Er La Shan - The Big Hike....

This was the day of the big hike up the mountain for Tibetan Sandgrouse and we set off early from the hotel, but still had time for a spot of breakfast in a nearby restaurant first. Up at the pass we were soon off and heading upwards amidst a winter wonderland landscape of snow covered hills and mountains all around – in fact it had snowed heavily overnight and was even more scenic than when we drove over the pass yesterday. Our acclimatisation had worked well over the past week and everyone did very well on this tough climb, but a nice male Roberovski’s (Tibetan) Rosefinch certainly helped as it perched on a small rock looking down on us – a key species here. There were a few birds around, including our first Plain Mountain-finch, but otherwise much the same as yesterday so up we hiked. It only took a little over 90 minutes to reach the top but it was hard going at times and the layer of snow didn’t really help. But boy the scenery all around was amazing!

Er La Shan. You get the picture.... Snow, mountains, freezing temperature, near-mythical birds...

Once at the top we walked along a plateau until it dropped away onto a lower plateau and began to scan, and fortunately 3 Tibetan Snowcocks scuttled across in front of us and showed very well. We probably spent a couple of hours scanning and searching the favoured area of the Sandgrouse, but the whole place was covered in snow so how could they feed here? Eventually we walked further along the ridge and found an area where there was a very sparse layer of snow, mingled with ‘bare’ areas of soil and short grass. But there was still nothing doing here, until all of a sudden a strange call emanated from the plateau behind us and amazingly a Tibetan Sandgrouse flew right past us and continued on over a shallow hill. Oh yes baby!! 

Our first Tibetan Sandgrouse at around 4850m

The bird I personally wanted more than any other on this tour was finally nailed! We walked in the direction it had flown and relocated it, watching it feed amongst an area of small rocks and worked our way to within a couple hundred yards of it. It seemed quite nervous so we didn’t push it and the views through the scope were stunning. But a little too far for photos. 

Another pair of sandgrouse...

When it flew off back in the direction it had come we headed down and then discovered another pair feeding below us. I managed some nice, albeit distant photos but when they flew I managed this shot.

Tibetan Sandgrouse in flight....

Walking down towards the road we had a flock of Brandt’s Mountain-finches, Robin Accentors and other species, including a confiding Woolly Hare -  and i must say it was a huge relief to finally climb aboard the coach after such a strenuous walk.

We stopped in town for a late noodle lunch before driving the next 200kms of tedious, road work infested craziness….. Not far from our destination of Maduo we watched in amazement as a Wolf attacked a flock of sheep, killing one and maiming another before running across the road in front of us and joining the other three members of his pack. Wow!

Its a Wolf.....!!

Deciding whether to cross the road....

It was quite a bleak, wintry landscape here....

It seemed a good area for mammals as we’d already had Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass) and Tibetan Gazelle as well amidst a more typical Tibetan Plateau scene of wide open horizons and rolling hills. Upland Buzzards were everywhere and a Saker was nice too!

Gonghe to Er La Pass

We left Chaka early doors and drove along the expressway some 120 kms to the town of Gonghe – most of the way it rained! We had a great breakfast of porridge and dumplings (not together!) in a little restaurant before checking out an area just outside of town. Well, we couldn’t find any whitethroats, but were entertained by a Grey-headed Woodpecker and several Eurasian Hoopoes. Then we walked out into the semi-desert area and found a nice wadi where we eventually scored with Mongolian Finch, a bird that we had been looking for ages for over the past 3 afternoons. We also had a pair of Meadow Buntings here, as well as a Ground-tit, whilst nearby a Crested Lark sang from some telegraph wires. Then we checked out the poplars again for any sign of whitethroats without any luck, and had to content ourselves with a Eurasian Wryneck.

Then we set out on the drive to Er La Pass (4500m), reaching here by mid-afternoon, only to find ourselves in the middle of a blizzard. The whole area was covered in a layer of snow, but we still had a nice walk amidst such spectacular scenery you just have to experience to believe. We did find a pair of Guldenstadt’s Redstarts, Brandt’s Mountain-finch for some, and Rufous-necked, White-rumped and Henri’s Snowfinches.

Rufous-necked Snowfinch

The undoubted highlight was this Pallas’s Cat watched for a good half an hour as it hunted across the barren hillside above the road. At one stage it crouched right down and stalked a pika, which it duly caught and devoured – all the while being watched by a very appreciative audience. I must admit to getting the old ‘shaky hand’ syndrome as we watched this mega-rare mammal. 

Pallas's Cat

Whilst watching this amazing creature a pair of Golden Eagles locked talons and tumbled earthwards, only to pull up at the last moment and just after this, a Lammergeier flew over.

We stayed in a run-down, old hotel tonight - and it has apparently been renovated. Lucky us!  But the outside toilet was only for the brave! 

