one seen on the main tour according to HBW. In fact, this species was incredibly common up here and we enjoyed repeated views. 

Northern Tawny Antpitta

Other birds seen up here included Andean Teal, Andean Duck, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Chestnut-winged Cinclodes, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, Bronze-tailed Thornbill, a few Noble Snipe, Greater Yellowlegs, what appeared to be a Plain-breasted Hawk, Andean Siskin, Shining Sunbeam, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, and a flock of 30+ migrating Lesser Nighthawks. 

Indigo-capped Hummingbird

By mid-morning we were done here and took a longish drive to a secret site with a stack of feeders attracting numerous endemic Indigo-capped Hummingbirds. Also present were Black-throated Mango and White-vented Plumeleteer amongst others. It was a lovely spot to have lunch and enjoy all of the frenzied activity before driving to the airport for our late evening flight home.

The End of the Road.....

We left the excellent El Dorado Lodge after breakfast, seeing for the last time species such as Black-hooded Thrush, Band-tailed Guan, Lazuline Sabrewing etc. 

Band-tailed Guan

A few stops at various points as we descended the mountain proved to be productive beginning with a perched endemic Santa Marta Blossomcrown at a known stake-out for this sometimes tricky species. 

Santa Marta Blossomcrown

A Louisiana Waterthrush spent some time on the road in front of us as we walked down the road from here, and a Santa Marta Tapaculo was extremely confiding here as well. We also saw commoner species such as Pale-breasted Thrush, Bicoloured Wren and Santa Marta Brushfinch before making another stab at seeing Rusty-breasted Pitta. 

Rusty-breasted Antpitta

This time we well and truly nailed it with calling birds seen on both sides of the road at the dame spot. Wow! There was also Tropical Pewee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Grey-lined Hawk, American Redstart, Rufous-capped Warbler and the peculiar Santa Marta race of Bay-headed Tanager. 

White-chinned Sapphire

We finished our birding this morning closer to Minca with perched Long-billed Starthroat and White-chinned Sapphire, and a Rosy Thrush-Tanager for a couple lucky people. Oh and let’s not forget the pair of day-roosting Black-and-white Owls.  

Black-and-white Owl

We had lunch at the Hotel Minca where Orange-chinned Parakeets, White-vented Plumeleteer and lots of White-necked Jacobins entertained us at the feeders. 

Orange-chinned Parakeet

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Steely-vented Hummingbird

White-necked Jacobin (female)

White-necked Jacobin (male)

From here it was a short drive to the airport and a quick flight back to Bogota and conclusion of a very successful tour.

Santa Marta Mountains

Left at 04:30am and drove up to the top of the mountain on the horrid track that’s more akin to a dry riverbed. Anyway, it took around 90 minutes to reach the top ridge and upon arrival the weather was clear with occasional bouts of low cloud obscuring things for short periods. A Santa Marta Warbler played hard to get initially but a little later we enjoyed point-blank views over breakfast, and we also had nice looks at several Santa Marta Parakeets, some Scaly-naped Parrots perched up close by, incredibly close Santa Marta Brushfinch, the endemic Yellow-crowned Whitestart, a pair of endemic Hermit Wood-Wrens, Streak-capped Spinetail, Santa Marta Toucanet (not yet a full species but a ssp of White-throated Toucanet…), Santa Marta Mountain Tanager, a very brief Brown-rumped Tapaculo, a pair of Scarlet-fronted Parakeets, and a few flyover Red-billed Parrots. 

Santa Marta Parakeet

Santa Marta Brushfinch

Scaly-naped Amazon

Hermit Wood-Wren

Then we headed lower, stopping at a few places to look for Santa Marta Antpitta without any joy. And then the heavens opened  so we headed down to lunch.

Back at the lodge we had a fine meal and waited for the rain to stop, which it did shortly after. The hummer activity in the garden was frenzied and we saw all the same species as yesterday but of particular note was the female White-tailed Starfrontlet perching up on several occasions, at least 2 male Lazuline Sabrewings, and amazingly 3 White-tipped Quetzals found at the front of the lodge. 

White-tailed Starfrontlet

With some of the group opting for an easy afternoon around the lodge the rest of us headed back up the mountain on our antpitta quest. Well, it took a while but in the end we enjoyed fantastic views of a pair of Santa Marta Antpittas ‘doing their thing’ and feeding in a relatively open patch of forest even if the photos don’t do this awesome bird justice. 

Santa Marta Antpitta

We also enjoyed good views of the endemic White-lored Warbler here too. Higher up we surprisingly watched an endemic Brown-rumped Tapaculo feeding on the track right out in the open for a few brief seconds! With a dramatic sunset and awesome scenery we waited until dark before calling in a fantastic Stygian Owl. And that was the end of another great day, just a shame the calling Spectacled Owl didn’t show to everyone after dinner.

Santa Marta Sunset