Wednesday, 7 September 2022

A Two BoP Day

The day started with me finding a Papuan Frogmouth, whilst my group were having an early morning cup of coffee at 4.30am and which obligingly stayed for everyone to see. Shortly after we were walking up the hill, trying for Papuan Boobook without getting any response, so continued to the Lesser Bird-of-Paradise display lek. We spent the next hour and a half from sunrise marvelling at these extraordinary birds displaying in the canopy overhead. I think someone said they were the cream egg bird, which rather accurately describes them but what an exotic-looking bird! 





Lesser Bird-of-Paradise

Their loud call rang through the forest and when you eventually got your bins on one perched high up in the canopy, you could see it puffing its ‘cream egg coloured’ tail out and shaking it, while it splayed its body horizontally and holding its wings out. Wow!  Once satisfied with the views we walked a further 15 minutes along a trail to the display site of King Bird-of-Paradise but nothing was happening here. So we walked around to another tree where, sure enough, the male was actively displaying in the canopy and after a little patience we were rewarded with great views of this brilliant red and white bird! In fact, there may have been more than one male as this supersonic vision of brilliant red and white zoomed around the canopy chasing after the females and sometimes it seemed it was everywhere at once. A picnic breakfast followed, during which a Rusty Mouse-Warbler began calling and the battle began! I don’t know how this bird could move around the forest without any of us seeing it, but it was like a ghost. When I first played the call it flew straight in at us, perching for a nanosecond about 3 feet right in front of us and that was it. Over the next maybe 45 minutes we tried various methods, moving position, placing the speaker way off in the forest but none of it did any good. So we eventually gave up and began walking slowly back towards the lodge, seeing barely anything save a Grey Crow. But boy it was hot here today and the forest was incredibly dry which might indicate why we didn’t have much activity. So it was a relief to get back to the lodge for lunch and a rest. 

 

However, William and I decided to walk up the trail and spend a bit of time at the canopy tower – what a good move this was. No sooner had we started out than a Blyth’s Hornbill flew over and a pair of Long-billed Honeyeaters appeared not too far away from us. At the tower we enjoyed the view over the treetops and had a constant stream of birds appearing. We began with the first of several Black-browed Trillers, followed by Mimic HoneyeaterStreak-headed Honeyeater, a flock of Metallic Starlingsfeeding on some berried below us, another Blyth’s Hornbill flying past, Black ButcherbirdEclectus Parrot, a cracking Sulphur-crested Cockatoo perched nearby, Pale-billed Sicklebill appeared briefly, 3 Salvadori’s Fig-Parrots flying overhead and a Red-cheeked Parrot. But by now it was nearly time to depart for the afternoon session so we walked back to the lodge and saw a group of Crimson Finches and Streak-headed Mannikin that Royke had found in the field behind the lodge. 

 

The afternoon session was pretty productive as we birded an open area in search of Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, which was eventually scoped perched up in a distant tree next to our first Meyer’s Friarbird. We also saw its amazing bower with an ‘entrance path’ of cut grass stems about 15 feet long leading up to the bower! Incredible! In fact, this area was very busy as we also saw a superb Ivory-billed CoucalWhite-breasted CuckooshrikeOrange-bellied Fruit-Dove, a pair of Shining Flycatchers and some other common species.


Orange-bellied Fruit Dove

Leaving here we drove to another patch of forest and walked inside to the river where we searched for Shovel-billed Kingfisher, but only managed to hear one along with a Hook-billed Kingfisher




Marbled Frogmouth

However, I did manage to call in a fantastic Marbled Frogmouth that sat rather insolently overhead, totally ignoring the spotlight and camera clicks! So not a bad day at all.



Tuesday, 6 September 2022

West Papua - Our First BoP Action!

We were off on a very short drive to the Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise site this morning and following a 100m walk inside the forest were in position before sunrise. The birds preferred display site was a vertical bare branch some 30m above the forest floor and around 15 minutes after sunrise the male flew in and began calling. What an extraordinary-looking bird! Over the next 90 minutes we had repeated views as he stayed for 5-10 minutes before flying off, only to return a few minutes later. A couple of times we were treated to the full-on courtship display as he circled his branch, up and down whilst keeping his body horizontal. Amazing! 






Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise

Lowland Peltops took advantage every time he flew off to use his branch as a song post and was an amazing looking bird in its own right. Amazingly a Pale-billed Sicklebill flew in once and lingered for a minute before flying off. 