Bring on the Sandgrouse tomorrow.

The Snowcock Hike, Uphill a Long Way....

Returned to the head of the valley we tried yesterday morning and this time the rain stopped (almost) during our field breakfast and we could head up into the mountains on our most scenic and adventurous walk to date. We had just began walking when a Tibetan Grey Shrike was spotted on nearby telegraph wires – what a great start. In fact we found another one further along the path, sharing the fence posts with a couple of Common Cuckoos.

Looks like a long way up the mountain....

Amazing scenery up here.... Worth the effort!

Once we reached the valley, we quickly found our first Przevalski’s Partridges scurrying up the hillside above us and we would see several more during the course of the morning. The first of a couple sightings of Wallcreeper this morning was particularly special for Chris. From the valley floor we hiked high up across a ridge in a circular route from 3200 – 3700m and it was particularly hard going but everyone ‘enjoyed’ it. We got off to a flyer with a pair of Tibetan Partridges seen well and higher up a group of 5 Himalayan Snowcocks flew right over us as they went from one ridge right away across the valley to the other side. We managed to track them down and had very nice scope views as they fed on a steep grassy slope. 

Himalayan Snowcocks

The scenery was magnificent and well worth the effort. We also found Alpine Leaf-warbler, Beautiful Rosefinch, and a Kessler’s Thrush mobbing a perched Northern Goshawk. Once we had returned to the valley floor we spread out and managed flight views of 2 pairs of Daurian Partridges to make it a 4 ‘chicken’ morning.

After a late lunch in Chaka we drove to the desert east of the town and had our best view yet of a Mongolian Lark, but the rain that had been threatening came in and we had a well deserved early finish and a nice rest after our earlier exertions.

How Muddy Can it Get....?

Left the hotel at 5.30am and drove 30kms to the start of our Snowcock walk, however as we ate our packed breakfast the rain that had been threatening came in and we decided it was pointless to make a long hike up a mountain. So instead we drove back past Chaka and on for another 70kms to the start of another trail. This one is usually driveable for 4 kms to the base of the mountains, but as there had been a lot of rain the track had become a thick, glutonous, sticky, slidy, undriveable skislope. 

Gearing up for the muddy walk 4kms to the base of the mountains - great..!

So we had to make the painfully, strength-sapping walk up to the valley where A La Shan Redstart resides. And boy it was a tough walk up as the track was so muddy and slippery, but we made it despite the constant steady drizzle and cool conditions. Once we entered the redstarts favourite, Juniper dotted valley we found ourselves in low cloud and visibility was poor. Am I painting a good picture here..? 

Thick mist in the redstarts favourite valley - but it's out there somewhere

You know I didn’t believe there was any point being here, but was also aware that you never know what will happen. And sure enough as we sheltered from the rain underneath a large tree, Steven our additional local guide called from the gloom that he had found it! Holy cow! We skidded our way down to his position and unbelievably there was a pair of stunning redstarts feeding some 20 metres above us on a grassy slope – still in the low cloud but we didn’t care. Oh boy, you can imagine the elation we all felt and well done Steven. 

The Holy Grail....... A La Shan Redstart

Apart from a nice Pine Bunting we didn’t see another bird up here so headed straight down to the coach.

Try walking on 3 inches of glutinous mud, carrying a scope & tripod for 4 kms......

We drove back towards Chaka, seeing White-throated Dipper & Goosander, and stopped for coffee before walking out into the desert where we found many Asian Short-toed Larks, Isabelline Shrike, Desert Wheatear and another Henderson’s Ground-Jay.

Our last stop in the early evening was just south of Chaka where another walk out into the grassland produced a flyby Mongolian Lark, Tibetan Lark, Tibetan Wagtail & more Twite. Plus another Woolly Hare. 

This is usually a hot, dry, desert-type area but this freaky wet weather is really unpleasant and sitting in a restaurant in a fleece sipping room temperature beer is not what we were expecting....!

Now it Starts to Get Good....!

Waking up to dull, overcast skies and heavy drizzle wasn’t the best start to what turned out to be a superb day. Must admit I was in two minds as to whether I should change our plans and not hike up into the Rubber Mountain, but Tang Jun said we should give it some time and have our packed breakfast near the start of the track. So we did and it continued to rain whilst we ate, and we got out of the coach several times and yes, it was easing and getting brighter. A Rufous-necked Snowfinch raised optimism somewhat, so by the time we drove the last kilometre to the start of the trail and phaffed around it was hardly raining so off we went. The walk up to the base of the hills is probably a couple of kilometres but it took a while as we came across our first Rock Sparrows, Black-winged (Adam’s) Snowfinch, Robin Accentors and a superb Saker. Then we had to start the trek up into the scrub-covered little side valley, and up & up we went. The weather was still a bit miserable and it was chilly – not the best conditions to search for Pink-tailed Finch. 

