Saipina Valley to Siberia Cloud Forest

Early this morning we visited the rather picturesque Saipina valley which entailed an hour and a half's drive along a bumpy dirt road. As the road finally dropped down lower we pulled over to look at a couple of Andean Guans, and a little further along at a river crossing a flock of Puna Ibis were feeding in the shallows. 

Saipina Valley

After passing through the village we began walking along the road and had a few very colourful Red-fronted Macaws flying over, as well as Black-capped Warbling-finch, White-tipped Plantcutter, Golden-billed Saltator and Grey-crested Finch amongst others. We then drove a short distance to a lovely canyon with a river running through it, where we discovered a small colony of endemic Cliff Parakeets. We watched them taking nesting material up onto the cliff face and flying down into the bushes to collect more for quite some time. It was a lovely spot with Southern Martin flying around in front of us, Great Kiskadees and a Spotted Sandpiper on the river, and a close Cliff Flycatcher beside the coach. 

Cliff Flycatcher

A distant Blue-tufted Starthroat was scoped before we had a close encounter with a Sooty-fronted Spinetail in the bushes below us. Leaving here we drove back along the dirt road and found a superb Spot-backed Puffbird on some telegraph wires which also allowed a close approach. 

Spot-backed Puffbird

So with things going well this morning we continued in fine form just a few kilometres drive away, as we searched for the endemic Bolivian Earthcreeper on an arid hillside. Sure enough we heard one calling in response to the tape and after a few false starts we had amazing views of a very aggressive individual. In fact we had the bird for half an hour in the low thorn scrub below us and had amazing views. 

Bolivian Earthcreeper

During the course of our search for the earthcreeper we had a little flurry of birds coming in to the pygmy-owl imitation by Miguel comprising Chaco Suiriri, Fuscous Flycatcher, Southern Beardless-tyrannulet, Chivi Vireo, Tropical Parula, and other common species. 

Chaco Suiriri Flycatcher

Chivi Vireo

We also had a pair of Spot-backed Puffbirds perched in a bush giving a much better photo opportunity than the one on the wire from earlier in the day. 

Spot-backed Puffbirds

From here we returned to the hotel for a quick cup of coffee before driving up into the hills to Siberia cloud forest. It turned out to be pretty quiet up here as it was sunny and a blustery wind but we still picked up a number of new birds. 

White-throated Tyrannulet

A White-crested Elaenia got the ball rolling for some of the group, followed by White-throated Tyrannulet, the endemic Bolivian Brush-finch, Mountain Wren, Pearled Treerunner, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Blue-capped Tanager, Pale-legged Warbler and Brown-capped Redstart. A Violet-throated Starfrontlet put in a very quick appearance, and was followed by Purple Honeycreeper and Azara’s Spinetail. 

Mountain Wren

Just then, a Rufous-faced Antpitta began calling and we tried in vain to call it in. But a calling Brown Tinamou made its way onto our life list despite the raucous chatter, leaf crunching and a pair of bright white disco trousers that were probably stone coloured in a former life! But it did take a long, long time to show but the wait was definitely worth it. So after a protracted stake-out we began driving back to the hotel, passing a Mountain Caracara along the way and sat down to a mountain of food for dinner!

Bolivia Day 5

We had to leave the wonderful Los Volcanes this morning and head to Comorapa, but not before a couple of hours birding in the forest. We managed to pick up some good birds such as Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, both Cinnamon-throated and Ocellated Woodcreepers, Moustached Wren and finally getting tickable views of Green-cheeked Parakeet. We then had to get relayed back up to the top of the hill in the jeeps and begin our long journey across some fabulous scenery. We got delayed by an overturned car but picked up a Blue-throated Piping-guan whilst waiting and also had Blue-crowned Trogon along the way as well. During lunch we had White-tipped Swift and Purple-throated Euphonia flying over the restaurant in Samaipata and then birded a totally different habitat as we reached arid hillsides dotted with cacti. New birds were everywhere and we had great fun picking up species such as Masked Gnatcatcher, Southern Scrub Flycatcher, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Glittering-bellied Emerald and Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant. 

Blue-crowned Parakeet

At the next stop a pair of Blue-crowned Parakeets showed well perched on top of a bush, Yellow-browed Tyrant appeared briefly, an Andean Condor soared overhead, the first of many Golden-billed Saltators appeared and our first White-tipped Plantcutter was scoped, although we’d get much better views a little later in the afternoon. 

Golden-billed Saltator

We finished along a quiet lane with a scrub-covered hillside above us and scored with some more great birds. Stunning Blue-and-yellow Tanagers flew around, but we were more interested in White-fronted Woodpecker, stunning Ultramarine Grosbeaks, and cute little Ringed Warbling-finches. 

White-fronted Woodpecker

A Variable (Epaulet) Oriole also posed nicely, Small-billed Elaenia and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper also appeared and a Hepatic Tanager was also seen. The undoubted highlight of the day was the pair of Red-fronted Macaws flying overhead calling in the beautiful early evening sunshine. 

Red-fronted Macaw

Crowned Slaty-flycatcher

White-tipped Plantcutter

We ended the day with a Crowned Slaty-flycatcher posing nicely on telegraph wires, a stunning male White-tipped Plantcutter and Stripe-crowned Spinetail. 