Lowland Peltops


Pale-billed Sicklebill

We also saw a party of Papuan Babblers passing close by and a White-bellied Thicket Fantail gave the usual brief looks. The clearing behind us then took centre stage with Golden MonarchBlack ButcherbirdBoyer’s CuckooshrikeDouble-eyed Fig-ParrotOrange-bellied Fruit-Dove and Black-billed (Bar-tailed) Cuckoo-Dove being seen.  

 

Our next stop was a nearby bridge which offered a pretty decent vantage point over the forest and we saw Large-billed GerygoneRainbow Bee-eaterBlack SunbirdRed-capped FlowerpeckerStreak-headed Honeyeater, flyby Coconut LorikeetPapuan Spinetail, and a superb Long-tailed Honey-Buzzard


Long-tailed Honey Buzzard

With the temperature soaring to ridiculous levels we took a trail down along the stream that didn’t go very far but offered us some shade and we nailed Amboyna Cuckoo-Dove and an Arafura (Little) Shrike-Thrush

 

I must admit it was something of a relief to get in an air-conditioned car and drive back to the lodge for a 3 hour siesta. In the afternoon we drove back to the same area as this morning and walked along the road picking up Black-capped LoryStreak-headed Mannikin, scoped a pair of Orange-bellied Fruit-Doves, saw more Coconut Lorikeets, and had another male Twelve-wired BoP. We ended the day at KM6 with Yellow-faced Myna and a Black-billed Coucal teed up nicely in the scope, but unfortunately only a couple people saw a Papuan Nightjar flyby.


West Papua - Nimbokrang

Our flight left just after midnight and landed at 07:20 into Jayapura, in the ornithological wonderland of West Papua. After meeting up with our local guide, Royke Mananta and his crew, we drove to a nearby hotel for some much-needed breakfast. Afterwards we paid a visit to some nearby grasslands where our first introduction to the delights of this awesome island produced in just a few minutes: Papuan HarrierPygmy EagleWhistling & Brahminy Kite and a flock of Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. We followed this up with Brown QuailBrush CuckooWillie WagtailBright-headed CisticolaBuff-banded RailTree MartinGrand MannikinOriental DollarbirdNew Guinea Friarbird and eventually a few Hooded Mannikin

 

Then we set out on the two hour drive to our lodge at Nimbokrang. Upon arrival we had lunch before walking up the hill behind the lodge. We hadn’t gone far when a Rufous-bellied Kookaburra was scoped and allowed some very decent photo opportunities. A few Moustached Treeswifts were perched on nearby telegraph wires and some Yellow-faced Mynas flew over. The muddy trail slowly wound its way uphill and along the next section we did battle with White-bellied Thicket Fantail, on a couple of occasions just getting the briefest of glimpses. At the first ridge we scoped a pair of Grey Crows before heading into the Lesser Bird-of-Paradise  ‘hide’. Several males were calling upon arrival but none were visible for ages and then only briefly which was very frustrating but most people managed some sort of view. 

 

Leaving here rather reluctantly when any chance of BoP action had gone we walked down to the canopy tower and staked this area out seeing several Zoe’s Imperial-PigeonsEclectus Parrot perched below us, a weirdly-stunning Pesquet’s Parrot perched at eye-level not too far away, a flyby Sulphur-crested Cockatoo and some Metallic Starlings to round off our first day in West Papua.

Jakarta Bay Boat Trip

We had a boat trip out into Jakarta Bay this morning aimed at seeing Christmas Island Frigatebird but it turned out to be so much more than that. We began from our ‘downtown’ starting position by sailing out of the channel towards the bay and within ten minutes had our first of over 20 Milky Storks to be seen today. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International due to a rapid decline in its stronghold of Sumatra caused by intense hunting pressure at its nesting colonies, as well as more general human disturbance and the old nutshell of reclamation of its favourite coastal habitat for feeding. It’s a very sad situation and difficult to see a positive outcome here. It was a real privilege to see so many right on the edge of the huge metropolis of Jakarta, although it wasn’t the most salubrious of settings! 





We saw over 20 Milky Storks this morning...

Another highlight was seeing so many Sunda Teal, initially just flybys, but then out in the bay on some old, abandoned ships we saw many and apparently they nest in these old ships! We also saw a few Cerulean Kingfishers but again, mainly flybys, as well as Pied TrillerBar-winged Prinia and eventually the ultimate prize of a Javan Coucal perched up and showing nicely, albeit a little distantly.



