Arizona Day 7: Hunter Canyon to Portal

Today we were heading to Portal in the Chiricahua Mountains, but not before calling in to Hunter Canyon where a Rufous-capped Warbler had been reported. It was a bit tricky to find this place as its not signposted off the main road out of Sierra Vista but we got there eventually and then began walking up the trail. It was quite a rough trail and took a while to reach the trees where the bird had been reported the day before. We were really feeling the altitude this morning for some reason but it was just around 6,000 feet so not too high but we were battling a high wind and uneven and in places steep trail. Well, within a few minutes the Rufous-capped Warbler appeared in the creek below us and began singing and what a beautiful vision of red, yellow and olive it was. No photos unfortunately but just go look in the Sibley Guide to see what a cracker it is. Not a lifer, as I’ve seen one in Texas but a really cool bird. The same spot also had another Buff-breasted Flycatcher, as well as Cassin’s Finch, Cassin’s Vireo, Greater Pewee, Dusky Flycatcher, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Virginia’s, Black-throated Grey and Townsend’s Warblers and other common Sky Island goodies.

Buff-breasted Flycatcher

So that was us done here and we walked back to the car, seeing a few Bell’s Vireos along the way. From here we headed to Portal, a journey of a couple of hours and one thing I noticed was the wind seemed to be picking up with gale force gusts once we reached the open plains. I screeched to a halt at one point as some movement along the fence adjacent to the road looked interesting. There’s absolutely no traffic here so a quick turnaround and we were looking at a bunch of Lark Buntings – a bird I haven’t seen for many years. A little further on we pulled in to look at one of those Historical Markers that are dotted around the country – this one marked the place of Geronimo’s surrender.

Anyway, we drove on to Portal, checked in to our cabins behind the café, ate lunch and then had to drive some 20 miles to fill up with gas. Along the way a few White-throated Swifts flew over but we were soon back in Portal and despite the wind headed up the road to check out the area. We stopped at Paradise and then up to Barfoot Park, which is just under something like 10,000 feet but there was a distinct lack of Mexican Chickadees (a bird we were fated not to find) although there was a dearth of any kind of bird due to the foul weather apart from a few Violet-green Swallows.

So on returning to the cabins we had dinner and then walked around after dark, seeing a Great Horned Owl perched at the top of a large tree. A drive up the road resulted in two different Ringtails (also known as Ring-tailed Cat), a member of the raccoon family, a Striped Skunk, and a cute Gray Fox. But no owls were calling so we called it a day and returned to the cabins.

Arizona Day 6: Ramsey Canyon

So today was the day we went to Ramsey Canyon and our best shot at Elegant Trogon. This site isn’t open to visitors until 8am so we drove around the lower roads through a small housing area (rather surreptitiously I have to say) mainly to fill in some time but also to see if there was anything about. Carpets of Lark Sparrows and some Chipping Sparrows were feeding on the lawns in people’s gardens and a pair of Western Kingbirds were calling from the telegraph wires as well but nothing spectacular was on offer. However, as we rounded a corner a pair of Greater Roadrunners appeared and one of them ran in front of our car, whilst the other one ran into a field next to us. I managed some decent photos (at last) as one bird paused his ‘run’ and didn’t seem to know what to do. So he ran up a lone tree in the middle of the field and looked rather lost before re-joining his mate. This was probably the closest and most prolonged view of this cool bird I’ve ever had and a nice way to start what would be a great day’s birding.

Greater Roadrunner

Then we drove up to the entrance gate and joined a small queue waiting to get in. We’d heard that there was limited parking so wanted to make sure of our spot and after a few minutes the gates opened actually around 20 minutes early and we drove in. Having already got our ticket back at Sonoita Creek a few days ago we skipped the delights of the tempting retail outlet and began walking. The path is really easy, well maintained and not steep at all – in fact a joy to be here. We hadn’t walked long before an Elegant Trogon began calling and we were quickly at the right spot trying to see it. It was calling up the densely forested hillside above us and we spent a while trying to locate it without any luck. 

Really poor photos of Elegant Trogon

Fortunately it began to move and we eventually tracked it down when it somehow began calling behind us, so we crossed the tiny stream and had decent if not that close looks across a grassy clearing. Luckily it then flew right at us and landed high overhead, although rubbish for photos it was a great relief to finally nail this bird. Oh yes baby! Apparently you are not allowed to walk off the trails and we got 'told off' by some dude who thought he was Wyatt Earp i'd imagine...!

After our good fortune we continued walking higher and left the stream with its huge trees for the steeper trail and headed toward where a Tufted Flycatcher had been reported. It was much steeper and the day was warming up, and to be honest this bird wasn’t a lifer for any of us so we decided on the softer option of birding the lower slopes. A good move as it turned out as we found the stream area to be very active with our first Dusky Flycatcher showing quite well, along with Hepatic Tanager, Audubon’s, Black-throated Grey, Townsend’s and Red-faced Warblers all appearing. 

