Madagascar Day 4: Iaroka Forest

Well this was the day we’d all anticipated for a very long time…. The day we’d go in search of the most wanted endemic on this island – Helmet Vanga. It was another bumpy 90 minute drive up into the hills before we set off for the day, but within a few minute we were looking at a cracking Rufous-headed Ground Roller calling away from beside the path. 

Rufous-headed Ground Roller

This bird was a master at disappearing, seemingly into thin air, only to reappear at a different spot several metres away. But what a stunning bird! Walking along the wide track we saw Cryptic Warbler quite close, Blue Vanga, Madagascan Spinetail flying over, and a close Madagascan Starling. 

Cryptic Warbler

Madagascan Starling

Walking on thee was Rand’s Warbler singing from the top of a bare tree, Malagasy Green Sunbird and a close Red-tailed Vanga. After a few kilometres the trail dropped steeply down to our right for several hundred metres before becoming a little gentler. We were on a mission and headed along the narrow trail through beautiful rainforest, passing a Madagascan Cuckooshrike before crossing the first of many streams today. 

Red-tailed Vanga

Within another couple of minutes our guide, Thierry, pointed excitedly to a close tree slightly below eye-level and there was a Helmet Vanga sat on a nest about 10 metres away! Wow! No mention had been made that the bird was nailed down to a nest and yet here we were confronted with the most wanted bird of the tour showing incredibly well. I’m not sure what else to say but wow! 

Helmet Vanga baby..!!

And now we had a decision to make as a much tougher walk would take us to an area where Bernier’s Vanga has been seen a few weeks ago but the trail taking you there is quite tough. Some of my group opted to skip this and set of with our main local guide Jean, whilst the rest went with myself and Thierry. Well, it was quite tough….. 32 stream crossings, narrow, barely discernible  trails covered in tree roots and vines, and all for 3 lifers doesn’t quite make it worth it. And no vanga! But a “ticks a tick” as some wise scholar amongst us pointed out.  So we had great looks at Common Sunbird Asity, a perched Greater Vasa Parrot and once back on the main track several hours later, a Stripe-throated Jery. The rest of the group had see Cuckoo-Roller, the jery and the ground roller again.

I must admit the beer tonight tasted all the sweeter and we toasted our stunning victory with Helmet Vanga and hoped our rugby boys would be celebrating in a couple of days as well.