Waking up to dull, overcast
skies and heavy drizzle wasn’t the best start to what turned out to be a superb
day. Must admit I was in two minds as to whether I should change our plans and
not hike up into the Rubber Mountain, but Tang Jun said we should give it some
time and have our packed breakfast near the start of the track. So we did and
it continued to rain whilst we ate, and
we got out of the coach several times and yes, it was easing and getting
brighter. A Rufous-necked Snowfinch raised optimism somewhat, so by the time we
drove the last kilometre to the start of the trail and phaffed around it was
hardly raining so off we went. The walk up to the base of the hills is probably
a couple of kilometres but it took a while as we came across our first Rock Sparrows, Black-winged (Adam’s) Snowfinch, Robin Accentors and a superb Saker.
Then we had to start the trek up into the scrub-covered little side valley, and
up & up we went. The weather was still a bit miserable and it was chilly –
not the best conditions to search for Pink-tailed Finch.
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Pink-tailed Finch... Is it a bunting or a finch...? |
This is one of the star birds
of any Qinghai tour, as it is now in a family all of its own. So the pressure
was on! Anyway, we got to a vantage point where we could scan quite a way and I
fired up the ipod – but nothing. And nothing. And nothing. David walked further
up and thankfully spotted one coming down the valley in response to the call
and a few of us managed to get on it. But somehow it disappeared, so we went up
higher and fortunately it reappeared for another brief appearance. What a
relief! I think it’s true to say everyone wanted more so we walked right up to
the head of the (by now really steep) steep valley and walked over the brow of
the hill, admiring the scenery as it would have been rude not to.
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Pink-tailed Finch Valley |
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You can just see the road in the distance where our coach is parked |
The valley
over the top held more bushes and Neil spotted one way down below us – another
finch that is. We scrambled down and had amazing views of two adults and an
immature bird feeding, bunting-like on the ground between the dwarf bushes. The
views were awesome and it was a real privilege to be this close to such a mega!
However, walking back up the ridiculously steep hillside wasn’t so much fun I
can tell you.
Anyway, we hung around at
the top for a while and had a female Streaked
Rosefinch fly in, and some great looks at the weigoldi Smoky Warblers (really..?) ,
along with Rufous-breasted Accentors
as well. Then we walked down the ridge and followed another valley for a while
but didn’t get anything new, although seeing Ground-tits, Blue-fronted Redstarts,
Kessler’s Thrushes, White-browed Tit and other commoner
birds in such spectacular surroundings was fine!
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Robin Accentor |
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Black-winged Snowfinch |
By the time we had walked
back down to the bus, finding our first Rosy
Pipit along the way, we were ready for lunch and our crew did a fine job in
producing such good fayre.
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Lunchtime... |
As we were sitting along a stream we noticed that
there were many birds coming down to drink and bathe as the weather was
clearing up and it was nice and warm now. There were many Black-winged Snowfinches, Rufous-necked Snowfinch, Brown & Robin Accentors, and several Twite
all giving point-blank views. It was such a treat to get close to these birds,
as after bathing they flew up onto the grassy bank to sunbathe and didn’t pay
much attention to the few of us watching them.
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Henri's Snowfinch - a split from White-winged Snowfinch |
We then drove up to the pass
and scored with our first Henri’s Snowfinches, and several pairs were
present showing well. We also had a Tibetan
Lark here…..! Then we drove down to
Chaka Basin and set out on a walk across the strange desert landscape, and unbelievably
we found Henderson’s
Ground-Jay quite quickly and were able to watch a group of 3 at
leisure. So with that done we walked further and had four sightings of Pallas’s Sandgrouse flying overhead.
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Celebrating the Ground-Jay |
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Hendcerson's Ground-Jay |
What a day!
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