Sunda Teal

There were many other birds seen including House Swift, Javan Pond Heron, Black-backed Swamphen, Oriental Darter, Gull-billed Tern, White-breasted Waterhen, Sacred Kingfisher, Javan Myna, Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Pacific Swallow, Pink-necked Green-Pigeon, Red-breasted Parakeet, Racket-tailed Treepie, Little Black Cormorant, a couple of Pied Stilts and a close Javan Plover. Nice!



Javan Plover

Javan Pond Heron

More Milky Storks were seen

Many Purple Herons were seen this morning

Then we headed out into Jakarta Bay seeing White-bellied Sea Eagle and Whiskered Tern, before reaching some poles where flocks of Great Crested and Black-naped Terns were roosting, with a couple of Common Terns



Great Crested Tern

And then we came across several roosting groups of frigatebirds, most of which turned out to be Christmas Island Frigatebirds and we were treated to outstanding close views of 59 of them, plus 3 Lesser Frigatebirds and a single Greater Frigatebird. Awesome! Once we were satisfied with the views we headed back to the mainland seeing Pied Imperial-Pigeon and a Pacific Reef Egret to round off a great boat trip.





Christmas Island Frigatebirds

Greater Frigatebird

Boas took us for lunch and coffee before we headed to the mangroves in the heat of the early afternoon. This turned out to be a good move as we saw Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker next to the car park, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Malaysan Pied Fantail, another Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Indonesian (Brown) Honeyeater, Striated Swallow, a single Little Cormorant in a roost of Little Black Cormorants, and eventually a pair of Cerulean Kingfishers perched.



Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker

It had been a great day but we were all tired by now and with a midnight flight to West Papua we decided to head to a nearby hotel for a rest and a refreshing shower before heading to the domestic terminal and the next stage of our adventure. Thanks Boas for being an excellent and very knowledgeable guide.

Sunday, 4 September 2022

Gunung Gede

This was our ‘big’ day as we left the hotel at 3.30am and drove to the parking area for the hike up into the forested slopes of Gunung Gede. Upon arrival we quickly nailed Sunda Scops Owl, an adult and a juvenile being found very easily thanks to Boas’ night-time thermal imaging camera – no need for tape-playing or wafting a spotlight around! 


Sunda Scoops Owl


And then the walk began in earnest as the trail took us steadily upward on an uneven path made from rocks. It was hard going on our feet and knees and we took it very slowly, getting surprisingly sweaty rather quickly despite the cool early morning air. After about half an hour the same thermal-imaging camera paid dividends when a Javan Frogmouth was found perched right out in the open on a hanging vine not far from the trail. Nice! 


Javan Frogmouth


We yomped a bit from here in order to get to the lowest altitude you can find Javan Scops Owl, but we unfortunately dipped despite a bird coming right in to the tape and calling loudly from extremely close distance but it still managed to elude us. And then we walked up to the first shelter opposite a small lake where we had our breakfast and some hot coffee. This site turned up very obliging Eye-browed Wren-Babbler and Pygmy Cupwing, as well as our first of many Javan Whistling-Thrushes in what was a very productive session. 


Not too far away we had a confiding Lesser Shortwing right beside the path that gave repeated views, and we also saw Mountain Tailorbird, a flock of Sunda Minivets, our first Javan Fulvetta, a flock of skulking Crescent-chested Babblers and a Sunda Warbler singing its heart out from 5 feet away at eye-level. The walk continued ever upwards, steep in some parts and easier in others, and we soon added Fire-tufted Barbet to our list, saw a nice Mountain Leaf Warbler and a pair of Javan Heleia as well. 






This fine wee beastie is a Sunda Warbler


At the trail intersection, we walked towards the waterfall with a Javan Hawk-Eagle soaring high overhead, as well as a fine Indigo Flycatcher, a pair of close Trilling Shrike-Babblers, and a pair of Sunda Forktails. After another cup of coffee and a rest below the falls the really hard walk began as we headed up to the second shelter where we were meeting our porter and our lunch! 



Indigo Flycatcher

Record shot of Javan Hawk-Eagle - wasn't expecting to see this here!



Trilling Shrike-Babbler


Boy is it steep from here but we still added a fine Javan Tesia to our list, as well as a close pair of Pied Shrike-Babblers just a few feet away from us and a stonking Rufous-tailed Fantail. Lunch was enlivened by Javan Shortwing and an inquisitive Javan Whistling-Thrush before making our decent and failing miserably to find Javan Trogon. 




The dull, overcast conditions caused havoc with my camera and trying to get a decent true colour of Javan Whistling-Thrush!

A Sunda Cuckoo and Sunda Blue Robin right at the death ended proceedings. The cold beers at the restaurant never tasted so good this evening!