Pink-tailed Finch... Is it a bunting or a finch...?

This is one of the star birds of any Qinghai tour, as it is now in a family all of its own. So the pressure was on! Anyway, we got to a vantage point where we could scan quite a way and I fired up the ipod – but nothing. And nothing. And nothing. David walked further up and thankfully spotted one coming down the valley in response to the call and a few of us managed to get on it. But somehow it disappeared, so we went up higher and fortunately it reappeared for another brief appearance. What a relief! I think it’s true to say everyone wanted more so we walked right up to the head of the (by now really steep) steep valley and walked over the brow of the hill, admiring the scenery as it would have been rude not to. 

Pink-tailed Finch Valley

You can just see the road in the distance where our coach is parked

The valley over the top held more bushes and Neil spotted one way down below us – another finch that is. We scrambled down and had amazing views of two adults and an immature bird feeding, bunting-like on the ground between the dwarf bushes. The views were awesome and it was a real privilege to be this close to such a mega! However, walking back up the ridiculously steep hillside wasn’t so much fun I can tell you.

Anyway, we hung around at the top for a while and had a female Streaked Rosefinch fly in, and some great looks at the weigoldi Smoky Warblers (really..?) , along with Rufous-breasted Accentors as well. Then we walked down the ridge and followed another valley for a while but didn’t get anything new, although seeing Ground-tits, Blue-fronted Redstarts, Kessler’s Thrushes, White-browed Tit and other commoner birds in such spectacular surroundings was fine!

Robin Accentor

Black-winged Snowfinch

By the time we had walked back down to the bus, finding our first Rosy Pipit along the way, we were ready for lunch and our crew did a fine job in producing such good fayre. 

Lunchtime...

As we were sitting along a stream we noticed that there were many birds coming down to drink and bathe as the weather was clearing up and it was nice and warm now. There were many Black-winged Snowfinches, Rufous-necked Snowfinch, Brown & Robin Accentors, and several Twite all giving point-blank views. It was such a treat to get close to these birds, as after bathing they flew up onto the grassy bank to sunbathe and didn’t pay much attention to the few of us watching them.

Henri's Snowfinch - a split from White-winged Snowfinch

We then drove up to the pass and scored with our first Henri’s Snowfinches, and several pairs were present showing well. We also had a Tibetan Lark here…..! Then we drove down to Chaka Basin and set out on a walk across the strange desert landscape, and unbelievably we found Henderson’s Ground-Jay quite quickly and were able to watch a group of 3 at leisure. So with that done we walked further and had four sightings of Pallas’s Sandgrouse flying overhead.   

Celebrating the Ground-Jay

Hendcerson's Ground-Jay

What a day!

Koko Nor Lake

Had another crack at the grouse again but they just weren’t around so we set out on the drive up onto the Tibetan Plateau and Koko Nor Lake, seeing our only Eastern Rook along the way. We stopped at the pass called Sun And Moon Mountain (very nice!) to stretch our legs and found our first Ground-tit, as well as White-rumped and Rufous-necked Snowfinches, plus the first of many Plateau Pikas. 

It was midday by now and within the hour we had reached a small town where we had a really great meal in a restaurant. The lake wasn’t far away and before we reached it, a pair of Black-necked Cranes were spotted which prompted a quick exit of the coach to fully admire them in the scope, and we also found Horned Lark here as well. Further on and a Mongolian Lark was seen flying past the coach and away into the distance.

At the lake we saw both Common and Whiskered Terns, flocks of Bar-headed Geese grazing along the shoreline, Ruddy Shelduck and Greylag Geese, Common Redshank, and a flotilla of distant ducks included Tufted Duck.

Hume's Short-toed Lark 

Moving on we walked out to a marshy area, finding Hume’s Short-toed Lark and Isabelline Wheatear nearby. Out on the marsh were lots of Black-necked Grebes and we scoped a loose nesting colony of them a little later. Ducks were much in evidence with Red-crested and Common Pochards, Ferruginous Duck, and a single Mallard. Other species here included Black-winged Stilt, Twite and a large flock of Pale Martins.

So we left here and drove to Heimahe, stopping along the way for a quick walk out in the grassland but apart from many Pallas’s Gulls it was quiet. But what views of the gulls and I cant remember seeing so many, with maybe 50+ littering the shoreline, as well as several closer individuals.

Pallas's Gull

On arrival at Heimahe we walked out into the fields and quickly found several huge Tibetan Larks amongst the smaller and more numerous Oriental Skylarks. There was also a distant Upland Buzzard flying past. A short drive took us to a comfortable hotel for the night, but there was just enough time to scan the open fields from a viewpoint at the back of the hotel where Kevin found a family of Red Foxes playing.