Acorn Woodpecker

Audubon's Warbler

American Robin

Both Greater Pewee and Buff-breasted Flycatcher were seen on several occasions and seemingly commoner and more easy to see here than other canyons we had visited. Or maybe it was the fact there was no wind today. Anyway we checked out some side trails for a reported Flame-coloured Tanager but only managed to find Bushtit, American Robin, Hermit Thrush and other common species. That was until a Mountain Pygmy Owl began calling and after a little search we got really lucky with excellent close views as it stared angrily back at us from a nearby conifer. Wow! This species is split by the IOC and different to Northern Pygmy Owl i've seen in California - so a key bird to get in SE Arizona.

Mountain Pygmy Owl

With the lure of a well stacked shop we headed down the trail, but our luck was in when our one and only Hermit Warbler was seen at the top of a nearby tree - thanks to the couple of bird photographers that put us on to it.

Hermit Warbler

So we returned to Sierra Vista for lunch before heading to Tombstone. 

Tombstone

Now I am culturally shallow but it was too good an opportunity to resist and it was pretty cool to visit the O.K Corral and Boot Hill, oh and to have a beer in a saloon. Yeehaaa!

 

Western Screech Owl

Leaving here we drove to San Pedro House, despite my SatNav trying to send us in the wrong direction and some old fashioned map reading got us to the right spot. My intention was to stay until dark and try and call in a Western Screech-Owl, but luck was really on our side today as there was already a bunch of other birders here scoping one of these beauties at a day roost high up in a big tree. The feeders here were alive with common birds, but also Green-tailed Towhee, Pyrrhuloxia and Curve-billed Thrasher. 

Green-tailed Towhee

A walk along the trails revealed yet another Rufous-winged Sparrow, as well as many Black-throated Sparrows but on returning to the feeders we saw our first Common Ground Dove and Western Tanagers of the trip. 

Rufous-winged Sparrow

Black-throated Sparrow

And with the sun dipping towards the horizon we returned to the motel.

Arizona Day 5: Miller Canyon

The great thing about being based at Sierra Vista is that all of the birding sites are pretty close and within a 30 minute drive of motel. And one of our major target birds we are keen to nail straight away is Spotted Owl. So we drive just 20 minutes or so to the turn off to Miller Canyon and drive up a dirt track to the end of the road. It seems that most people tick off this owl here and with a world population of just 15,000 individuals and a declining western USA population this is an

important bird to find. 

Mexican Spotted Owl

The birds in SE Arizona are of the southern race S. o. lucida race known as Mexican Spotted Owl and a potential split. I must admit I’ve seen one before in California, so this was just an ‘insurance’ tick for me but a lifer for everyone else. So we enter Beatty’s Guest Ranch where Tom Beatty snr gives us directions to the usual roosting sites, although the high winds are a potential problem as the birds tends to move into denser cover in these conditions. So we hike up the canyon, which is quite steep but the rocky trail eventually levels out and we reach the first owl spot after about a mile’s walk. Well there’s nothing here except some droppings showing where the birds roost was, so we continue walking upwards to the next spot. Here too we draw a blank until Tom Beatty Snr appears and asks if we’ve seen the owl. Apparently we’ve walked right past it and drop back down the trail where sure enough there’s the owl, perched in a reasonably leafless tree right beside the track! How the heck did we miss that? To be fair we were looking in the denser trees away from the trail and not right on the trail and another couple of British birders have also walked past it, so it wasn’t just us!! But what a bird and we soak up every detail as it lounges on an exposed branch.

Painted Redstart

With that done we hike higher but the wind isn’t making it easy yet we enjoy nice looks at the usual Sky Island species such as Painted Redstart, Red-faced Warbler and Plumbeous Vireo etc. Some roving flocks hold several Townsend’s, Black-throated Grey and a skulking Virginia’s Warbler, as well as Hepatic Tanager. 

Arizona Woodpecker

A fine Arizona Woodpecker shows well and is only our second sighting of the trip and is the last bird seen before we decide to walk back down the trail. A White-nosed Coati is a surprising sighting, and there’s also Canyon Wren, Cordilleran Flycatcher, and two lifers eventually appear – Greater Pewee and Buff-breasted Flycatcher. 

White-nosed Coati

Once we get back to the ranch we take a look at the feeders and take a seat and wait. Several Magnificent Hummingbirds are joined by the common Broad-billed Hummer, and after a while we see Broad-tailed & Black-chinned Hummers, then an Anna’s appears, followed by my lifer Rufous Hummingbird. Sadly we are too early for White-eared Hummer so leave and head over to Ash Canyon and yet more feeders, seeing Rock Wren along the way.

Magnificent Hummingbird

Broad-billed Hummingbird

Broad-tailed Hummingbird

Rufous Hummingbird

Some people do not like the idea of ticking birds off at feeding stations but I’ve got no problem at all with it. It’s no difference to having a bird table I your garden is it? And with the lure of a Lucifer Hummingbird on offer we are certainly ‘up for it’. 