Bolivia - Los Volcanes

A rather slow morning’s birding along the trails began with a Chestnut-tipped Toucanet near the lodge, followed by very brief views of Amethyst Woodstar. As we entered the trails it began to rain but this didn’t deter us and we had Black-goggled Tanager, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Tropical Pewee, brief Yungas Manakin, Masked Trogon and Plain Antvireo. A pair of Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaners were feeding along the river and a Channel-billed Toucan called from the treetops. As we slowly headed back a White-backed Fire-eye gave outstanding views, and Ochre-faced Spinetail was typically elusive and Streaked Xenops and was also seen. 

Masked Trogon

Over lunchtime and during heavy rain we had a flock in a big tree across the river which held a pair of lovely Blue-browed Tanagers, Yellow-olive and Pale-edged Flycatchers, Rough-legged Tyrannulet and White-winged Becard along with some commoner species. The tree outside our rooms held a White-bellied Hummingbird and a probable Sapphire-spangled Emerald as well. With dark clouds overhead it wasn’t long before the rain came back after a short break, so in the meadow we had a Masked Yellowthroat, a flock of Hooded Siskins and a Giant Cowbird. 

Los Volcanes

Walking along the dirt road it was very frustrating as we had to take shelter from several heavier than normal downpours but we still managed Squirrel Cuckoo, White-necked Thrush, Two-banded Warbler, and Swainson’s Thrush. 

White-backed Fire-eye

So by now we had had enough and walked back to the lodge and sure enough the weather cleared up! So after a bit of phaffing we decided to return to this morning’s trails – a brilliant move as it turned out. First of all a startlingly bright crimson White-winged Tanager was scoped at the top of a tree and then a random piece of good fortune saw everyone get Grey Tinamou onto their lists! It was quite funny really, as whilst the others were struggling with a manakin I walked around the next bend in the trail and BANG!! there was the tinamou. John was nearby so i motioned to him to come over and we followed it along the trail, and the stupid bird didn't have the gumption to run off into the forest. So I raced back and got everybody else who then legged it along the trail in hot pursuit of one of the dumbest birds on the planet. Amazingly, they all caught up with the bird which had criss-crossed several trails and didn't stray off into the forest. So I took the short cut back to the lodge and not only bumped into the same individual or another Grey Tinamou but also had Brown Tinamou as well. Not too shabby huh! 

Bolivia - Day 3

Ok been without wifi for a few days so can post a few things now.....

Another 4.30am breakfast and drive back to Santa Cruz airport this morning, but we weren’t flying. Instead we patrolled the surrounding area from the coach in search of Red-winged Tinamou, which sometimes feeds out in the open along the approach road. After a few minutes we picked up a bird feeding at the edge of some tall grass and on closer inspection it turned out to be a Darwin’s Nothura, a most unexpected bonus! 

Darwin's Nothura

Darwin's Nothura

In fact we found another couple in the same area as well, as we continued our tinamou search. With nothing much happening we decided to head out into the vast expanse of grassland, and this proved to be a very good move as a number of good birds were discovered. A Great Pampa-finch was perched up in a spindly bush despite the near gale-force winds, Upland Sandpiper, Nacunda Nighthawk, Buff-necked Ibis, White-tailed Hawk and Red-breasted Blackbird also put in an appearance as well. Eventually, after a longish walk across the grassland we had several flight views of at least 4 Red-winged Tinamous before leaving and driving to the Botanical Gardens. 

Three-toed Sloth

Upon arrival a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth was found walking across a flower bed and we had the most amazing views, but it was only when it began climbing a nearby tree did we realise it was carrying a baby which was clinging to its belly! At the lake we saw Anhinga, Amazon Kingfisher, Green-backed Heron and Black-crowned Night-heron. Whist nearby, Red-crested Finch, Crested Oropendola, Variegated Flycatcher, Black-backed Grosbeak and Picui Ground-dove were found. The trail then took us into some decent gallery forest and then more drier thorn scrub where we finally found a Bolivian Slaty-Antshrike that performed very well for several minutes at point-blank range. A nearby Plain Tyrannulet was less appealing and a Fawn-breasted Wren only slightly better! 

Bolivia Slaty-Antshrike

The walk out produced Red-crested Cardinal, Creamy-bellied Thrush and the rather incongruous sighting of a Thrush-like Wren feeding a young Shiny Cowbird in its nest. From here we drove towards our next base at Los Volcanes, stopping en-route for some cold drinks and to eat our picnic lunch. But I don’t think anything could have prepared us for the amazing view as we approached the turn off to the lodge. 

Los Volcanes

Huge sandstone pillars surrounded a small grassy area far below us in the valley where we could just see the lodge – such an impressive sight. So we loaded our luggage into two jeeps and set off walking down the very steep dirt track, leaving our coach behind and birded the first section of hillside. It was admittedly quiet but we picked up Mitred Parakeet, Slaty Elaenia, Swainson’s Thrush, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Two-banded Warbler and Plush-crested Jay. Once down at the lodge we had some time to take in the scenery and enjoyed a superb Military Macaw flying around us, as well as a huge Andean Condor soaring over majestically. 

Toco Toucan

Black-chested Buzzard-eagle

A few Blue-fronted Parrots posed nicely for us in the treetops, a group of at least 8 Toco Toucans moved through the trees nearby, several Black-chested Buzzard-eagles soared around the cliffs and were mobbed at one point by a Cliff Flycatcher. A little later a White-tipped Swift flew over, as did a King Vulture to end the day nicely….....  

Rufescent Screech-owl

Well until a Rufescent Scops-owl was called in and landed right in front of us after our excellent pizza dinner!