Some
people say that lightning doesn’t strike twice, well this morning proved the
exception as once again Etosha delivered some true magic. We decided against a
pre-breakfast bird walk around the grounds in favour of returning to the spot
where we saw the Leopard yesterday evening, in the hope it had made a kill and
was still in the area. Well, we left at 6.30am as soon as the gates opened and
drove straight there, and were surprised to find that we were totally alone
with no other vehicles in sight. Unfortunately there was no sign of the
Leopard, so drove on to a nearby waterhole where an African Fish-Eagle was perched in a large tree – a nice addition to
our list.
Then Charly took us on a new track and amazingly the same female Leopard was walking through the grass
and bushes and heading towards the track we had just driven along.
I couldn't believe it when we spotted the same Leopard again.. |
So we turned
around and drove back a little way before killing the engine and watched in awe
as it walked out right in front of us and stopped in the middle of the track.
It had seen some Springbok out on
the open grassland off to our right and crouched right down and crawled across
the track with its belly almost touching the floor.
She crawled across the road, keeping low and out of sight of her prey |
It waited for a while,
peering through the grass and out onto the Springbok herd. Then it crept ever
so slowly into the taller grass and out of sight, so we drove forward and
watched this amazing animal as it sat gazing intently at its prey. It
was maybe 8 - 10 metres away at any one time, oblivious to us and we spent a
magical half an hour as it crept parallel to our position and inside the cover
of some taller grass and acacias, and more importantly out of sight of the
other animals.
She sat watching a herd of Springbok for quite a while |
She had obviously not made a kill during the night and was so
intent on watching the herd of animals out on the savannah that we had a very
personal and close encounter without disturbing her at all.
When
she had crept into taller grass we were about to leave a Lion roared from
nearby and we drove back only to find a male walking along the track towards
us. Wow! And he just walked right by us without taking any notice of
us at all. Ok well how can you better this?
The Lion just walked right past us... |
So we drove back for breakfast,
seeing an African Scops-owl at a day
roost and a nice Groundscraper Thrush, before heading out towards Namutoni (where we
would spend 2 nights) in a jeep, with our bags and minibus following on later.
It took several hours to travel the 75 or so kilometres as we checked out
several waterholes and meandered around a series of tracks through ‘the bush’.
At the first a family of Swainson’s Francolins were seen and the male
became very inquisitive as he walked in front of us and hopped up on a dead
tree right beside us – much to close to photograph!
This Groundscraper Thrush was quite confiding in Halali Camp |
This Swainson's Francolin was very close..! |
The
last waterhole we checked before reaching Namutoni had Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove and Long-tailed
Paradise-Whydah – both new for us. It
was wonderful to watch a group of Giraffes
drinking at the pool and a young Spotted
Hyena also came in as well.
This morning was good for birds again and we also
saw our first Marabou Storks, African Jacana and Western Cattle Egrets. Other birds and animals seen included Ostrich, Lappet-faced Vulture, Martial Eagle, Black-backed Jackal, Red
Hartebeest and plenty of others.
Red Hartebeast |
After
lunch we drove to a couple of nearby waterholes where we had more Giraffes
coming down to drink, another Spotted Hyena,
a herd of African Elephants, Greater
Kudu, and other animals. We also had nice views of Gabar Goshawk, Kittlitz’s
and Chestnut-banded Plovers, Wood Sandpiper, Grey-headed Gull, African
Grey Hornbill, a gang of Grey
Go-Away-Birds, Red-billed Spurfowl and Helmeted Guineafowl. Another male Lion was seen striding across an open
area, and he seemed to be following a distant Lioness.
The
Namutoni waterhole was not producing anything this evening, however there were
a couple of Elephants in the tall
grasses along the boundary fence which caused us a bit of a panic as they were
very close indeed and prompted a hasty retreat to the relative safety of our
luxurious cabins!
So
that was our day, another incredible action-packed Etosha adventure.
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