Lucifer Hummingbird

Once we find the right place, we take a seat and within 10 minutes the bird flies in and begins to feed – a cracking male Lucifer Hummingbird. Wow! It isn’t here long and is soon just a memory so we move to the other seating area overlooking a number of bird tables and feeding apparatus. Here we enjoy Scott’s Orioles, Bushtit, more commoner hummers, Mexican Jays, Acorn Woodpecker, Black-headed Grosbeak, Bewick’s Wren and other common species. It’s a lovely way to while away an hour or so in the lovely sunshine, and we also see a female Lucifer Hummer as well as the male again. With all targets met we decide to head back to Sierra Vista for an early finish.

Arizona Day 4: Pilgrimage to Patagonia

Having a SatNav really helps and we found our way to Patagonia Lake State Park via a series of ‘back roads’ early this morning. Oh we had another cracking breakfast in a diner close to the motel although having to choose between 4 different types of bread and which one of a million ways to have my eggs was a little taxing so early in the day..!! Anyway, upon arrival we paid of entrance fee and parked at the far end of the camping area right a the start of the well-signposted Birding Trail. Our main target was the rare Black-capped Gnatcatcher that had been reported here for several days, but the only directions we had was that the bird about halfway along the trail……… Mmmm….

So we followed the path, scanning the lake where our first Spotted Sandpiper and Double-crested Cormorants were scoped, a Common Yellowthroat showed briefly and there was a bunch of other common stuff I don’t really recall. The first patch of tall mesquite held a Cassin’s Vireo, which showed up just as we were watching a Warbling Vireo. There was also Wilson’s and Yellow Warblers, as well as Song, Lincoln’s and some White-crowned Sparrows here. The path dropped down to the lakeside where several Summer Tanagers and Vermilion Flycatchers were displaying and then went across an open area and into another tall patch of Mesquite. It was here that I found the Black-capped Gnatcatcher and spent several enjoyable minutes watching it feed above us. I did spot a Macgillivray’s Warbler skulking under a bush on the hillside behind us just at the moment that the gnatcatcher appeared but focussed on the tiny grey and black sprite bobbing about the canopy right next to us. Good views of Lucy’s Warbler, Verdin and Bell’s Vireo at the same spot were also much appreciated.

The rare Black-capped Gnatcatcher - note the white undertail.

We did walk out onto the hillside to look for the warbler but failed relocate it, although the gnatcatcher gave further views, this time incredibly close and almost too close to focus our bins and cameras on. So what a result and with the day warming up we decided to return to the car. 

Sora

Along the way we had a nice close Sora, some Mexican Ducks, Cinnamon and Blue-winged Teal, and a weird-looking Antelope Jackrabbit. Driving out of the park we spotted a Grey Hawk perched in a bare tree.

From here we headed the short distance to Patagonia and made the pilgrimage to the Paton Centre for Hummingbirds where we hoped to see the reported Violet-crowned Hummingbird, here at its only known stakeout in the U.S. Well we hadn’t sat down in the seating area for more than 5 minutes before a fine male appeared and began feeding at one of the red hummer feeders set out in a nearby tree. We saw him a couple more times during our stay and he sure was a stunner.

Violet-crowned Hummingbird.

From the seating area you can watch a variety of feeders, bird tables, some brush piles and open grass where we were astounded by the sheer numbers of birds. The hummer feeders were also attracting Anna’s and Black-chinned Hummingbirds as well. Our first Abert’s Towhee was rather cool skulking around a pile of branches laid out on the floor, and there were also Inca Doves, Lark Sparrows and a bunch of Gambel’s Quails feeding on some seed on the floor . 

Lark Sparrow

Gambel's Quail

On the other feeders flocks of Pine Siskins, House Finches, Black-headed Grosbeak and even a few Lazuli Buntings were present, with also Acorn Woodpecker and a Curve-billed Thrasher joining in the fun. Surrounding trees held Audubon’s Warbler, Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Western Kingbird and others but after an hour or so we needed food and retired to the nearby Gathering Grounds Restaurant. The sleepy hamlet of Patagonia has a lovely, quaint old town feel about it and the food was outstanding.

Pine Siskins

Black-headed Grosbeak

Lazuli Bunting

Acorn Woodpecker

Curve-billed Thrasher

Afterwards we drove just a few minutes away to Sonoita Creek Preserve, checked in and walked along the trails, finding another male Violet-crowned Hummer on their feeders. Along the creek we hoped to find a reported Thick-billed Kingbird but the wind was picking up and I wasn’t that confident. A ‘needle in a haystack’ sprang to mind but fortunately I picked up the call and sure enough there it was, perched high up in a huge bare tree after only a 20 minute walk along the open trail. We had great views in the scope and I was mightily relieved, but as luck would have it the bird flew towards us and perched right overhead as we were sitting in the shade on a well positioned bench. 

Thick-billed Kingbird - another SE Arizona speciality.

The only other birds of note were Green-tailed Towhee and Dark-eyed Junco so we headed out, calling back in at the Paton’s for one final look. With nothing new on offer our drive took us maybe an hour away across rolling grasslands to the modern town of Sierra Vista, which is nestled at the base of the Huachuca Mountains where we are booked in at the Hampton Inn for 3 nights.