EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE: DAY 11 PUERTO MADRYN

This was truly an epic day ashore as we docked in Puerto Madryn, Argentina. Once we were allowed to walk off the ship, we found it to be a fairly long walk along the pier to our waiting minibus. Along the way we saw Great Grebes and several numerous & very close South American Terns. Our first stop was just along the coast a few minutes away to view a high tide roost of gulls and shorebirds, but not the hoped for (and definitely a long shot) Chubut (White-headed) Steamer-Duck that had been reported a few days ago. We just saw some Crested Ducks, American and Blackish Oystercatchers, Grey-hooded Gulls etc etc. Moving north towards the Valdes Peninsula we made a few quick stops to view Variable Hawk, Chalk-browed and Patagonian Mockingbirds, Southern Martin and Chiguanco Thrush. 

Patagonian Mockingbird

Veering inland slightly we entered steppe country covered in bushes and pulled up beside an isolated house. There were several Elegant Crested Tinamous present and we had nice views of these and a couple more over the next hour. 

Elegant Crested Tinamou

As well as this superb species, one of the non-avian highlights for some in the group was the Lesser Cavy! However, we were here for one special bird – White-throated Cachalote, an Argentinian endemic. 

White-throated Cachalote

It took a while to locate it but with the breeding season over, I think we were extremely fortunate to get the crippling views we did. What a bird! So, moving on we had Rufous Hornero, Burrowing Owl, Harris’s Hawk and other common species before arriving at a lake in Trelew, about an hour south of the port. This was choc full of waterbirds and we thoroughly enjoyed sifting through all the ducks and other goodies present. The main stars for ‘duck’ enthusiasts comprised Black-headed Duck, Lake Duck, Red Shoveller and Yellow-billed Pintail, with many White-tufted and just a couple of Silvery Grebes also in the mix. 

Black-headed Duck

Lake Duck (female)

Lake Duck (male)

All three species of coot were here: White-winged, Red-fronted and Red-gartered Coot, and we saw them all at close quarters. 

Red-fronted Coot

Red-gartered Coot

White-winged Coot

At the far end a few Chilean Flamingo’s were largely ignored in favour of Picui Ground-Dove, Great Kiskadee, Shiny Cowbird and a very confiding Southern Lapwing!

White-tufted Grebe

Southern Lapwing

Leaving here we drove even further south and inland, into the wild and remote Patagonian Steppes, passing Lesser Rheas along the roadside. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to nail Carbonated Sierra-Finch – yet another Argentinian endemic. But we did! 

Carbonated Sierra-Finch

Our next major target was at a seemingly random place amidst this vast landscape where, despite the strong wind, we located a party of the endemic Rusty-backed Monjita. A Chocolate-vented Tyrant was also found and scoped. After the disappointment of dipping on this mega at Punta Arenas, this was a particularly thrilling encounter. So with better views of the monjita for everyone we continued to another spot for Mourning Sierra-Finch before hitting the coast for a last throw of the Chubut dice. 

Patagonian Canastero

A walk along a sandy cliff top path to view a beach yielded nothing, but the walk back gave us the endemic Patagonian Canastero and this bird proved to be rather inquisitive! A few Royal Terns also flew by before we reached the minibus. Amazingly, Dan picked up a pair of steamer-ducks about a mile further along the beach, so with inconclusive views we pushed our luck (and time) to drive around and get closer. 

Chubut (White-headed) Steamer-Duck

With Flying Steamer-Duck also a possibility even this far north, we just had to be sure and sure enough the views were much better and we could high-five each other with our lifer Chubut (White-headed) Steamer-Duck. What a result! And all that was left was to hightail it back to the ship and go get some food and coffee, despite having the best packed lunch of the trip so far!

 

As we walked along the pier to the ship, some Cayenne Terns flew over. Now, depending on your taxonomy (or religion as I sometimes say!) this is either a new species for you or just a race of Cabot’s Tern (and we had these as well) and according to the IOC is a sister species to Elegant Tern and not Sandwich Tern. So there you go! Anyway, as we sailed away from Puerto Madryn we all met at the front of the ship to see what was about. You are actually in a vast bay and sheltered from northerly and southerly winds, so this may have been why we had Pomarine, Long-tailed and Arctic Skuas here! Sailing further out we were surrounded by many Sooty and Great Shearwaters, as well as a surprising number of Manx Shearwaters. Oh and of course there were the usual Black-browed Albatrosses present as well. Nice!